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Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive

July 2001

Ruckomechi Camp Solar Eclipse Report, July 1 2001

Many of Ultimate Africa's clients have visited either Ruckomechi Camp or Chikwenya Camp in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. Lucky one have enjoyed the company professional guide Beks Ndlovu. Please find Beks' report on the eclipse below:

For two years now, I had been hearing people talk about the total solar eclipse that was to occur on the 21st of June on the year 2001. I never quite understood what all the fuss was about even after seeing a Lunar Eclipse early January this year. The lunar eclipse was impressive, but in my opinion it didn't seem like it was something that people should travel half way around the world to come and see - after all it was only going to last for about three and a half minutes.

Eclipse is a Greek word meaning, hidden, forsaken, or deserted. Three months before the Lunar Eclipse was to take place, the excitement became very intense as we made preparations and plans on the ground. More people started to talk about it and in fact, I was tasked with setting up a small rustic tented camp for eight guests in the Ruckomechi area which is on the Western side of Mana Pools National Park, along the legendary, wild Zambezi River.

In two days we had our little fly camp erected and ready for our visitors. By this time, I had attended one Eclipse Talk, listened to a Lecture by an Astronomer, and I had done a lot of research from books and other literature that I managed to find from various people. I felt as though I was "Eclipsed" out with information and just hearing everyone around me talking about the event. I was by this time more than convinced that this had to be a phenomenon that was well worth it. I soon realized how fortunate I was to be in an area were I was going to see a total Eclipse, and more, I was going to be in an area rich with wildlife allowing me an opportunity to observe it's effect on the wild life around me.

At this point in time, it was very difficult not to share the same excitement, as did the people that talked about it two years ago. It was now very clear why people traveled all over the world to see eclipses. I heard of people that had seen six Total Eclipses, some from out in the Ocean aboard a ship, in the Polar Regions, in Mexico, and in Cornwall.

On Thursday the 21st of June, everybody gathered their equipment by 12;30 PM, and started to set up their cameras on their tripods, fix and glue the special ultraviolet filter paper on their binoculars and camera lenses. The combination of the silver filter papers on their equipment and everyone wearing their Eclipse Glasses made the scene look like something out of the movie "Star Trek" or some other science fiction movie. One thing that had been very evident was the very strong and consistent Northeasterly wind. By approximately 1:43 PM we witnessed what is referred to as first contact, which is when the moon took its first bite at the sun. If you took off your Solar Glasses, you could not notice any difference in the light or the atmosphere. Everybody marveled at that sight, but that was the beginning of a truly amazing event.

By 2:00 PM I started recording the temperature and it read 31,9 degrees Celsius. Even though it was windy earlier, the heat had also been intense. We had been seated in the shade of a huge Rain Tree. A quarter of an hour after I had recorded my first temperature, it had dropped by two degrees Celsius. Having moved to the open, we all sat along the bank of the Zambezi River, some sipping on ice tea, and some on gin and tonics and eating from a delicious spread of food. We all waited sharing our expectations and observations. We could see and hear hippos serenading in their pods, Red-billed wood hoopoes cackling away, ground hornbills oohing and aahing like a tribe's-man playing a big African base drum. So much seemed to happen around us. About three-quarters of the way from first contact to second contact, we saw flocks of Egyptian geese coming together in their large flocks squawking as though to go and roost as they would normally do at dusk. You could see the insects of the night rising from the ground flattering their inconspicuous wings against the slowly fading light, the midges joined them, and soon the atmosphere was filled with the sounds of mosquitoes buzzing along the river marshes.

Following that was the sweet, aromatic scents of wild basil and vlei spice, rising with the warm air as the cool air descended. At 3:00 PM the temperature had dropped a further three and a half degrees. By this time, the wind had died down and the water in the stagnant pools was calm and flat as a mirror. We very quickly rushed to the table set below our Rain tree, where we had a table cloth set on flat ground. We observed the dappled light, which was in the shape of crescents, shaped like the sun was. The gaps in the trees acted like pinholes and cast light patches in the shapes similar to that of the now obscured sun. The light was grey and the only time I had seen and experienced this, was in the middle of a bush fire, when it's dark choking smoke filtered the harsh sun. Soon we saw Baileys beads. With the moon having the biggest Mountains and deepest valleys than earth, the last bit of light shines through those valleys and the mountains, breaking up some of the light, giving irregular spots around the sun, that effect around the shadowed moon gave the picture of a circle of beads that an Astronomer by the name Bailey, once described.

Next we saw what looked like a beautiful Diamond Ring, which is the stage when there is the last tiny bit of sun left at the last spot and with the glow of the approaching corona all the way around the moon giving a diamond ring effect. The atmosphere further darkened to a darker grey and it gave an eerie feeling about it.

