ULTIMATE AFRICA SAFARIS
Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive January 2004 Meikles Hotel Voted Zimbabwe's Best, January 4 2004 Harare's five-star Meikles Hotel has been named best hotel in Zimbabwe in the 2003 World Travel Awards which were announced recently in New York. The World Travel Awards are presented annually by the World Travel Group, a leading publishing house with a number of travel and tourism publications in its stable. Voting for winners is undertaken by 80,000 travel agencies across the world and winners are named in country and continental categories. This year's presentation ceremony was the 10th annual announcement of the prestigious awards. Meikles Hotel, which recently won the Association of Zimbabwean Travel Agents award for best city hotel in Zimbabwe for the 11th year in succession, was named best hotel in Zimbabwe and commended for its standards of service and overall contribution to travel and tourism in Zimbabwe. "This is a significant award and is a positive recognition of the hotel's ongoing effort to maintain its status as the country's premier hotel," said Meikles Africa Hotels' chief executive officer Roy Meiring. "We are particularly delighted to be in the company of a large number of the world's best-known and most important hotels in their own country categories, as well as in the continental standings." Meikles Hotel, which is part of the Meikles Africa Hotels group, will celebrate its 90th anniversary in 2005, marking nearly a century of operation and service to the local community and to travelers from across the world. It is a leading destination for many business travelers and conference organizers, as well as tourists travelling to Zimbabwe. Cape Town's Mount Nelson Hotel, which won the overall best South African hotel award, was named best hotel in Africa. Other leading country winners included names such as Chobe Chilwero Lodge (Botswana), Hotel Cardoso (Mozambique) and the Royal Livingstone (Zambia). Note: Ultimate Africa Safaris consultants have visited all of the African hotels, lodges and camps noted above and we wish to highlight that the award is for best hotel - not lodge or camp. In many cases there are lodge and camp properties in each country that easily outdo the hotel winners in terms of quality, service and experience. Victoria Falls Currency Update, January 4 2004 For travelers visiting Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe here is an update on the currency situation. There is a severe shortage of foreign currency in the country. The official exchange rate in Zimbabwe is approximately Z$800 to US $1. All the bureau de changes have been closed and hotels are no longer able to change money for guests. All currency conversion transactions are now carried out by the banks at the official exchange rate only. There is a black market but it is illegal. Anyone caught changing money on the black market can be jailed. At hotels guests are asked to settle their "extras" account in foreign currency, either by cash, traveler's check or credit card. Hotels are generally offering a "discount" of up to 75% on these "extras", to enable their residents to enjoy a favorable exchange rate. For shopping, or paying for activities in Victoria Falls, "cash is king". Guests should bring US$ cash. US$ traveler's checks are accepted at reputable curio shops for payment of goods and they offer a better exchange rate than the banks. So guests should shop with US$ cash. In fact there is no real reason why tourists should acquire Zimbabwe dollars. We also recommend that visitors complete a declaration form on entry into the country stating how much currency they are carrying, and get this stamped by an official. This form should remain with them throughout their stay in case they need to show it to any officials at a later date. Star of Africa Zambia Update, January 4 2004 Star of Africa is one of Zambia's leading tour operators with an wonderful circuit of high end safari properties. Here is their latest update: With the arrival of the rains in Zambia, the grounds around Sussi and Chuma Lodge at Victoria Falls have exploded into a kaleidoscope of colors, with animals, birds and insects enjoying the refreshing change. At Lochinvar Park the migrant birds are now back and should stay through to the end of the rainy season. Bird sightings have been incredible with huge flocks of 100's and 1,000's of birds at a time. On the Lower Zambezi at Kulefu here is a wonderful diary excerpt written by Andrew and the team as they left the camp and the Lower Zambezi area early November - "Down and around "Sandy Hairpin bend" through "Small Croc Dambo" and up and under the vast canopy of winter and umbrella thorns, into and then out of the river crossing, along the dry river bed and through the clear shallow channel for the last time this season! As the sun rose up through the Mpata Gorge, slowly stretching out its fingertips across the Chikwenya Plains mixed emotions were shared amongst us at as we said goodbye to our "home" and looked forward to time with our loved ones. A familiar female leopard draped over a low lying branch of a sausage tree at "Tree T Junction" gazed over at us, and we bid our farewells. Through the Chikwenya River and up out of the flood plains we continued, and then……. a loud cheer!!! Up ahead, on the road, surveying the Jeki Plains lay our 3 resident male lions, "Casanova", "Blackie" and "Scar". We met for the final time this season and found it difficult to say goodbye to the lions whom we had grown to know so well. For six months the animals of this magnificent "Far Away Place" will have it all to themselves, undisturbed. What a wonderful season it has been, filled with life long memories. We look forward to what surprises the lower Zambezi has in store for us next year. Tizaonana!!" At Chichele Presidential Lodge in South Luangwa Mark reports: "We have had a good November - the first month of rains in the Valley with the green season setting in. Whilst it has been very hot during the day game viewing has been very good in the early morning and after