ULTIMATE AFRICA SAFARIS
Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive December 2003 Kenya on High Terror Alert, December 7 2003 Nairobi, Kenya is on a high state of alert following a warning by the US Embassy of a new terrorist threat. The new warnings came just before a visit by the US Health Secretary Mr. Tommy Thompson to Nairobi . In Nairobi this past week Barclays Plaza was evacuated for four hours after the KLM airline office received a phone call saying there was a bomb in the building, Mr. Patrick Kinyua, the head of security for the building, said. Until recently, the building housed the US Embassy Public Affairs office. And a Barclays branch office, also in the CBD, was also evacuated for several hours when the manager received a similar threat. The Minister for Tourism and Information, Mr. Raphael Tuju, confirmed the Government had received information about a threat to two downtown hotels in Nairobi. "We are evaluating it and taking the necessary action," he said. Tuju said it would not be appropriate to comment further. "We have had similar kind of warnings in the past but I don't want to go into the details," he said. The US Embassy sent warnings to all American citizens to stay away from the CBD following what it termed an uncorroborated and anonymous report of a potential terrorist attack. The US embassy spokesman, Mr. Peter Claussen, said American authorities received an anonymous tip detailing terrorist threats aimed at American and Western interests in downtown Nairobi. Embassy officials have already shared that information with Kenyan authorities and have been assured the necessary steps are being taken to counter the threat. A senior police source, while confirming the information of a possible terror attack on hotels, vital installations and embassies, said all sites had been checked and no unusual discoveries had been made. He added that all the installations and premises were currently being guarded. He noted that terrorists do not warn or reveal where they intend to strike, but instead claim responsibility after the act. Kenya has been attacked by terrorists twice. On August 7, 1998, the US embassy was destroyed and 219 people killed in a terrorist bomb attack. In November 2002, a car bomb blew up outside the Paradise Hotel in Kikambala, north of Mombasa, killing 15 people, including three Israeli tourists. Kenyan Government Reassures Tourists, December 7 2003 The Kenyan Government has called for calm following the threats of possible terror attacks in Nairobi. A statement by Tourism Minister Raphael Tuju told tourists coming to Kenya that the Government had reviewed the security situation and confirmed there was no cause for alarm. "Kenya is still a safe destination to be in and to visit. All our systems are on high alert and ready to respond to any threat, real or imagined," Tuju said. In Nairobi last week security was beefed up at all five star hotels and at embassies following the US alert of a possible attack.City Hall Way, adjacent to Inter-Continental Hotel where visiting American Secretary of Health Tommy G Thompson was expected to stay, was blocked to all vehicles. Other hotels were guarded by General Service Unit paramilitary personnel, Administration Police and regular police. But British High Commissioner Edward Clay, in a show of confidence in Kenya's security system, played down the threats and took a leisurely walk in the City streets. He went to The Stanley Hotel, where he took his breakfast and later walked over to Hilton Hotel for tea at 10 AM. Security at the US Embassy and the United Nations offices in Gigiri was intensified. No motorists were allowed to park by the roadside and all vehicles were searched. Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Wilson Airport were under surveillance as were several strategic installations. It has also emerged that Kenya police had prior information about possible terrorist attacks long before last Tuesday's bomb scares. The police said that on getting the information, undercover agents were immediately deployed to guard the possible targets. However, Cabinet minister Kalonzo Musyoka said yesterday the bomb hoaxes in Nairobi should not be used to create the impression that Kenya was at great risk of a terror attack. But the Kenya Police said it was not worried about the current threats of terror attacks. Police Spokesman Mwangi King'ori said the force has had the information about possible attacks all along and has instituted strict measures to counter them. King'ori said they received information, including descriptions of the vehicles that were to be used in the attacks, but it turned out to be a hoax. Robin Pope's Weekly Zambia Update, December 7 2003 Robin and Jo Pope run several very successful safari camps in Zambia. Here is their weekly update: We have seen an aardvark. I use the term "we" loosely as I did not see it unfortunately. Paul was driving back from an evening game drive and came to Robin's Bridge. Being close to camp the guests had already packed up their camera equipment and were anticipating drinks at the bar. Just after crossing there was the aardvark wandering down the road. The guests had a really good view of this rare sight but unfortunately there will be no photographic evidence. Rule no. 1 - keep your camera at the ready until you get to the bar! Another all day picnic this week and Paul took guests to the Nsefu sector. Fortunately they have not had too