Totality occurred at about ten after three o'clock and darkness was bestowed upon us. From the time of the Diamond Ring, it seemed as though some invisible person stood above us with a dimming switch, and had very slowly but steadily robbed the light from day. As soon as it got dark everyone removed their Eclipse glasses and looked into the awesome sky that had the rotting sun. You could see the corona; it was like a sunflower in full bloom, but with a black core. Through my binoculars I could see at one o'clock of the moon, multicolored strobes of rosy flashes shooting from the sides, followed by another at eight o'clock of the moon. These were hot gases on the surface of the sun exploding and disappearing into the darkness. With so much happening, it was hard to concentrate on one particular thing. The piecing whistle of a Pearl Spotted owl and the grunting of hippos broke the silence. The Red-billed Wood hoopoes and the Lilac breasted rollers that were flying above us soon came to a sudden halt in what appeared to be complete disarray and utter confusion. I turned a full circle round to see the sky, and it was lit up with some of the brightest constellations and other planets, the brightest being Jupiter not to far from the "rotten" Sun. On the horizon, shades of lilac, reds and blues blended in the sky fading into each other. Totality was for a little more than three minutes, and the "invisible" man turned the switch, and we had sudden daybreak. We had another opportunity the see the Diamond Ring and Bailey's beads but this time round, the space of time between third and fourth contact was a lot faster than between the first two. The birds soon appeared to behave normally and the insects soon went quiet again.

It brightened up very quickly as the sun gave more light and the calm waters soon showed life. The temperature had dropped by at least six degrees Celsius by totality, and after the Eclipse it warmed up by five degrees. We had full sunlight for another hour with the sun unobscured before the sun set for it's second time in the same day.

I spoke to a number of people after the Eclipse, and everyone equally saw extra-ordinary behaviors from animals such as baboons climbing up and down as they would at their roosting sites, elephants suddenly stopped feeding and bunching up together as though in the protective manner and other birds equally disoriented. What some of us did not see were the shadow bands that occurred at totality, which were shadows racing on the ground cast by the shadow of the moon. It was described to me as being similar to racing shadows from fast moving clouds on a night of full moon. Speaking to a few local tribes-man, I learnt what this was interpreted as to the very traditional and superstitious people of Africa. It meant that, there was going to be a drastic change in the world, whether it was bloodshed in the form of war, leadership change or famine across the entire world. One mother locked up all her kids in the house, including herself, in fear that they would all go blind and they could not come out until the sun had set that night. It was referred to as "Kuwora reZubva" which is Shona meaning the rotting sun.

For me, this experience was beyond words, unexplained awe of beauty. I cannot compare it to anything I have ever seen in the short time that I have lived. To be so fortunate as to experience something that is said to only occur on an average of once every four hundred years in such an ideal place and perfect weather conditions for that duration, is more than any gift that any man could give you. Having given you that statistic, we will again be fortunate to see one again in Zimbabwe on December 4, 2002, even though totality will be for half the time of this last one. Experiencing an Eclipse is an all or nothing experience. A partial Eclipse or being in an area of something like 98% of totality was once described to me as, buying a ticket to a world famous once only concert. Then on the day, you get to the door, you hear the music from outside, hand your ticket in, and then leaving thinking that you have experienced the concert. This concept you cannot appreciate until you have experienced a Total Eclipse.

Beks Ndlovu - Ruckomechi Camp

Duba Plains Camp June Report, July 1 2001

Many of our Ultimate Africa clients have visited or are visiting Duba Plains Tented Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta region. Please find the June 2001 camp report below:

Water levels sat at maximum for most of June and started to drop gradually over the last couples of days. This has made game drives interesting to say the least and has enabled us to do mekoro trips from camp and boat trips on the main channel. All day activities with picnics have been a success and guests have totally enjoyed these.

The lions and buffalo have kept us well entertained with regular kills and daily sightings near camp. The "Pantry pride" are mating on Duba island which has kept us on our toes and made for many sleepless nights. The guests have loved it. It looks like one of the "Pantry pride" may have had cubs as we have only seen her late this month and she is lactating.

Elephants and hippo have been regular visitors to camp in the evenings which has added to the excitement and noise.

Leopard sightings have been good with a young male around 12 months seeming to thrive on the attention of the vehicles and becoming quite a good performer for the cameras.

The vehicles are holding together despite all the water we have had to get through, the guests have loved the water crossings.

The eclipse provided good entertainment and has made for interesting dinnertime conversations. The 85% of totality that we had at Duba during this recent eclipse will increase to 100% in Botswana next year!

Savute Tented Camp June Report, July 1 2001

Many of our Ultimate Africa clients have visited or are visiting Savute Tented Camp in Botswana's Linyanti / Savute region. Please find the June 2001 camp report below:

There was a wild dog kill at tent 3 after which the dogs went into the channel in front of the camp. We then watched the vicious interaction of the dogs with a hyena over the carcass. There was a lion kill near tent 6, a small buffalo leaving the rest of the 200 strong herd huddled in the parking area. There was also interaction between two male lions in the camp. The resident male won the stand off. There were numerous cheetah kills, a magnificent pride of 15 strong lions and their cubs.

We appear to have a resident male leopard around camp, we have not seen him yet but his tracks are regularly visible in the morning.

The list goes on and on…

Tanzania Airport Departure Tax Raised, July 1 2001

With effect from July 1, 2001 the Tanzanian airport departure tax has increased to 5,000 Tanzania Shillings (approximately US $6) per person on domestic flights and to US $30 per person for international flights.

Uganda Gorilla Update, July 1 2001

The following update was issued by the Association of Ugandan Tour Operators (AUTO) on 19 June 2001. Note that due to safety concerns Ultimate Africa Safaris does not handle arrangements for gorilla treks in Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo.