dark - one amazing sighting was twenty two wild dogs spotted by clients earlier on in the month. Guests having dinner at Chichele have been treated to great game viewing, including lions chasing impala across the lawn and elephants drinking from the swimming pool! At nearby Puku Ridge, also in South Luangwa, the team reported: "As the rains of the green season begin Puku Ridge is being transformed. The trees that began to show signs of life in the October heat are now green and full. The flood plain is also coming alive with the new grass growing rapidly. This has attracted impala and puku during the day and hippo at night. The Luangwa River is still very low and over dinner one can hear the hippos, often fighting over their shrinking territory. The river will not be in full flood until late February after the waters have flowed down from the Nyika Plateau and beyond and by March the flood water will flow into the Puku Ridge plain, creating a very different scene. Hyena, lion and leopard can also be heard after dark and their stealthy approach is often given away by the shrill whistle of a puku or the bark of a baboon. The larger predators are often spotted by guests on the night drives, as well as the smaller characters such as the white tailed mongoose, civet and genet. During the day the wildlife seen around Puku Ridge has included Thornicrofts giraffe, elephant, lion, magnificent kudu bulls and small groups of buffalo bulls beyond breeding age, known in the local language as Kakuli." Orient Express Safaris Update, January 11 2004 Orient Express Safaris are one of Botswana's leading luxury tour operators. Here is their latest update: December was a good month. Wildlife sightings at all the camps have been very good and the bush is looking great after all the rain. Khwai River Lodge and its' surrounding area is looking very good. Sightings have been on average good, although the high amount of dense foliage has made viewing some wildlife a little tricky. Savute Elephant Camp has had a very good month, both from a weather point of view and from game sightings'. Out of all the camps, Savute experienced the most rain and temperatures have been fairly moderate.Sightings from the area have been outstanding, with predators being seen on a daily basis. Of specific interest in Savute was a sighting of a hippo at Buffalo Pan. Hippo spoor is seen on occasion in the Savute area, however actual sightings are very rare. This hippo spent two days in the area and then disappeared again. At Eagle Island Camp water activities have been replaced by game viewing from vehicles which resulted in wonderful sightings. Vegetation wise in Savute is looking extremely lush. Most of the trees in the area have now come into flower, with the yellows and whites of the Acacia species dominating the views. The Savute marsh is now totally covered in grass and is a magnificent green. The characteristic dry and barren Savute has now been transformed into a paradise with amazing beauty. In both the other camps the vegetation is looking lush and the grass layer has developed very well, with a high level of "sweet" grasses now coming though and attracting a variety of grazers. Mammal wise Savute Elephant Camp has as usual for the time of the year had some very interesting and spectacular sightings. One that deserves particular mention was a lion that attacked and killed an adult wild dog in close proximity to the camp. Although the two species do not necessarily compete directly for prey and other resources, there is an inherent dislike for each other - to the extent that both species will take every opportunity that presents itself to attack and kill the other. Interestingly, the large migrating herds that are common at this time of year have not yet appeared in the Savute area. Khwai River Lodge has had increased leopard sightings in comparison to the past month and has also enjoyed some regular sightings of large buffalo and elephant herds. Lion have also been fairly active in the vicinity of the camp, with one kill being in front of tent 14. Eagle Island Camp has had an increase in lion sightings - several of these involving buffalo being attacked and killed. Large buffalo herds have been common in the vicinity of the camp and this has possibly been the reason why lions are preying on them on a regular basis (buffalo are possibly the most common food source at present). On the birding front with the low water levels and the restriction of activities at Eagle Island Camp, fewer reports of water-based birds have been reported over the past month. Non-the less, there have been some fantastic sighting at all camps. At Khwai River Lodge guides have identified a pair of breeding ground hornbills and have also tracked down their nest and have been monitoring the development of the young chicks. Eagle Island Camp has had good sightings of Green pigeon, Wattled Cranes, swamp bou-bou's, paradise flycatchers and Pels' fishing owl. African skimmers are still in the area - nesting on the ever-increasing sandbanks. Reptile wise tortoises have been regularly sighted in all the camps with the rain continuing to fall. As for other reptiles, the only other regular sightings have been of skinks and lizards. Snakes have been almost non-existent.One of these sightings was of a leopard that had caught a large python and was busy eating it. Temperatures this past month have been averaging around the high twenties and low thirties in the whole area. Some good rains have fallen, however they have on average been very isolated. Maun (and immediate surrounds) experienced some very good rains, with the most significant rainfall being on January 1, 2004, where 100+ millimeters of rain fell in a seven-hour period. Rocktail Bay Update, January 11 2004 Rocktail Bay is located on South Africa's eastern coast just south of Mozambique. Rocktail Bay offers South Africa's best scuba diving (also some of the world's finest). Here is an update from the only lodge in the area - Rocktail Bay Lodge: Rocktail Bay - wonderful corals, warm water, lots of underwater activity and a great dive team. But