much rain and so it is great for the guests to be able to visit this part of the park. Highlights of an excellent days game viewing included lion on a buffalo kill and hyena on a dead hippo so quite a productive day for those who are not too squeamish. At one point during the trip Paul stopped and discussed the laying of Jacana eggs - one guest commented that they laid in a very higgledy-piggledy fashion. As you can imagine not a comment that comes up everyday and great hilarity followed when Paul tried to master the phrase. Keyala and Daudi have now joined in and fits of giggles ensue every time one of them attempts to use the saying. We have a pod of hippos in front of camp - not moving much as they have obviously found a good spot and are sticking to it. However, the close proximity has resulted in some spectacular fights with us egging on our favorites from the bar. Whilst watching the hippo the other evening we happened to turn around in time to see two vervet monkeys racing across the grass. One of them obviously upset with the other. However, the one in the lead got the last laugh as the little tearaway chasing him ran headlong into a tree, bounced off stunned and looked rather embarrassed before heading off in the opposite direction. Again in camp we left the office one afternoon to take a look at a family of elephant coming down to drink on the opposite bank. A small crocodile was then spotted and also a monitor lizard. The little croc obviously had eyes bigger than his stomach and made a grab for the lizard only to find that, although he had caught him, he was unable to maneuver him into a position where he could eat him. A larger crocodile who happened to be passing by soon retrieved the lizard in question and showed his friend how it was done. Cheers, Kim Jao Camp Update, December 14 2003 Jao Camp is located in Botswana's Okavango Delta. It is renowned for tremendous accommodations, incredibly kind staff and wonderful wildlife viewing. Here is the camp's November update: The average maximum temperature was 34 degrees and the average minimum 21. Rainfall for the month was 37.25 ml. With the very late rains to this part of the world, the general game viewing on the Jao flood plains has been spectacular with large herds of zebra, wildebeest and approximately 1,000 buffalo moving in from the west to take advantage of the permanent water within the concession. The lion sightings have been frequent and covering the whole concession with the prides alternatively heading east for the lechwe on the floodplains and then west after the herds of plains game. Jao is proud to announce that they have also had three new additions to the floodplain pride in the form of approximately 6 weeks old cubs which were first spotted in the middle of the month. Leopard have been sighted regularly and they suspect that the Jao female has cubs in a palm thicket just off the island. A big male has also been frequenting the island and has become accustomed to the vehicles. A large female cheetah has taken up residence north of Kwetsani and has been sighted often by guests. Guests have been doing a lot of mekoring around the floodplains east of Jacana and over the last 2 weeks a female sitatunga and her lamb were seen just after sunrise on an island close to the mekoro station. The highlight of the month must go to the two pangolin seen on the western floodplain road to Hunda island! The migrants have all arrived and the camp resounds with the sounds of summer in particular the woodland kingfisher and redchested cukoos. The birdlife in the area continues to astound guests both in quantity and quality and all of them depart Jao with a new appreciation for the avian world. Guests have had a lot of dinners under the stars, with the weather being very kind in this regard. The staff singing has once again been a favorite with guests and hardly any questionnaire fails to mention the impact the friendly and caring attitude of the Jao staff. Tanzania Update, December 14 2003 Well, it's been a busy few months. With a small window of relative sanity I can bring you all up to speed on what is happening in our little piece of Heaven. The Osunyai season has now ended, short rains in the Tarangire eco-system brought the migratory herds through camp and along with the resident herds of elephants created a wonderful finale to an exceptional season. The only blip of course was the bush fire that took out all of our service area and some of the other tents! But looking on the bright side the camp was free of guests at the time and with the insurance payment we have been able to re-develop a whole satellite of equipment for the coming season. The fire, which we believe, started as a result of honey poachers to the southeast swept across a huge area of Osunyai as well as a large portion of the National Park causing havoc to many campsites within the park boundaries as well as our own sand river site. Being a positive sort of a company we quickly re-grouped and turned what could have been a painful experience to our advantage increasing the number of game walks guided by Phillip Ashby as the plains game sought out the re-growth that flushed in certain areas within Osunyai. The Migratory herds of wildebeest and zebra have been slow to move south to the short grass plains of the Serengeti and as yet seem to be content with ambling backwards and forwards around the Lobo area and across the border into The Ngaroi which we are