There have been reports of insecurity in the areas of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) neighboring the South West of Uganda. The area of Uganda concerned, however, remains calm and security has been reinforced. AUTO is monitoring the situation in conjunction with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the Government and foreign missions.

In the meanwhile, the Bwindi and Mgahinga gorilla parks remain open and the Ugandan authorities and the Uganda Wildlife Authority have given an assurance that gorilla tracking can continue normally. The British and American governments in their travel advisories, have, however, recommended that visitors do not go to the gorilla parks for the moment, given the unclear situation in the DRC.

Travel to Uganda and within all areas of Uganda is continuing as normal. Security remains stable and travelers are continuing to visit all the other main parks and reserves - Kibale, Kidepo, Lake Mburo, Mount Elgon, Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth, as well as the wildlife reserves of Kigezi, Kyambura and Semliki Valley. The Rwenzori National Park is expected to open later this year once the infrastructure has been rehabilitated.

Leopard Cub Orphans to be Airlifted from Sudan, July 1 2001

TNT, the international express delivery provider and the legendary Born Free Foundation have joined forces in a major operation to save three tiny leopard cubs orphaned in southern Sudan.

The airlift of the cubs, scheduled to take place in about 10 days, is already tugging at heart-strings around the world. The cubs were barely a fortnight old when they were found dehydrated and starving by a drilling team with the Lundin Oil Company. It is believed that the cubs' mother was shot by poachers or that she simply abandoned them.

The world-famous Shamwari Game Reserve in Port Elizabeth, Eastern Cape, will provide a home for the cubs - if they can be brought from Khartoum, an expensive and difficult process.

TNT has stepped in with an offer of free transport of the cubs to South Africa. Born Free will supply the in-flight expertise as far as the care for the cubs - now named Sami, Alam and Nirmira - is concerned.

New Luxury Lodge Built in Makuleke Region of Kruger, July 1 2001

Construction has started on the US 1.25 million dollar "Outpost" lodge in the Makuleke region of the Kruger National Park. This is the first of six new luxury lodges planned for the Makuleke region of the Kruger National Park. The 24,000 ha region, formerly known as Pafuri, is the northernmost part of the park, and was reclaimed by the Makuleke people in 1998.

The development at the site follows the signing of an agreement last month between the Makuleke Communal Property Association (CPA) and Matswani Safaris, its Johannesburg-based private sector partner, to build an exclusive 24-bed lodge. It is envisaged that the lodge will generate jobs for poor local communities.

Oil Spill possible cause of Sterile Penguins, July 1 2001

Conservationists have note that only 7% of the thousands of penguins oiled after a carrier ship sank off South Africa a year ago, have been seen breeding again, indicating that spills might make the birds sterile.

Anton Wolfaardt, the reserve manager for Cape Nature Conservation on Dassen Island, explained that about 33% of the penguins who were clean, but were evacuated to swim back, are breeding. Wolfaardt said this suggested the clean penguins fared much better at breeding than those that were washed in a mammoth cleaning operation on the mainland. However, he said that conservationists are worried that the oil might have a negative impact on the reproductive organs of both the clean and oiled penguins.

Wolfaardt said Cape Town conservationists would launch a joint study with the University of California to establish whether being polluted with oil could render penguins sterile.

Electric Fence to Reduce People-Wildlife Conflict in Zimbabwe, July 1 2001

A new solar-powered electric fence will ensure that elephants will no longer destroy crops and endanger the lives of several of Zimbabwe's rural communities.

According to Ms Prisca Potera, Hurungwe District manager for the Communal Areas Management Program for Indigenous Resources (CAMPFIRE), a single elephant can cause extensive damage, destroying the fields of up to 20 families in a village at a time. The Hurungwe CAMPFIRE District will be the first of 11 districts to benefit from the electric fence project this year.

The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) is co-financing the Z$50-million fence project (about US $1 million). USAID will pay Z$20 000 and each household will contribute towards paying the balance over a three-year period, using revenue generated from the sale of their maize or cotton crops.

Ivan Bond, resource economist for the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)- Southern Africa Regional Program Office, reportedly said although the fence would increase crop production through the reduction of crop destruction, it was not going to prevent crop destruction caused by smaller animals such as wild pigs. The new fence will also prevent the large-scale disruption of the ecosystem as people will confine their activities to areas meant for farming, while wildlife will roam freely in adjacent areas not suitable for agriculture.

San People Demand Compensation from Pharmaceutical Companies, July 1 2001

South Africa's Kung tribe are demanding compensation as their ancient knowledge has been "stolen" to produce a slimming miracle drug that is set to take the world by storm. The Kung people (a subdivision of the San Bushman of the Kalahari), have traditionally eaten the Hoodia cactus to stave off hunger and thirst on long hunting trips.

The Hoodia plant is now at the center of a biopiracy row, as Phytopharm, a UK-based pharmaceutical concern, in collaboration with pharmaceutical giant Pfizer, is set to produce a miracle diet pill from the plant. Pfizer is currently taking the pill, known as P57, through clinical trials and hopes to have it on the shelves within three years.