most important of all, we have an area of about 40km of pristine coastline and ours is the only boat along this entire stretch! The reefs are all pristine and immaculate. December was a wonderful end to a fantastic year. Sunny skies, warm water, flat seas - who could ask for more? Gogo's has been the site to dive this month. Over and above the normal breathtaking corals and fish life we had three special sightings this month. The first sighting was a leatherback turtle seen by divers whilst on the dive, rather than at the surface where we occasionally see them. The next exciting moment was when we encountered a 2.5meter brindle bass in Tyson's (the resident potato bass) territory. This fish was golden brown in color and very inquisitive, coming right in to the divers with Tyson in close attendance. Funny enough he did not seem to be too worried about the intrusion into his territory. The very next dive Darryl and Leza stayed down and low and behold a beautiful sailfish swam by. It was approximately 25kg and it displayed its sail and brilliant colors before moving off into the distance. Just proves, the dive is never finished until you get back on the boat! The bottlenose dolphins have certainly been in a festive mood this month, we have seen them on 10 different occasions, often chasing garfish on the surface. Whilst on a dive at Elusive we could hear a consistent buzzing which Darryl told us was a pod of approximately 200 spinner dolphins that were a bit further out to sea. The dolphins have been exceptionally playful this month. Hang Ten has a lovely little cave area where 2 cave bass hang out, each weighing approximately 6kg. Every time we dive there we notice them, that is until Darryl noticed the resident potato bass with an enormous stomach and a tail protruding from his mouth! There were 2 cave bass and now there is only 1! Other sightings of great interest on Hang Ten have been big schools of squid. It is normally hard to get close to squid as they are very quick and normally jet off the moment you get too close, these however do not move away and we have discovered why. Clive saw a couple of squid close to a rock on the sand and spotted one moving in and out of the ledge. On investigation he found white egg sacs attached to the bottom of the ledge. In summer this little reef also attracts a large number of rays, marbled electric, brown stingrays, black marbled ribbon-tail ray and the beautiful honeycomb rays. There is also a sand shark, which is often seen out across the sand. Towards the end of the month we had a wonderfully exciting dive at Elusive. We were just over half way through our dive time as we made our way through the gully that leads out to the seaward section of the reef. As we rounded the corner we saw a couple of cobia, then more and more. They were all playing around the sand, circling and coming in close to look at us. There were approximately 20 in total. Down on the sand we saw their traveling companion, a huge ray. We spent the remainder of our dive watching this spectacle until the ray darted off, followed by his entourage. The reason they are always together is that as the ray forages in the sand he disturbs crabs and other morsels for the cobia to feed on. A new find this month - Aerial reef! This little reef is situated slightly north of Pantry and we decided to check it out. Darryl told us the shape of the reef and where to head and off we went. As we descended we were amazed, the reef started on a built up area with goldies milling around above the reef and sprats in the mid water with some lovely black tip kingfish waiting to pounce on them. More potato bass - another three! Just as curious as all the others we have encountered. Life all around - big rays, eels, turtles. It's going to be exciting to explore this reef thoroughly. This time of year we expect to start seeing the female ragged tooth sharks, last season they arrived on December 18. We have been checking the cave area behind Island Rock where they gather during their pregnancy to rest. They have not yet arrived but have been sighted south of us at Quarter Mile Reef in Sodwana. They could arrive any day now - something else to look forward to in January. Hoping that the later they arrive the longer they will stay. A final farewell to the year on December 31 when we saw a humpback whale sailing, with it's tail out of the water - a fitting end to a wonderful year! Wishing you and your families all the best for 2004. Darryl, Clive and Michelle The Rocktail Bay Dive Team Wildebeest Migration Refresher, January 11 2004 Everyone always wants to know about the wildebeest migration so here is a refresher: The Serengeti National Park, the Maasai Mara Game Reserve, and surrounding game reserves and game controlled areas form a complete ecosystem that sustains a very large biomass. The major players in the annual movement of an incredible body of animals are the noisy clown of the plains, western white bearded wildebeest or gnu (1.5 million), the Burchell's or plains zebra (200,000), delicate and tiny Thomson's gazelle (500,000). In addition many other animals move within the eco-system, such as the Grants gazelle and the lumbering giant of all antelope the eland. Contrary to popular opinion the predators do not follow the migration very far because they have to bring up young in their territories and home ranges and could not afford the close care and attention their helpless young need in the first months after birth if they were always on the move. Nonetheless the massing of game for any period of time signals a time to eat as much as possible while the stocks are present and kills are easier to observe. The annual "go-around" in search of grazing and water is not always predictable as rainfall patterns vary from year to year. In the next few months we anticipate the main body of the migration will be moving and massing on the Serengeti short grass plains. During the early rains massing starts as the grass and herbs of the mineral rich Serengeti short grass plains can support a very large number of animals and in a relatively small