happy enough with for the time being however if the short rains do not start in earnest we may be faced with another difficult year for the calving herds. "Barking Brits" It is always a pleasure to welcome back old friends on safari especially ones that enjoy my sense of humour! So when Mark and Lois Gilbert and Robin and Pippa Cecil-Wright returned for their third safari along with 4 new friends I knew it would be a fun time! Marianne came up with the T shirt phrase of "Barking Brits and their unsuspecting friends" which despite the irreverence seemed to fit and so with tongue in cheek the nine of us embarked on safari to the Selous and Serengeti for 12 days of exquisite game viewing. Charles Dobie's camp in the Selous looked after us for that section which proved to be a great choice of location. The service was second to none and the game viewing from boat, open Land Rover and on foot was the best I have ever had in the Selous. Ian McDonald's guiding on foot was of particular note as was the attention to detail and management of the camp by Doug and Gabrielle. I will always remember the first time I watched a herd of elephants crossing the Rufiji River, trunks held high like periscopes for the crossing of the deeper sections watching as the little ones were supported by elder brothers and sisters so when I was privileged to be able to see this again on this safari, not once but three times my F4 camera thought it had arrived in heaven! From the Selous Charles Dobie piloted us himself in a brand new Caravan Cessna 208 for the flight to northern Serengeti where our own camp and crew awaited our arrival. It is always interesting to see another company owner get excited by what he is doing so when asked to fly over Stieglers Gorge we all enjoyed breathtaking views of the Sand Rivers leading up to Stieglers. Later on in the flight we were also treated to great views of Ngorongoro Crater and Oldonya Lengai as Charles went out of his way to give us better views of the caldera and volcano. As usual the welcome glass of bubbly kept the excitement going on arrival into camp and over the following days the excitement was maintained with elephants, lion and serval cat all within meters of our tents. In particular as we headed off for one of the early morning drives a lioness calmly walked towards the kitchen tent intent it seemed on finishing off our fresh croissants and fruit! As a finale Mark Gilbert showed a collection of his paintings produced during the safari, which given that I had kept the program very full amazed everyone at how productive he had been! Horseback Safaris. We are excited to announce that this coming season we will be able to outfit horseback safaris from our Wilderness Camp at The Ngaroi. Janice Beatty, renowned horsewoman (as well as sister in law) will be guiding the horseback adventures, which will include hacks in the early morning, late afternoons and overnight utilizing the Non-Traditional Fly Camp, which is always based at The Ngaroi. The open plains, ridges and acacia lined korongos of The Ngaroi are perfect for hacks and open up lots of new opportunities for exploring this wonderful eco-system. During the recent recce trip we had fabulous sightings on horseback of elephant, buffalo and giraffe so we have high expectations that this program will prove to be as high profile as our other Wilderness programs. The Rift Valley Experience. Dave Armon has created the Rift Valley Experience in response to a growing demand from guests who wish to explore some of the less sedentary ways of enjoying safari here in East Africa. Dave's passion for fitness, hiking and his love of mountain biking have enabled us to offer a number of high fitness expeditions into some of the more remote wildlife areas to be found around the mountains, volcanoes and endless plains of the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire eco-systems. We have a specially designed tented camp that services The Rift Valley Experience, something light weight and stylish as befits the image of our more traditional tented camps allowing us to safari into remote and beautiful areas perhaps overlooking Oldonyo Lengai or Mosonik, two beautiful mountains in the rift valley or in the Ngorongoro Highlands with views towards Mounts Meru and Kilimanjaro. The duration needed for an adventure such as this can be as little as a two-day foray from our main camp or alternatively a full 5-day experience immersing oneself in total freedom. The Rift Valley Experience is as unique as The Great Rift Valley itself set apart from the normality of a regular safari by its need for health and fitness and pure desire to explore remote and exotic game areas. Zanzibar - The Spice Isle After so many years I can't recall I returned with Jo for a short 3 night-4 day stay in Stone town on the island of Zanzibar. The last time I had been on the island there were precious few quality hotels to stay in and the general feeling of Stone town itself was a run-down less than clean reflection of an era lost forever. The contrast when we stepped into our air conditioned Serena Hotel on the edge of the old quarter was not only pleasantly calm and efficient but so far removed from the experience I had on my previous visit that it instantly had me grinning like a fool! Stone town was pleasant, bustling and clean! The peoples we encountered were gracious and friendly and full of life in a way that only an old Arab town steeped in history