Phytopharm had apparently obtained rights to commercialize P57, which contains the appetite-suppressing active compound of the Hoodia cactus, from South Africa's Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR). However, the Kung people believe that they were never consulted on the matter. Last week leaders of the San and Kung gathered near Cape Town and one of the items on the agenda allegedly was to plan a strategy against the CSIR, Phytopharm and Pfizer for "plundering" their ancient medicinal knowledge of the plant. Phytopharm claims that it never consulted the Kung as it believed the tribe was extinct.

Roger Chennells, a lawyer for the San, and Adi Paterson, executive vice-president of the CSIR, are ready to enter negotiations to settle the matter.

Survivor to be filmed in Africa, July 8 2001

The incredibly popular television series Survivor will be filmed during the summer / fall of 2001 in east Africa - the cradle of mankind..."Survivor 3"  will be set in Kenya's Shaba  Reserve where the movie "Born Free" was filmed. Two-thirds of the semi-arid Shaba Reserve, which is located 140 miles north of Nairobi, has been closed for production of the reality-based series.

The reserve is owned and operated by Isiolo County, which earns about $615,000 a year from the land. The money is used to pay for schools, hospitals and other programs . The county was paid an estimated US $192,000 by CBS for the four-month lease. 

The reserve's senior game warden Abdi Boru was surprised to find out that a game show was being filmed in the park. He says he was told that a film crew called Mwandiga, a Swahili word meaning "to leave one behind," had leased the area.

Kenyans involved in the newest "Survivor" also signed confidentiality agreements that prevents them from discussing the show with the press, but word of mouth, dubbed the "bush telegraph," has it that crew members soon will be flown in from California and Australia to begin filming. In addition, some Nairobi residents say they were asked to take part in a test run at the Shaba location in place of the 16 contestants, who have yet to arrive. Some of the Kenyans say they were chosen for their appearance (young, fit and white), bringing to mind executive producer Mark Burnett's previous admission that he has used body doubles and stand-ins for filler shots. In this case, the extras are being used to test the immunity and reward challenges that producers are preparing, says CBS spokesman Chris Ender. They will not be involved in filming the series.

The show's producers have said the contestants will build and live in traditional mud-and-dung huts like those of the Samburu people and walk alongside reticulated giraffes and Grevy's zebras, an endangered species. The cast members will also have to watch out for leopards and lions, both indigenous to the area.

While locals are hopeful the series will bring tourists into the area, thus improving the country's sluggish economy, environmentalists are concerned with protecting the land. Ender says Burnett has always been committed to working with respect for the environment. Meanwhile, workers on the reserve say two buildings and a temporary swimming pool have been built. "Mark has learned through trial and error how to return the land to the same condition, and in some cases better condition, than it was when he started," says Ender.

Largest Elephant Relocation Effort in East Africa, July 8 2001

Mzee is 42, headstrong and notorious for crashing through the electrified fence that surrounds a sprawling ranch in north central Kenya. On Thursday, the 4.2-ton bull elephant stumbled out of a truck, shook off his stupor and flapped his ears, ambling free in his new, fenceless home following the most intensive elephant relocation effort to date in eastern Africa.

Richard Kosgey, whose small farm outside the ranch has been trampled more than once by elephants, was glad to see Mzee and the other pachyderms leave. "We are very happy they are gone. They destroyed our crops every now and then, but luckily, no one has been injured in a long time."

The three-week process to move the 56 elephants from the 36-square-mile private game sanctuary, Ol Pajeta, to the 348-square-mile Meru National Park began last Monday. The US $150,000 effort underscores the problems the huge animal's face and pose in a poor country of 29 million people.

Patrick Omondi, operations manager for the Kenya Wildlife Service, has been moving elephants around the East African nation since 1995. Mzee, eight other bulls and seven elephant families were taken to Meru Park in an attempt to reduce the human-animal conflict in Laikipia district, where animals are regarded as huge pests, he said. But their transfer also will help restock the park, which saw its vast elephant population decimated in the late 1970s and early '80s by poachers hungry for ivory. Kenya has prohibited sport hunting since 1977 and an international conference on endangered species banned ivory sales in 1989. Omondi said the elephant population on Ol Pajeta had grown to 125. While the sanctuary is also home to 40 rhinos and 500 giraffes, it is the elephants who cause the problems with humans.

After Dr. Elizabeth Wambua, head of the wildlife service's veterinary unit, and a colleague darted Mzee with sedatives from a low-flying helicopter and radioed in his location, dozens of rangers rushed to the spot and surrounded the fallen beast. Chanting in unison, the rangers, joined by Kosgey and a dozen other farmers, tied the elephant with heavy rope and winched his immense body across a ramp and onto a flatbed trailer. Next, Mzee was taken to an open field and placed in a large cage-like box where he was given an antidote to the sedative. The box was hoisted upright and the groggy elephant stood again as the container was transferred onto another flatbed truck and driven to a third vehicle. After an 11 hour, 90 mile journey in a three truck convoy, Mzee and two companions were exploring the vast plains of their new home.

The International Fund for Animal Welfare, the Born Free Foundation and the Kenya Wildlife Service financed the US $150,000 relocation process. IFAW spokeswoman Liz Wamba said the fund plans to spend US $1.25 million in Kenya over the next five years to help keep animals like Mzee out of harm's way, and out of farmers' fields.

Africa's Chimpanzees in Grave Danger, July 8 2001

World renowned chimpanzee conservationist Jane Goodall has warned that commercial hunters abetted by wars and logging companies are a grave threat to chimpanzees across central Africa.