area 1,000,000 wildebeest may be found. The area was covered in rich volcanic ash about 3.5 million years ago as the volcanoes of the Ngorongoro highlands were at their most active. Thus the Olduvai, Ndutu and Naabi areas will be best until about May. In February most of the calving takes place with 90% of the calves born on the short grass plains within three weeks. This creates a glut for the predators but means many more ungulates survive than would from year round birth. Calving starts early in the day and finishes at about noon to allow the precocious young to gain strength before nightfall. They can run in as little as three hours and within three days the main predator the spotted hyena just will not bother with a sustained chase of a calf. As the rains diminish the grazing becomes sparse and standing water dries up. There is a gradual movement to the better watered northwest, west and north. Rutting is a phenomenon that is almost as remarkable as when the calving begins. Approximately 750,000 female gnu are serviced by about quarter of a million bulls in a frantic time of defending moving territories and rounding up passing females. The noise the bulls make is incredible and goes on day and night as bull challenges bull and as dominant bulls see off would be suitors of the lovely lady wildebeest. The sound has been likened to the sound of a million croaking bullfrogs and from a distance it sounds like the rumble of breaking waves on a distant reef. Later in the year lines of migrating animals form as the massing phase ends and there is an urgency to move on away from the short grass plains (sometimes 40 km lines of walking and cantering wildebeest can be seen). As the game enters the western corridor from June to August the main body starts the perilous crossing of the Grumeti river running the gauntlet of giant crocodiles awaiting their annual feast. The move into the Maasai Mara is usually complete by July. At the end of each year the wildebeest once again move south into Tanzania to the short grass plains of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation area. Maasai Mara Tourism Drops by 66% over 8 Years, January 18 2004 Kenya's Maasai people, who depend on tourists visiting the Maasai Mara Game Reserve, are facing big challenges after a dramatic fall in wildlife numbers. Visitors were already staying away due to fears of terror attacks, poor infrastructure and bad land management. For years the animals and the Maasai have lived in harmony with their surroundings, but in the dispersal areas on the outskirts of the reserve, competition for land is increasing. In the last 10 years, poaching, population growth and overgrazing have led to a 43% fall in the amount of wildlife found in the buffer zones. Conservationists say changes are needed, but it is going to take a fundamental shift in the thinking of the local people. Cows are the most important animal in the Maasai culture - they depend on them for everything. Their milk and blood are used for food, their hide is used for mattresses and their dung is used to plaster the walls of their huts. But there are too many cows in too many areas of the Maasai Mara and they are tipping the balance of a very delicate ecosystem. Conscious of the impact this is having on tourist figures in their area, the Maasai people of Lemek-Koyiaki are planning a new way forward. Their land, which spans 149,000 hectares, is owned and managed by over 500 Maasai families. In recent months, they have all signed up to new land management scheme which will revolutionize the way the area is run. Daniel Muli, a junior elder who collected the signatures, says it is the start of a more professional management scheme they hope will make the difference. "It won't be easy to give up our livestock," he said. "Cows are our tradition and we won't give them up. But we have decided we need to make changes. We have agreed to divide the land for the future benefit of the area. We will have a livestock zone and a wildlife and tourism zone and the two will be run separately. Tourism is our future. It is a vital source of income." Every three months, each Maasai family in Mr. Muli's province gets an equal share of the park fees collected. They know that without the changes they have signed up to their money will slowly dwindle. Ron Beaton, who has managed a lodge on the outskirts of the reserve since 1986, says tourism figures are a third of what they were eight years ago. Mr. Beaton believes that eventually the Maasai will go one step further than the land management scheme they have agreed and privatize the management of their land entirely. "I think privatization will come to the group ranches in the dispersal areas," he said. "We have seen it work in the reserve in the last two years. But it is not something that can be done overnight. You are dealing with an old generation that basically don't understand tourism and they still wield a lot of power under the cultural system. But the younger generation understand that good management and good economics is going to benefit them." The Maasai look enviously towards the Mara conservancy - an area of the reserve privatized two years ago. Here park fees, that were previously siphoned into the wrong hands, are being re-invested in the infrastructure of the park. The head of the non profit consortium that runs the conservancy, Brian Heath, has a great deal to be proud of. "The fundamental changes since we took over have been the improvements to the infrastructure. The roads and the security and the rangers are now paid and better organized. "We have seen a dramatic reduction in poaching. We have caught over 250 poachers over the last year and that has made a difference to animal numbers," he said. According to Mr. Heath, "the reason this works is that the council are prepared to reinvest in their resources. They put back 36% of the gate revenue that is collected into managing the park which doesn't happen anywhere else in the Mara." But if privatization is to work here, it has to have the support of the Maasai leaders and it must be run by Maasai