can be. The Foradhani gardens on the sea front came to life each afternoon in preparation for the daily ritual of socializing and eating freshly caught lobster, prawns and a variety of exotic fish. People in their hundreds started arriving just before sunset to enjoy the last minutes of daylight as the hurricane lamps glowed and as the minarets called people to prayer. One evening as we sat enjoying a cocktail in a waterside bar a vast deep water dhow glided quietly into port momentarily casting a moon shadow across our table, yet another image of Zanzibar that will remain with me forever. There were many things we should have seen and many places we should have visited but Jo and I we were content to soak up the vibrancy of Stone Town and leave the other experiences for a later date! Wildlife Conservation Must Benefit Local Communities, December 14 2003 If villagers do not see how protecting the animals that surround them will help attract tourists and boost the local economy, they will have no incentive to stop killing these animals who sometimes ravage their crops or serve as "bush meat" in lean times. That was the universal message of a recent international symposium on Conservation and Tourism sponsored by the African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) and the Corporate Council on Africa (CCA) in Washington DC. Anne Kent Taylor, the daughter of parents who conducted a world famous safari group, who was reared in Kenya lamented "I don't know how [the people] can be expected to be pro-active in protecting the game if they themselves cannot enjoy it and cannot see the value of it for themselves." But now, she said "the thing we're struggling with more than anything throughout Africa is the commercial bush meat trade. This is quite different from sustainable hunting for feeding families. It's a very serious situation for which no statistics are available." To try to get a handle on the problem in her own small sphere, Taylor helped start a project four years ago that provides anti-poaching patrols in Kenya's Masai Mara where she believes over 20,000 animals are slaughtered by poachers each year. Her project is designed "to get the local community to understand that poachers have been ruining their economic sustainability over the long-term." "When people think of the commercial bush meat trade they think mostly of central Africa with the primates, which Jane Goodall brought to the attention of everybody, but in east Africa we haven't really started focusing on it too much." The perpetrators who kill the animals for bush meat mostly operate in the parks with cruel implements called "snares," which are attached to trees or logs, either trapping the struggling animal on the ground or suspended in the air until the poacher comes by to kill and collect the animal. She described how, working with a local Masai Mara team, she has rescued "giraffes, elephants, and all sorts of different animals who've been caught by these snares. It's very sad because it is indiscriminate. We document all the poaching incidents that have happened. "Part of the project is wildlife rescue but we don't interfere with anything that is not caused by man. Where [the damage] is caused by man, I have a veterinarian who volunteers his time and has permission to work in the Masai Mara. So he flies in and we do whatever rescues we can. The thing I can't do anything about is the elephants who have lost their trunks in these snares. They go down into the ravines and try to eat at the side of the banks; they get down on their knees and graze like a cow. I have heard that other elephants do help them to feed. People who study elephants said that has not been recorded and that not even primates do that, so I'm trying to get pictorial proof that this does happen because I do believe that it would happen." She says she now uses "a local team of Maasai (tribesmen), who are very familiar with the forest, and I have team leaders from Nairobi, who handle the whole project on their own. They're an incredible group of young men." Taylor said that this past year her team "managed eight two-week patrols and it's making a huge difference. We patrol throughout the forests, primarily where the animals go to get water. We pulled out 1,000 snares and that saves that many animals multiplied by about 20 or 30 because each snare catches that many animals." She exhibited a "pretty wicked" snare, having the audience handle the thick twisted wire, adding, "Customs had quite a few questions as to what I was bringing in!" The key to conservation remains the indigenous peoples, those with a stake in the land and animals, who need to understand how the animals can work for them not just as food. So Taylor has sponsored projects such as visits to local schools to do community conservation education, including the planting of trees. Her assistant Ostovar started an art project in one of the schools where he had children paint pictures to be sold and then let them decide how to use the proceeds. They bought water tanks, textbooks and other school supplies and sports uniforms. A big innovation, she said, has been having tour operators take the children and their elders into the parks. "It's very expensive for people to visit the parks," Taylor explained but added that the local people cannot be expected to protect wildlife if they have never enjoyed it and cannot see its value. The tours are a big hit, she said, and the vehicles