"The hunters are now able to go deep into the forest because they ride on the logging trucks on the roads that have been built by the logging companies ... shooting anything and then smoking it and taking the meat to the towns, even shipping it off to exotic restaurants," Jane Goodall told a news conference in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, recently. "Hunting and the destruction of forests for firewood and timber have reduced the chimpanzee population in 21 African nations from 2 million a century ago to only 220,000 today, Goodall said. Because they are very slow breeders and give birth only after five year intervals, she said, the species could be on its way to extinction if nothing is done to protect the animals and their habitat.

Goodall, 68, who has been studying chimpanzees in northwestern Tanzania, for 40 years, said when she arrived in Gombe National Park in 1960, 150 chimpanzees lived there. Because of the encroachment of refugees from neighboring Congo who kill the chimpanzees for food as well as transmit human diseases to them, the population has dwindled to 110. She said people in the region of the park traditionally have eaten chimpanzee meat, but commercial hunting has greatly increased the numbers of animals killed. "Trade in chimpanzee and gorilla meat is widespread throughout central Africa, despite the fact that both are protected species in the countries where they are hunted. Civil conflicts in the region have made it impossible to enforce the law" according to Goodall.

The World Wide Fund for Nature notes that chimpanzee and gorilla meat is commercially available from Cameroon to Congo and features on the menus of restaurants catering to central Africans in Paris and Brussels. The meat is served dried or smoked and as steak or in stews.

Goodall has returned to Tanzania to celebrate her 40 years of work on chimpanzee conservation.

Ruwenzori Mountains National Park Reopens, July 8 2001

The Ugandan government reopened the Ruwenzori Mountains National Park to tourists on July 2, 2001, nearly four years after rebel activity forced its closure. The mountains, known as Ptolemy's Mountains of the Moon, were used by rebels trying to overthrow the government. However, government forces have defeated the rebels and tourists can once again appreciate the parks wildlife and scenery.

Due to safety concerns Ultimate Africa Safaris does not handle arrangements to Uganda.

Ivory Seized at Ugandan Airport, July 8 2001

The Uganda Revenue Authority and police have seized 213 kg of elephant ivory at Uganda's Entebbe International Airport.

The police at the airport reportedly said the ivory was destined for Thailand. The elephant tusks were handed over to the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA).

Chobe may have up to 100,000 Elephant, July 8 2001

Botswana's Chobe National Park has been witnessing annual 5 to 6 percent increases in elephant population. Some experts now estimate that there are nearly 100,000 elephant in the Chobe-Kasane area.

Highest Bungee Jump Recognized as World Record, July 8 2001

The Guinness Book of Records has finally (after several years) and officially recognized the Bloukrans bridge bungee jump - just 40 km outside of Plettenberg Bay on South Africa's Garden Route - as the world's highest bungee jump! Operated by Face Adrenalin, the 216 meter jump is almost double the height of the famous Victoria Falls bridge jump, which in comparison, measures a paltry 111 meters. The world's second highest jump is found in New Zealand, at 130 meters.

World's Best Scuba Diving, July 8 2001

South Africa can now compete with the rest of the world with great with incredible scuba diving! At Rocktail Bay clear warm waters year round, pristine and unexplored coral reefs and no hoards of other divers to contend with combine with a unique and remote location in the Maputaland Coastal Forest Reserve. The Lodge's scuba and boating operation is up there with the best dive experiences in the world!

Rocktail Bay's new dive operation is up and running and guests are enjoying exploring pristine coral and rock reefs off the northern KwaZulu-Natal coastline. Non-scuba divers are catered for as well and can enjoy boating and snorkeling. Rocktail Bay is situated mid-way between Sodwana Bay and Kosi Bay along a stretch of 40km of pristine and undeveloped coast.

Rocktail Bay Lodge has recently been granted their own exclusive ski-boat launch site on this stretch of the KwaZulu Natal coast. It is ideal for upmarket, discerning divers who wish to "get away from the crowds". Only ten divers at a time can comfortably be taken out to sea by in the custom built boat. The "dive center" is the first "Mares" affiliated International Dive Resort in Africa.

Maputaland boasts world-class diving, with the biodiversity of fish nearly matching that of the Great Barrier Reef, and far exceeding that of the Caribbean. The reefs off Rocktail Bay are undisturbed and biologically intact. They are also hugely impressive with gullies, overhangs, and a plethora of plate and soft corals. The lodge has won the British Airways "Tourism for Tomorrow" award, as well as being named one of the "Top ten beaches of the World" by Outside Magazine, USA.

The exclusive diving at Rocktail Bay Lodge is an important development in South African tourism, especially when combined with the Great White Shark diving in the Western Cape, which is already attracting significant foreign interest. Rocktail Bay's diving will significantly promote South Africa as a world- class diving destination.

Rocktail Bay is less than an hours' flight from the world renowned Kruger National Park.

Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique Cooperate on Development of Single Wildlife Park, July 15 2001

Environment and tourism ministers from Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique have expressed satisfaction at progress made in the establishment of the world's single largest conservation area that involves the three countries . The conservation area, which stretches almost 100,000 square kilometers along borders among the three nations, takes in Mozambique's Gaza province, South Africa's Kruger National Park and Zimbabwe's Gonarezhou National Park. An agreement to establish the Gaza-Kruger-Gonarezhou Transfrontier Park was signed late last year and a one-year target, expiring this November, was set.