people. Too often they have been exploited and forgotten - to the detriment of both the land and the wildlife. Young leaders like Jackson Ole Looseyia say it will only happen if future generations are given the opportunity to go to school - instead of being sent to look after the cattle - and are allowed to take control. "We cannot stay behind as the rest of Kenya is moving forward. We need our young men to be running our districts. We need children to be better educated, we need politicians, we need forward thinking chiefs who can make changes. "And most importantly we need parents to understand the benefits of education and what it can mean to our future here. There is a move in that direction - but a lot of people here still depend on their cows and their sons to guard them." Around the campfires in the Maasai villages one senses a renaissance is indeed under way. It needs to happen quickly though - not only for the future survival of the wildlife but also the tourism industry on which the Maasai depend. Kenyan Tourism Still Declining, January 18 2004 According to the Kenyan Tourist Board no significant improvement is expected in Kenya's tourism industry this year. The board's chairman, Mr. Raymond Matiba, said the effects of travel advisories issued by Britain and the US last year had not been overcome. Matiba said charter flights that bring in tourists have not resumed. However, he added, there was hope that they would start again in February. "If this does not happen, then we will be stuck with minimal arrivals." The US and Britain warned their citizens against visiting the Kenya following escalating fears of terrorist attacks. The UK has since lifted the embargo, but the US has not yet done so. Industry sources say the UK advisory dealt the industry a devastating blow because Kenya receives a large number of tourists from Britain and Germany. Meanwhile, although Kenya has been left out of the global cruise ship itinerary this year, a new cruse liner - MV Crystal Serenity - arrives in Mombasa on March 26. The vessel, on a round-the-world cruise, will be in the country for two days. Its last port of calling on the Indian Ocean will be Cape Town, South Africa. "Although we have not been included in the calendar for large ships, we will continue receiving smaller cruise liners," said Matiba. Rekoro Camp Update, January 18 2004 Rekoro Camp is a wonderful tented camp in Kenya's Masai Mara Reserve. Here is their latest update: The Mara is very dry - totally the opposite to last year when we were under water in December. It is hopefully building up for some rain in January to produce grazing for the Mara herbivores and see them through to the April long rains. This is our warm time of the year with temperatures soaring to 29 degrees Celsius during the days but still cool at night 18 degrees Celsius. At 1800 meters above sea level temperatures do not vary tremendously at Rekero which is 3 degrees south of the Equator. The lion prides around the tented camp have all had cubs which vary in age from 4 weeks to 4 months. Marauding nomadic males have killed some of the cubs - natures way of giving these nomads a chance to implant their genes on prides that are not adequately protected by resident dominant pride males. A few light showers that fell over the full moon locally around camp have brought in most of the herbivores from the conservation area into the reserve and the resident Loita herds of Wildebeest are still very much in evidence, crossing and recrossing the Mara and Talek rivers, whilst the main migration is back in the Serengeti. Warthogs all have piglets growing rapidly and providing tasty hors d'oeuvre for the big cats. A pregnant zebra was killed by the resident lion pride close to camp yesterday and a big herd of over 400 buffalo are grazing the glades along the Talek river. The female leopard and her two 5 month old cubs are doing well upriver. The majority of our guests on at least one of the mornings in camp go out to walk in the area of Oltekitek Gorge. These walks have produced some interesting sightings on foot including an ardwolf, klipspringers, lion, plenty of other large mammals and raptors. An early dawn departure to walk or game drive followed by a picnic breakfast in the bush is very popular. The Gorge is also a good area to see the double toothed barbet and stone chat. In camp we now have two pairs of blue fly catchers most active around the breakfast table. Recently a local Masai killed a large python close to Rekero Cottages. Inside it was a partly digested goat. Rarely does one see these big constricters and I felt saddened by the snakes demise. It has also been very dry at the cottages and the area around the cottage water holes is beginning to resemble a battlefield with the large groups of elephant coming to the water on their daily pilgrimage. This morning we watched a day old elephant calf at the water hole that seemed to have an injured foot and under the protective care of two females was hobbling around pathetically.If it is to survive, being an elephant it probably has a better chance than other species. We thought of trying to rescue it and send it in to Daphne Sheldricks Orphanage but decided that if an attempt was made we would probably have to tranquilize both females and could end up losing one of them. Loisaba Wilderness Update, January 18 2004 Here is an update from the spectacular Loisaba Wilderness in Kenya: Oh to be in a private wildlife sanctuary far from the madding crowd and constant stress! Well, take a break, go on spoil yourselves - come and spend your day in the wilds of Loisaba where we don't have the smog and such, but a pure jewel - just a little quiet wilderness in the midst of no-where! Our wildlife sightings have been tremendous, which is always frustrating since many of you have missed out by remaining on your foreign shores, although several have braved the "travel warnings" and have had it all to themselves! Can you imagine watching lions, leopards, wild dogs, cheetah, elephants, elephant up a tree (yes - you read that right too), owls with genet cat, honey