transporting the schoolchildren have "people on the roof and every which way, and off we go!" Victoria Falls Hotel Update, December 14 2003 Here is a brief overview of the Victoria Falls Hotel's foreign exchange guidelines and discount: The Government of Zimbabwe recently introduced an "incentive rate of exchange" of ZWD800: USD $1 to be used for all foreign currency transactions by the Export Industry. This includes the Tourism Industry. Thus, our rate of exchange at the Victoria Falls Hotel changed from ZWD55: USD $1 to ZWD782: USD $1. The discount which we offer on the total Zimbabwe dollar extras bill for clients who pay in foreign currency is 75% (please note that this amount recently increased from 50% to 75%). An example of how this will work is as follows. A guest checking out is paying using foreign credit card, foreign cash or foreign traveler's checks: Total extras account in ZWD: ZWD 100,000 Less 75 % Marketing Discount: ZWD 75,000 Subtotal in ZWD: ZWD 25,000 Converted into USD using 782:1 USD $32 The 75% discount is not applied to accommodation bills. A guest can pay direct in Zimbabwe dollars at any of our outlets in the hotel but this will not be discounted. Foreign guests can pay for their extras accounts in Zimbabwe dollars on check-out however, they have to produce proof of having changed their money with a reputable Forex dealer. This can be done by producing an official receipt from the dealer. The total amount changed on the receipt must equal or surpass the amount of the hotel bill they wish to settle. This receipt will then be attached to the zero folio for the guest and sent for filing.Please note that Reserve Bank regulations do not allow the hotel to accept Zimbabwe dollars from foreigners without an official receipt or a receipt with a total value that does not cover the bill that the guest wishes to settle. Orient Express Safaris November Update, December 14 2003 Orient Express Safaris (used to be named Gametrackers) are one of Botswana's most luxurious tour operators. Here is their latest update: November has seen the continuance of the rains and this has in turn produced several changes in the vegetation and the animal behavior. Many areas throughout the Delta are now greening up and are attracting a wide diversity of wildlife. This greening process brings about the effect of attracting game away from the dry season (winter) feeding areas. With this process now happening, the areas that were heavily grazed and browsed during the dry season are getting a chance to recover. Eagle Island Camp has had some spectacular sightings in the immediate vicinity of the lodge. One of these sightings includes a lion kill on the floodplain in front of tent one. Eagle Island Camp has also had high numbers of Peters' Epauletted fruit bats roosting in the rafters of the main public areas as well as the trees surrounding these areas. Additionally there have been very good cheetah and lion sightings with the occasional sighting of herds of roan antelope. Savute Elephant Camp has been impressive with repeated sightings over the month of the larger predators, in particular lions and leopards. Khwai River Lodge has had some fantastic sighting of elephant over the past couple of weeks. Herds that range in size up to around 150 individuals have been coming down to drink at the Khwai River. There are also fairly large numbers of hippo congregating in the deeper pools in the vicinity of the lodge (as many as 25 in some areas). With the dry season now gone, the phenomenon where lions prey on elephant in Savute has come to an end. During the dry season it was determined that the Savute lions preyed upon a minimum of 31 individual elephant. This has now become an annual event and is likely to continue in the years ahead. "Birdlife" has been conducting surveys in the Eagle Island Camp area on the wattled cranes. Part of the survey involved night catching of individual birds - something that has not been done in the past. The aim of catching the birds was simply to see if it could be done. Now that they know it is possible, "Birdlife" will be seeking sponsorship from the USA for satellite tracking equipment, which will aid in long distance and long-term tracking. Bird sightings have been especially good as Eagle Island Camp this month. Some of the highlighted species include large flocks of terns, large numbers of squaco herons, slaty egrets and wattled cranes. From a weather point of view, all our camps have continued to receive the characteristic high temperatures associated with this time of year. The rains have continued to fall, although from a regional average, we are still below for this time of year. Chiawa Camp Newsletter, December 14 2003 Chiawa Camp is located on the banks of the lower Zambezi River in Zambia. It is one of Zambia's most popular safari camps offering great wildlife, comfort and endless good times. Here is their latest update: And so ends another safari season in the Lower Zambezi - and what a season it has been - Chiawa's busiest ever! The last few weeks of the season at Chiawa were most interesting - with some great sightings that included two separate aardvark sightings, one at the waterhole right next to camp. The other which Andy found, was particularly noteworthy - whilst he and his blessed guests were watching the aardvark busy snuffling about and seemingly oblivious to the vehicle, an inquisitive lioness heard the potentially tasty meal and started