At the end of their meeting, which took place in Harare last Wednesday, the ministers said set targets had "more or less been achieved". Zimbabwean Minister of Environment and Tourism of Zimbabwe Francis Nhema said they were optimistic that before this November they will be "closer to launching one of the biggest wildlife parks in the world ". It has been described as a prime example of co-existence between humans and wildlife not experienced elsewhere and showing cooperation among the states. "No other three countries in the world have attempted or succeeded in establishing a park that passes borders of all," said South African Minister Mohammed Moosa. Meanwhile, the three ministers also finalized the Gaza-Kruger-Gonarezhou Transfrontier Park Treaty, which approves the vision of the three countries in establishing the park and sets out the framework of cooperation.

Botswana's Vumbura Camp June Report, July 15 2001

The month of June was quite exciting at Vumbura with water levels rising, the tsetse fly spraying, as well as the eclipse!

The evenings have been getting chilly, so lap blankets have been used around the dinner table at night. The average low was 14 degrees and high was 25 degrees. The days are really beautiful and warm.

Vumbura had two wild dog sightings this month, both only two dogs. The two cheetah brothers, Chris and Patrick, have been around and guests have had really good photographic opportunities. There have been 10 lion cubs and three female lions near camp, which has led to loads of excitement with the guests.

Eclipse day went down really well! Vumbura staff surprised the guests in the bush with a "cocktail bar". When the guests arrived they were offered drinks, and then watched the eclipse. The staff choir and traditional dancing made up for Vumbura only having a partial eclipse. They are looking forward to December 2002 when another eclipse will take place.

Due to the high water level guests have been unable to enjoy the cultural village trips. Staff can no longer drive all the way into camp and have cut a channel for the boats to use. Getting to the airstrip is also getting more and more difficult, with lots of water which coming over the hoods of the Land Rovers. On the other hand the wildlife has been great!

A new gazebo has also been built next to the swimming pool area. This will be used for private dinners.

Botswana's Kwetsani Tree Camp June Report, July 15 2001

The weather consisted of chilly mornings, sometimes with a cold wind from the east and nice warm days. The low was 12,8 C and high 26,8 C - not to bad for wintertime. The last days of June saw the water drop quite a bit. All the client evaluations ranked between Very Enjoyable and Excellent.

On the wildlife side they had some exciting moments at Kwetsani with a male lion protecting his mothers new offspring. On the game drives between Kwetsani and Jao guests were able to get close to some serious lion honeymooners and there have been good leopard sightings.

Handa Island, pretty much under water now as well, brought some wonderful cheetahs and breeding herds of elephants. The highlight definitely this month was a complete lion kill of a red lechwe. From the hunt, to the kill on to the meal guests saw it all live!

The highlight of the month was definitely the eclipse. For 3 minutes the moon shaded the sun. It wasn't totality but the light turned a lighter shade of gray, temperatures dropped, francolin started calling, and they even heard an owl and then we saw the most amazing thing, everything was covered by crescent shadows. Feeling very small the guides understood and appreciated why people travel across continents to experience this. On December 2, 2002 another eclipse will be total.

The channel was full of surprises this month. The guides found aardvark twice, caracal with cubs and two tiny leopard cubs safely tugged away high up in a mangostene tree. Several guests who stayed for three nights, every day saw a different kill - cheetah, wilddog and lion. There goes the "documentaries take years to film and don't expect to see that kind of action in three days" - theory. Guests also managed to see a female cheetah with her three teenage cubs, relaxing on a termite mound. The next thing two rutting impala rams appeared, too busy sparring they didn't take notice of the 4 pairs of eyes intently staring at them. Within seconds the cheetahs were up and ready, the mother jumped up right in front of them, forcing them to run. One stood dead still, but the other ran - he got chased. Across the field everyone watched them in action, for a second it looked like the impala would make it, but then the cheetah mother casually went into turbo boost and it was all over. The cubs arrived, jumped on the ram and there it stood until mum decided to give her babies a lesson in anatomy. They awkwardly started nibbling away while mum kept a nervous eye, trying to catch her breath. Not ten minutes later the first hyena arrived. Several hyenas arrived and the cheetahs disappeared.

Botswana's Xigera Camp June Report, July 15 2001

Guests at Xigera experienced about an 80% Eclipse. Probably the most fun was the staff's reaction.

After floating a Landrover across the channel to a new Island in May, Can now offer drives throughout the year.

During June there were lions mating at the airstrip for about 3 days. A male lion killed a giraffe near the airstrip and there was great viewing of the interaction between the lion and 11 hyena. Another male lion eventually chased off the lion. There were also sightings of lion on the new game drive Island and 2 sightings of a relaxed female leopard on the island

Botswana's Jacana Camp June Update, July 15 2001

Jacana camp, in Botswana's Okavango Delta, has simply blown the minds of guests and everybody in general with their fabulous new activity which involves everybody on the island! Guests are escorted over a simple wooden bridge to the separate island where the staff of Jacana live. Here they are met by a hostess, Anna, the laundry lady and taken on a tour of the staff village.