badgers, perhaps not all at the same time, but we can envisage your reaction already, a load of poppy or words to that effect - well read on! June this year, we had the pleasure of welcoming back for their second stay (and third in December!), Alison and John who braved the travel warnings, arrived from the UK, much to the horror of friends who inquired where they were taking their holiday - KENYA, "you'll be right in the middle of al-kidyounothotdangercountry or Al-kidalikeyourcountry full of marauding terrorists that's what the 'Travel advisory' says. Did we find any? Well, yes, actually we did in the middle of the Aberdare forest, it came in the shape of two huge bull buffalos, obviously with headaches after their little battle, loud explosions echoing throughout the forest as they clashed together, large grunts and groans! May and June brought some well-deserved rain to the dry parched earth, turning the land into a delicious assortment of greens. However, what really caught our eyes was the raging torrent in the month of May that surged down the Ewaso Ngiro River below the Lodge, rising approximately 16 feet, a spectacle to watch the force of nature roaring down the river, tearing at tree roots, rocks, banks with deafening crescendo, not good for river rafting at all! Luckily the suspension bridge to Koija Starbeds survived the flash flood measuring only 5 feet from the middle of the bridge! Tom on his cattle 'Boma' run one evening after a particular heavy down pour managed to get well and truly stuck on the plains in his Land Cruiser, calling for assistance, Jo (Tom's wife) bravely agreed to help, she too slid into a ditch and remained there! Coated in mud and much hilarity they managed to get both vehicles to safety, this is all in a days work! Terrific sightings of wild dog, appearing when you least expect it, have been thrilling, a tremendous bonus to us all! There were reports from our guides that dogs were seen on our western boundary; perhaps a den was in the making? Being cautious we left them alone in the hope that pups would grace our presence, they did in style and inspected the vehicle to make sure the wheels were fully inflated, properly marked and passengers were enjoying their game drive, this fulfilled, they departed! All that can be said is - WOW! More sightings have been recorded of packs of 8,10, 11, 12 and 20 dogs respectively, this is extremely encouraging, but typical dogs, they cover vast territories and sadly not around for long, unless of course they den down again. We have extended a generous offer and hope they will accept. Mike Robinson, a vivacious personality and famous Chef from the BBC Food Program, turned on the charm and delighted the viewers with his creations at Loisaba. We too had a terrific time throwing caution to wind, created some of Loisaba delicacies in-front of Mike who was enthralled and while the camera was rolling, he masterfully gesticulated how easily many of his dishes could be duplicated at home, this was filmed on the deck off Loisaba sitting room. One of our favorite recipes was also filmed, "Filet steak kati kati ya mbau" - literally translated fillet steak between two wooden boards. Delicious fillet steak, sealed in a hot frying pan, in the meantime crush garlic cloves and fresh herbs between the boards, place the fillet steak between the boards, pipe pureed potato around the sides, place in a hot oven for a few minutes - according to Mike, "A delicious combination of delightful flavors, a simple, yet delicious dish!" The series was a great success. Elephant up a tree - A tall story you may say, but as ridiculous as it seems, this was the scene when two of our guides spotted a strange shape in a tree near a dry riverbed, on closer inspection an elephant calf no more than a few hours old was draped over a branch, half eaten. At the base of the tree there were leopard tracks and great tears in the bark where he had struggled to heave his heavy prize up and out of the way from scavengers. This huge male leopard was seen two days prior and was first mistakenly identified as a lioness, until it moved; you can imagine the delight, a truly magnificent specimen. The questions were many - where was the mother elephant? (As normally, they keep vigil even if the calf was still born) Did the leopard actually kill it? Did the elephant abandon it? Nature is mysterious and that's the way it should be, leaving us all guessing, that's what keeps us all so enthralled. With 61,000 acres to "play in", it is always a thrill to set out on foot through wild country never knowing what's out there and without going into too much detail it must be said that there is a certain adrenaline rush when one knows there is a chance of an unexpected close encounter of one of the big five! This happened one morning as we strolled down the valley below the lodge inspecting a busy highway of hoof prints, hyena and lion spoor, fresh elephant dung and many more interesting patterns of various beasts that had left their signs, hard-working colorful spiders re-constructing their webs, noisy baboons barking warnings as we approached and melodious birdsong, orchestrating their own symphony, another beautiful day in Africa! Nearing an Acacia Tortilis, our largest owl a verreaux's eagle owl was perched deep in the shade blinking it's pink eyelids at us with breakfast clutched in its claws, a genet cat, remarkable to say the least, we walk on and a mere 100 yards from the tree, having deciphered from the very fresh elephant dung and tracks that they were close by. With gentle gesticulation to our guests we slowly stalked a heard of elephant, testing the wind, we cautiously made our way closer, at times bent double, freezing so no movement was detected, we crouched in the dry river bed and observed them at close quarters browsing on an Acacia Mellifera. With hearts in their mouths as one elephant turned and strolled towards us, we scuttling across the 'lugga' (dry river bed) and stood our ground, a small movement had the elephant raising its head spreading its ears and trunk outstretched, we waited, there were nervous