moving cautiously in for a closer look. At this point the aardvark realized what was going on and it dug an unbelievably quick burrow and disappeared completely from view in a matter of seconds. Has anyone else out there heard of aardvarks digging a burrow to escape in such a manner? Another spectacular evening drive turned up 4 leopards in close proximity to each other. However it was the manner in which the leopards were discovered which is even more unusual. Having seen a pair of mating leopards a few kilometer's back, one of our drives was perplexed to find a 6 month old lion cub totally on its own, mewing for the rest of the pride which were nowhere to be seen. It was this mewing which attracted a large female leopard which then commenced a "leopard crawl" stalk towards the cub. Of course everyone in the vehicle was tempted to intervene and rescue the cub however, as is standard practice at Chiawa, the vehicle kept its distance and waited for nature to run its course without any interference. The cub must have smelt or sensed it was in danger as it suddenly charged at full tilt across the lagoon with the leopard in hot pursuit. For a few moments it looked like the cub was done for but it ran into a large stand of adrenaline grass which was hiding its rescuers - the missing 12 lions! So the leopardess turned around and led us to another male leopard which she promptly started flirting with. Would it be boring if all night drives were like that? Whilst on the subject of game viewing, the resident wild dog population had a somewhat traumatic season, losing the first litter or pups and subsequently the Alpha female to disease. Fortunately another female took on the Alpha role and shortly thereafter was heavily pregnant and denning. She gave birth to about 8 pups in July however as a first time mother, lost most of them once they got mobile. At the time of writing only three of this season's pups have survived, about the same number from last year's litter. The good news is that the population is still healthy and viable - indeed - we had about 27 wild dog sightings this season which is a large increase from the phenomenal doggie year of 2002. Unfortunately Kellie Leigh is staying in Australia for most of 2004 to complete her thesis however it is hoped that Conservation Lower Zambezi will be able to continue monitoring the wild dog population for the benefit of the species, and for you! For the anglers, the heaviest tiger (a portly 19lbs) was caught by Barney from England, who was also treated to a spectacular lions-feeding-on-buffalo scene, on the last day that Chiawa was open! Quite a few were also caught in the 14-17lb range however higher than usual water levels this year prevented the fishing from being as frantic as we are used to. The ladies fared very well, usually out-fishing the men, and indeed the largest fish caught at Chiawa this year was a 50lb vundu - well done Anna from Austria! For those of you who don't know, the best fishing months are September-November and all fish are released unharmed! James and Isaac, our ever-smiling and ever-patient fishing guides know all the spots and all the tricks, for expert and novice alike. Robin Pope Safaris Weekly Update, December 14 2003 Robin and Jo Pope are one of Zambia's most respected tour operators. Here is their latest update: Things are green with lots of new leaf growth on the Mopane trees and new shoots of grass but as there has been little rain the river levels have not altered significantly and the ground is still dry. There are plenty of looming rain clouds and thunder rumbling around so I am sure it will not be long until the rains arrive properly. We witnessed an amazing double rainbow yesterday with really strong colors and two complete arches. As yet no pot of gold though! Meanwhile guests have been enjoying game drive opportunities to the full and last week Jacob even managed a day drive and picnic up to the Nsefu sector with lovely sightings including a large herd of eland and painted snipe. This will probably be the last visit this year, as the roads will soon become impassable. Drives around the Nkwali area continue to produce some excellent sightings particularly of prides of lion and large herds of elephants. Two magnificent large maned male lions conveniently killed a waterbuck right next the road, which provided exciting viewing. The wild dogs are "back in town" but as yet we have not seen them. However, 22 were reported to have been at Lupunga Spur this weekend and Simon is gnashing at the bit to go out and find them, so hopefully we might be able to report further details on the pack soon. On the birding front the most exciting sighting recently has been the arrival of the ever-elusive Angola Pitta (now known as the African Pitta). It was spotted by Ruben, our famous "projects manager", a couple of hundred meters outside camp but as yet I have not been lucky enough to see it. Simon, Keyala and myself went out on Saturday night to do surprise sundowners for guests who were leaving the next day. We watched the most spectacular sunset - a beautiful range of colors from fuchsia pink through to burnt orange, sipped our chilled champagne and were serenaded by hippos - not a bad way to spend an evening! Preparations for Christmas are underway. Starting with a hunt for suitable Christmas tree - not an easy task in the middle of the Zambian bush! Have a good week - Shanie South African Airways Phasing in Airbus