Along a beautiful little pathway winding through the village the people of Jacana captivate the guests with their crafts and skills. Mandolo, the camphand, demonstrates how string gets made from the Sanseveria plant and then shows how he makes a trap to catch birds. Botsile, the mekoro poler sits under a large Jackalberry tree skillfully carving miniature mekoro.

Further along the path Martie and Itereleng, from the laundry department display some of the stunning baskets they weave while demonstrating their skill. Guests get informed on which plants they use to obtain the dyes for the lovely earthy tones they color their weaving material.

Two small tables display locally made beadwork and some artifacts from the camp curios.

The group now comes to a round clearing where they are enthralled by a witch doctor scenario enacted by two of the Polers. Dichaba, dressed in skins and bone looks truly awe inspiring while he dramatically 'throws the bones' to determine the fate of K.P. who came to seek his 'advice' Guests are simply awe struck by this display of a very strong traditional belief system. How to make fire using sticks is not something that many people ever get to see in their lives. Balang shows everybody this Bushman skill and invites the guests to give it a try.

The visitors now get led to the cooking area and the ladies are invited to sit flat on the grass mats that are put on the ground for them. The men get to sit on rough wooden chairs - this is true to Motswana tradition. Tea gets served in tin mugs while the chefs prepare some traditional Motswana 'doughnuts' over an open fire. While sipping their tea everybody gets entertained by a traditional story told by Mowando the oldest member of the Jacana staff.

Guests to the camps have often expressed the desire to experience first hand the way of life of the local people. The people of Jacana have succeeded spectacularly in fulfilling this desire. It is also just wonderful how uplifting this experience has proved to be for the staff and they are so thrilled to get to interact with the guests.

A large male lion was spotted on the deck of tent no.1 one morning in June. David and Cathy Kays were on a visit to Jacana when they were woken up by the creaking of their deck at around two in the morning. The lion had taken the wrong path and ended up having to turn around when it came up against the tent on the deck. Lions do come onto Jacana despite the island being surrounded by water.

Guests to Jacana have been really thrilled to learn a new skill during their stay on this beautiful island. Sonja, one of the managers at Jacana has been demonstrating how to make hand made paper using some of the local vegetation. The process involves recycling used office paper and the guests have been really appreciative of learning this very eco-friendly craft.

An adult literacy program has been started at Jacana when the resident managers, Ian and Sonja discovered that most of the staff members were completely illiterate. Staff members now have the opportunity to attend reading classes after work, where they have the opportunity to learn the basic skills of reading, writing and speaking English. The members of staff involved in this program are just so enthusiastic and guests are simply delighted to hear about the program. A number of guests have even donated some funds towards the program. These funds will be used to start a small 'library' of easy to read books for the exclusive use of the staff at Jacana.

Crisp in the early mornings, mild in the day, cold at night, but not freezing cold. The wind has been blowing quite a bit in the morning, but this makes for some very exiting mekoro rides so that is O.K. The island is still surrounded by water on all sides and this is such an amazing sight - together with the many palm trees Jacana has a true 'island' atmosphere about it.

The Pel's fishing owl has been spotted very regularly on mekoro excursions to the north of Jacana. Some of the guests had a wonderful sighting of a sitatunga male whilst out on a mekoro activity. The birdlife around Jacana is as diverse as ever with lots of water birds just off the island. Two spotted-necked otters also seem to have decided that the area right in front of the main unit at Jacana is the perfect place for them to be seen.

Zimbabwe's Matusadona Water Wilderness June Report, July 15 2001

Lions have killed yet another hippo, the night of the eclipse, and just twenty meters into the bush in front of room 2. This was accompanied with a lot of noise and kept most of the staff awake for quite a while. Obert has seen lion numerous times on walks.

Wild rhino have been seen a few times with little extra effort, which has been a real bonus. The baby rhino are continuing to be a very popular destination for most guests. National Parks are now thankfully enforcing a no touch policy, which will hopefully make Mvura a little less friendly to people and better able to adapt when she is finally released in approximately a year's time. Staff are careful to ensure guests understand the whole program when offering to go and see them and they try to get to the Tashinga area a little later so that the rhinos have moved away from the bomas and tourists from the other lodges have been and gone. The older two rhinos, Donna and Shungu, have been radio collared and are due to be taken away to another boma in Matusadona where they will spend a short time before being released completely into the wild. They are certainly a very close couple and, although way too young (about three years old), they have been going through the motions of expanding the national rhino population. Two more baby rhinos have arrived at Tashinga, but are not yet wandering around the bush during the day. National Parks are probably waiting for the older two to go first.

Diederik's cuckoo and Racket-tailed roller are two unusual bird sightings this month. Honest has been consistently seeing and approaching elephant on his walks and around the camp.

Simeon sat with a group of guests just around the bend in the Chura River, behind the camp, appreciating the general scenery, when a large herd of buffalo came down to drink. According to the one guest there were 184 before he stopped counting.

Another leopard was seen from the mothership, just as the guests were leaving for the afternoon cruise. The leopards are certainly around, just very elusive, as they can be heard at night around 10:00 PM and their spoor is all over the place.

Obert's "impala-doodoo" spitting competitions just are not catching on with the guests, not through a lack of trying though, and Caro has finally managed to go through a month without falling out of a canoe or boat.