glances at us and the expressions easily deciphered - 'shall we run? Is it going to charge?' It was amusing thereafter as the elephant thought better and with an ungainly gait, tail in the air and bottom wobbling, beat a hasty retreat! Another walk had hearts beating faster and knees wobbling like jelly, better than a visit to the good Doctor awaiting results! On our way down to the Kiboko starbeds a beautiful walk was in process with giraffe, shy dik dik, large herd of elephants lazily browsing on the hill, a minor detour before the wind changed, beautiful impala, greater kudu, and birds galore we neared the starbeds only to stop dead in our tracks when we came face to face with 6 young huge male lions, called the "useless youths!" - These are only some of the exciting expeditions in our wilderness. We have been extremely lucky to have had several Samburu ceremonies witnessed by many of our guests, from circumcision, wedding and naming ceremonies - extremely colorful, powerful and very festive. Some guests were invited to join in with the festivities were royally decorated, with red okra, Samburu blankets and adorned with jewelry. These marvelous occasions, of course, were a highlight of many who witnessed them. We are happy to share these wonderful true traditional moments and of course look forward to many more next year. Horse rides throughout the ranch have been littered with wonderful wildlife sightings, including three cheetah at close quarters, elephants galore (at a safe distance of course!), braying zebra, oryx, eland and graceful giraffe who are more interested in what unusual creature are on top of this strange smelling beasts. Horseback fly-camping safaris are also an intrepid way to explore our wonderful ranch, visiting areas that vehicles cannot go and camels lopping ahead to set up camp for your arrival late in the afternoon, with roaring camp fire, cocktails and a traditional bush dinner, brings to an end a perfect day. A three or four nights safari can be arranged in advance, interspersed with Kiboko or Koija starbeds make an unusual and fun safari, many more itineraries can be arranged too! As mentioned in our last newsletter we sadly we bid farewell to the Squirrel helicopter 5Y-JIM and welcome the new arrival 5Y-GYM, Euro copter - EC 130 multi colored machine. Humphrey once again has charmed many guests with his magical flying and beautiful excursions to some of the most gorgeous parts of Northern Kenya. To Mount Kenya's peaks and clear lake waters where some of the largest rainbow trout lurk, Humphrey settled the helicopter close to the shores and with trout rods in hand managed to acquire some fine-looking trout, what a magnificent way to spend a day or a morning, it goes without saying that this, is one of the helicopter safaris that must not go amiss! 4th proposal at the star beds! Our hearty congratulations to Frank and Bianca! Frank, we believe waited a year to come back to Loisaba to propose to Bianca at the starbeds, a delighted Frank said, "A fantastic place to get engaged to your girlfriend it is the most romantic setting, thank you!" We wish you both many happy days and look forward to welcoming you back - perhaps on your honeymoon? Recent guests have commented: "This peaceful paradise was a wonderful way to start our African Safari. We will always remember its beauty and your kindness as well. Thanks so much for treating us like family." Susan "Cannot say enough thanks to all! We had the best stay of our life. Naomi - your hands are wonderful!! To the cook - we had the best meals ever! The hospitality is incredibly, Peter, Alison, we are yours forever and the scenery, the drives, the swimming pool…" Natalia "Dear All at Loisaba, thank you so much - 'asanti', 'asheoling', for everything. The great game viewing trips, the starbeds, the rafting, camel rides, amazing food, warm hospitality and Lovely Company. It has been wonderful and we hope to come back one day to this special place." Andrew and Kunera From us all here at Loisaba we would like to extend our warmest greetings and a prosperous and peaceful New Year. Warmest regards. More Accolades for Cape Grace, January 25 2004 Travel and Leisure have placed the Cape Grace in the "Top 15 Greatest Hotels in Africa and the Middle East" and "#1 in Cape Town", with a valuation of 92% for service. The Conde Naste Gold List has noted that the Cape Grace is one of the "Worlds Best Places to Stay" and voted "#1 in Cape Town" with an overall score of 93.1%. Jacana Safari Guide Report, January 25 2004 The Jacana Safari is an 11 day group safari in Botswana with departures throughout the year. Click here to view the full itinerary. Here is guide Russell Crossey's report on a recent Jacana departure: At Kaporota, on our drive into camp, we came across a pride of lion on a buffalo kill - one big male (Big Red), two adult females and two sub-adult males. A great first sighting! On our second day as we were driving to Kaporota Lagoon, we saw wild dogs in the distance! We were the first to see the 8 new puppies, accompanied by 9 adults. We managed to follow them for a while and then they disappeared into thick Mopane forests. Everyone was quite amazed at the abundance of general game in the area. We had roughly 6 sightings of sable antelope too. There were not as many elephants as expected, as the rains had started but we saw a few breeding herds none the less. The group was extremely excited when a bull elephant visited their tents on the last night. Russell did three slide shows on each night at Kaporota that gave everyone a better overview of the Delta, Linyanti and Chobe. It was a highlight! At Jacana Camp - Jack the Elephant visited us 3 times which was a highlight for everyone. The bird sightings were phenomenal and lechwes abundant. Everyone enjoyed brunch in the water and one guest tried mokoro lessons. On the last morning mokoro, nobody said a word for an hour and just soaked the wonders of the Delta in. With a little luck they managed to find a Pel's Fishing owl. Linyanti Camp was definitely the highlight of the safari. It was really hot, but we