Aircraft, December 14 2003 South African Airways is phasing in A340-600 Airbus on their New York and Atlanta routes. The longest plane in the world the Airbus has been selected for its superior cabin configurations, fuel efficiency during long haul flights and superior safety. As of Spring 2004 SAA will launch daily nonstop service between New York and Johannesburg, South Africa. The Atlanta hub will retain its four departures to Johannesburg and 3 to Cape Town. In terms of service SAA will offer a new Premium Business Class featuring 180 degree lie flat seats and an enhanced economy class. Chitabe Camp November Report, December 21 2003 Chitabe Camp is located on the border of Botswana's famed Moremi Reserve. Here is the camp's latest update: Although cooler than last month, November remained hot with increased humidity due to impending rain clouds. The camp was engulfed by a few large sand storms during the last four weeks. These tended to be followed by large lightening storms. Of the rainfall there were two heavy periods where over 15 mm were recorded in a short space of time. Sporadic evening showers were responsible for the rest of the rain. Average Maximum Temperature: 42 Average Minimum Temperature: 22 Total Rainfall: 32 mm Following on from last month's wonderful sightings (which included rhino), November has been just as exciting for guides and guests. A highlight in the past at Chitabe has been the big herds of buffalo. More than a few times this month we were blessed with an awe inspiring sight of a herd of over 1,500 strong making their way in front of the main camp. This enabled us to watch some interesting interactions between the buffalo and the Chitabe lion pride right on our doorstep! The four male lions in the coalition have been exerting their claim over the pride as they settle in to their role as leaders. Two of them have been mating with a number of different females to the extent that even the most prude of guests could not resist a peek at the action. We are keeping our fingers crossed that lionesses have gained some experience from their previous and largely unsuccessful attempts at rearing young. Its not only main camp which has been seeing all of the action. Two females pulled down a young zebra at the waterhole just in front of Chitabe Trails and continued to fight over the carcass. The lions share of the kill was not decided by the dominate female but a much larger species. An elephant bull arrived out of no where and noisily charged straight at the lions causing them to drop the zebra and take cover in the long grass. Releasing the kill for a trio of lionesses waiting on the sidelines. We watched the pair continue to cower in the reeds until the bull moved away proceeding with his journey leaving all of us gazing on to ponder both incredible displays of power. Elephants have always been a big part of everyday life at Chitabe and elephant are often found feeding on the island in between the tents. Such regular exposure to these animals did not make the following sighting any less magical, in fact maybe even more the opposite? A breeding herd of approximately 300 moved silently from the forest up the channel which runs parallel to both camps. Guides, guests and managers watched from the dining room over their breakfast as the elephants proceeded past. They continued on to the top of the island where they were suddenly spooked (the wind changed, we believe picking up the sent of the lions sleeping in the reeds). Lost for words we watched the incredible transformation from gentle giants to a formidable force as the elephants, trumpeting loudly, ran back in to the cover of the trees. Although the whole episode probably lasted just 20 minutes it was definitely one of those memories that will stay with those that observed it for a long time. Wild dogs (our logo species at Chitabe) continued to keep a high profile this month. Since leaving their dens, the pups from both the Mogogelo and Moonstone packs have provided endless entertainment for all as they continue to run circles around and over the adults during play. This has proved beneficial in developing their stamina as the pups whilst heading out on hunts have been able to keep up with the pack with seemingly little effort. But as life goes in the bush, every up has a down. Sadly, a female from the smaller Sandibe pack which frequents this area was killed by some of the other dogs right on the edge of our concession. The exact reasons behind this behavior are currently being explored by the Wild Dog Researchers. Back to the big cats, both cheetah and leopards have been spotted regularly (no pun intended). A close up sighting was provided by a very relaxed young leopard who chose to get comfy in the sausage tree above Main Camp's tent number one. Other predators such as hyenas and jackals often remind us of their presence, when they stop to return the gaze of guests having bush sundowners. General game has been very concentrated around the immediate vicinity of the camp as the water has been visibly drying up every day - only to be topped up by the rainfall. Good sightings of relaxed groups of giraffe and zebra have been had. The first species to drop young were the tsessebe followed a week later by the impala. Since the first rains many more species have been reappearing after keeping a low profile. As no creature should really be left out of this update: the reptiles, amphibians and insects have held many