all managed through it. On the first full day, we came across a pack of wild dogs with their 6 puppies. We followed them and watched as they hunted impala but failed to follow through. Thereafter, we watched the adults take off after three tsessebe. They disappeared into the bush and we watched the puppies follow. They were running after the adults when they suddenly took off and then ran back to a spot in the floodplain and looked like they were eating something. When we approached them, we discovered that a python had caught one of the puppies! Emotions flowed as we watched breathless while the python constricted and killed the puppy. The next day we went back to see the python. It was in a springhare hole and had obviously swallowed the puppy. Not an every day occurrence. The next day, we found a leopard who was playing with a juvenile Bateleur Eagle that had broken its wing. We followed and watched the leopard hunting springhares without any luck. Two really awesome sightings! At Chobe all of the guests loved the boat trip and we saw a baby elephant just after it had been born. The camping was better than anyone had expected and we were also able to find some shade! Robin Pope's Weekly Zambia Update, January 25 2004 Robin and Jo Pope run several very successful safari camps in Zambia. Here is their weekly update: With Nkwali now closed and packed up for another season we are down to a skeleton crew. The staff has been on their annual end of season gamedrive in the park. Loaded up with sundowners and popcorn they enjoyed a lovely drive. It is great for them to get into the park as, like most of us who work behind the scenes, it is easy to be in camp and "forget" that there is a national park across the river. The end of season theme continued on Saturday evening when the staff party was held at Daudi's (Tena Tena Manger) bar, aptly named Cool Runnings. We headed up for a few drinks to get the ball rolling, intending to stay for 30 minutes and then leave the camp staff to enjoy themselves. This however, took a little more time than expected as we first had a speech from Daudi, then Keyala and then Simon. Following this it took sometime for everyone to find a seat, drinks to be passed around and then Simon was asked to officially open the party which consisted of all present taking a swig from their Mosi and then saying cheers - all very ceremonial. Mwila, one of our mechanics, took over the microphone and displayed a hereto hidden DJ'ing talent - we arrived at the bar to his voice booming over the microphone "OK Simon, Shanie and Kim are in the house". The patter was interspersed with traditional music and various members of staff showing off their dance moves - they have such rhythm that Shanie and I were not persuaded to join in being much to ashamed of our English shuffling from one foot to the other. Both of us have done so in the past to the accompaniment of howling laughter and "so you call that dancing"!! Finally about an hour after arriving the party was in full swing and we left the guys to get on with it. I think there would have been a few sore heads the next days. Yesterday we had 50mm of rain. However, earlier this week we had a radio call from the watchmen at Nsefu to say that the bore hole was not working and so they were unable to draw drinking water. After the usual questions about checking the engine, wiring etc it was decided that Keyala should take a couple of mechanics and head off. However, this was no easy mission. We understood that the Mwangazi River was too high to cross with the Land Cruisers and so the intrepid 3 said that they were prepared to take bicycles, wade across the river, then pack their tools onto the bikes and cycle through the park to get up to Nsefu. We then arranged for an armed scout to accompany them - on his bicycle for protection and so our brave heroes set of on their adventure. However, on reaching the river they found it to be low enough to cross by vehicle and so the bikes and scouts where surplus to requirement. Oh well better safe than sorry - on they pressed to the camp, moist underfoot but they made in without any mishaps. On arrival the watchmen were clearly pleased to see them. The mechanics went through the generator and found all in order and so decided that there must be a problem with the underground wiring. They began digging up the wires and eventually found that one had been cut completely through - hence no power. Keyala then took over and after some "discussion" the truth emerged. The watchmen spend their days fishing and use worms as bait. Worms need to be dug, and sorry for that if wires are in the way. This particular shovel full of dirt and worms had prompted the planning of an epic journey and proved more expensive than if we had flown some fish in from Kariba!! One very embarrassed Philipo! Talking of flying, Adam, our workshop manager flew back to the Valley yesterday. Arriving mid afternoon like a whirlwind, armed with stories of his travels. We expect to have days of amusing anecdotes to come. He is now wandering around in his new long shorts and wellies looking very much at home again and ready to take over our ongoing building projects as Robin, Jo, Simon and Shanie all head off next weekend. The bar is being pulled down and rethatched ready for next season. The only decision made so far is that it will be in the same place and everyone has been attempting to sketch there ideas on the back of an envelope - should be interesting. We have been having a large visitor in camp in the shape of a bull elephant called Gilbert - he is a magnificent specimen and strolls around as if he owns the place. The other day he ambled past the office and went down the bank into the river just in front of Marcus's house. Obviously in playful mood he started splashing around and thoroughly enjoying himself - culminating in taking a huge sideways drive into the river - totally submerging himself several times. Simon ran for the camera but he had finished playing by the time the digital appeared. Stay well and have a great week, Kim Return to Weekly Update Archive |