guests who came to this continent primarily for the "Big Five" equally as captivated. One such incident was played out this morning in the lounge entrance way when two skinks were so engrossed in a territorial dispute they carried on oblivious to the arrivals and departures going on around them Its that time of year again when one of the dominant sounds is the call of the woodlands kingfisher. The call is later surpassed by the night sounds of the many Scops owls we have roosting in camp. One species which seems to be getting most of the attention from other seasonal visitors to the island is a pair of paradise flycatchers who are busy building its nest in one of the trees which burnt down last year. Robin Pope Safaris Weekly Update, December 21 2003 Robin and Jo Pope are one of Zambia's most respected tour operators. Here is their latest update: Well, we can now confirm that the rains have definitely arrived! Our quiet and peaceful Sunday afternoon turned into soggy chaos when the heavens opened and proceeded to dump 60 millimeters (just over 2 inches for those non-metricated) of rain on us in a period of 25-30 minutes. All in all we had 75 millimeters yesterday afternoon, evening and into the night. Although the rain may have caused chaos in camp, it brought all creatures great and small to life. The nuptial flight of the winged termites, or 'flying ants' as they are known here, took place after the heavy downpour and the place was soon overrun with the termites. A large variety of frogs and toads came out of their hiding places to enjoy the rain and the pre-Christmas feast that was laid on by the termites!! I even saw a Vervet monkey sitting above one of the lights in camp, way past it's bedtime, catching the flying ants that were congregating around the light. Our guests were quite amazed by this African thunderstorm even if it did cancel their afternoon drive. One of the guests who is with us right now is an old friend of Robin's and was the person who actually sold Robin his first vehicle when he opened Tena Tena 18 years ago. I'm afraid our Christmas tree hunt failed. Shanie and I had planned to go out yesterday afternoon but our trip was ruined by the downpour - tomorrow is the day! As I sit here and write this we are being driven crazy by the constant calling of the red-chested cuckoo. Last year it was the emerald cuckoo that was calling constantly above the office, looking for a mate. I hope the red-chested cuckoo finds a mate.......SOON!! Have a good week.Cheers, Simon P.S. Paul has just returned from game drive having just seen 15 wild dogs - very happy guests. Robin Pope Safaris Weekly Update, December 28 2003 Robin and Jo Pope are one of Zambia's most respected tour operators. Here is their latest update: Shanie has been putting up the decorations in the bar, including the Christmas tree. This is no tree - a thin branch from a bush that Marcus spent an afternoon spaying gold and silver. And voila! We have a Christmas tree. The kitchen is in full swing making brandy butter, mince pies and other goodies. It is hot hot hot today and the sky is blue and the bush very green. So really quite hard to get the feel of Christmas despite all the activities. The carols on the bridge usually start it off for me. Yesterday morning we said goodbye to an English family that had spent a week at Robin's House.It had been a organized by the father and was a total surprise for the rest of the family. There had been a few rather anxious emails about whether there would be enough to do for a week. They loved it all and when I asked how much they had used the swimming pool - the response was "when are we supposed to have the time!" During the rains, with only Nkwali open, our guests do spend more time here and so we are able to get past the traditional drives and walks and do some different activities. They spent a morning walking in the Chendeni Hills. It was to be followed by fishing at Tundwe Lagoon but a huge storm was approaching and so it was decided to dash back to camp. But not in time! They were soaked. The morning at Kawaza was a huge success - as always. And Robin and I took them to the salt pans 40 minutes behind Nkwali - through lovely cathedral mopane trees. We found a group of 6 Arnot's Chats - unusual to see them together like that and a forked tailed drongo dive bombing a flustered pearl spotted owlet. The all day drive with a picnic ended up being 14 hours! It included lots of time spent at a lagoon painting, chatting, playing games. The cats had been thin on the ground for a few days and we were getting concerned. Well on the drive they saw a pride of lions and 2 leopards - including a daytime view of a leopard stalking impala. Wonderful. The final sundowners with us all on the sandbank island infront of camp was a great ending to the safari. Finally....the red chested cuckoo continues to call, night and day and we wonder if he will ever find a mate! Have a wonderful Christmas, with your friends and family. All the best - Jo Ndutu Safari Lodge Update, December 28 2003 Ndutu is located on the southern border of Tanzania's famed Serengeti National Park. Here is the lodge's latest update: The wildebeest are here! Over the past couple of weeks we have received a good amount of rain and the Ndutu area is now green once again. Yesterday there were huge herds of wildebeest out on the Makau Road, the Marsh areas were also teeming with wildlife. Return to Weekly Update Archive |