Namibia's Skeleton Coast June Report, July 15 2001

On the weather front the Battle of The winds continues, although the Westerly seems to be showing traits of stamina, that might get him the victors position. The east wind is not managing to push any warm air their way, with temperatures plummeting well below 10 degrees in the mornings and evenings.

The feed back on activities has been, for the most part, very very positive. The staff remain on a brilliant standard, with spirits soaring a little higher than usual when Hans pulled in with their staff Pool Table. There was great excitement and a lot of laughs, especially when the Himba guys approached the table. They were pretty confused by the whole concept, but enjoyed it none the less.

Zambian Conservationists Honored by Queen Elizabeth II, July 15 2001

The founders of the Zambia-based Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage, David and Sheila Siddle, were awarded MBE's (Members of the British Empire) by the UK's Queen Elizabeth II last week. The Siddles were included in the Queen's Birthday Honors for "service to animal welfare and conservation".

Situated along the Upper Kafue Basin in Chingola, central Zambia, Chimfunshi was established in 1983 as a non-profit refuge that cares for a variety of sick, wounded or abandoned animals. Its primary residents are 75 orphaned chimpanzees. The orphanage is visited annually by approximately 30,000 tourists from all over the world.

Earlier this year, Chimfunshi was also announced as the second nominee for the annual Audi Terra Nova conservation award.

Ugandan Authorities Look for Ivory Smuggler, July 15 2001

The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and the police at Entebbe are on the lookout for the owner of 213 kilograms of ivory impounded recently at Entebbe International Airport.

The suspect, Edem Kodo, a West African, reportedly escaped when the ivory was seized. The ivory had passed through the Civil Aviation Authority security checks but was detected by officials of Entebbe Handling Services.

The ivory was destined for Bangkok, Thailand, via Addis Ababa on an Ethiopian Airlines plane.

Rwenzori Park Re-Opens to Tourists, July 15 2001

The Mount Rwenzori National Park was officially re-opened last week with the Uganda People's Defense Force (UPDF) Chief of Staff pledging to keep 2,000 troops at 27 critical sites. Brigadier James Kazini told press at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel that the UDPF has occupied former enemy bases and would put up permanent zonal forces and a permanent security helicopter landing site for reinforcement. He said this would be done if Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and the National Environmental Management Authority (NEMA) approves. Kazini said the Government has declared the park safe again for human activity that after the UPDF contained the ADF rebels. He presented a strategy for the maintenance of peace and stability in the area. "The enemy has always used these mountains as a springboard. There are currently 14 infantry battalions in the mountains. We shall use 1,000 soldiers in the 27 areas and keep interchanging them with the extra thousand to be kept in the lowlands," Kazini said.

Tour operators who attending the re-opening asked the Government to give a 100 percent assurance of security.

Prof. Edward Rugumayo, the minister of tourism, trade and industry attended the briefing. He said, "What is important to us today is to inform the world that it's safe to visit, relax and enjoy the mountains."

UWA has given the Rwenzori Mountaineering Services, an association formed by the community that lives around the mountains, the concession to control and sell permits, train guides, construct camps along the trails and care take for the tourists.

Due to safety concerns Ultimate Africa does handle arrangements to Uganda.

Mount Kenya Forest Illegally Plundered, July 15 2001

Loggers are indiscriminately felling trees in Mt. Kenya Forest despite a government ban on logging. Kirinyaga's Kamweti area, where detectives and foresters seized timber worth thousands of shillings recently, is the most affected.

Loggers are reportedly cutting down trees by day and ferrying them out of the forest at night. The timber was found in a heap a few meters away from the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) offices and removed to Kerugoya Police Station pending an investigation. A local forest officer, Mr. Gabriel Kariuki, reportedly said police officers were surprised to find the timber so close to the KWS offices. "We suspect some of the KWS officials are colluding with loggers to destroy the forest", he said.

Strange and maybe True - Kenya to Introduce Tigers from India, July 15 2001

Kenya plans to introduce tigers into its national parks from India. Speaking at the High Commission of India auditorium during the launch of "Bridge of God", a book authored by India's renowned tiger conservationist Valmik Thapar, Kenya Wildlife Service Chairman Charles Njonjo said he has appealed to the India Wildlife Service to provide a pair of tigers to the Nairobi National Park. Tigers are not endemic to Africa.

Malawi Culls Crocodiles to Reduce Human Deaths, July 15 2001

Malawi's environmental officials are planning to slaughter 200 endangered Nile crocodiles in the country's rivers and Lake Malawi because they are killing too many people.

According to certain reports, up to two people a day are killed by crocodiles during the rainy season. Roy Bhima, assistant director of research in the Ministry of Tourism, Parks and Wildlife said international convention allowed Malawi to cull 200 crocodiles each year.

In Malawi the reptiles are hunted for their skin and gall-bladder, believed to have magic powers. Malawians apparently do not eat the meat.

Ndutu Lodge Report for July 2001, July 22 2001

Ndutu (bordering the Serengeti in northern Tanzania) is now well into the dry season. All the surrounding wildlife is starting to concentrate around the available water sources such as the big and small marsh and Lake Masek, since nothing drinks from Lake Ndutu as it's too alkaline.

Lake Masek is about two kilometers from Ndutu Lodge. It is long and thin, maybe some five kilometers in length, although it's only half a kilometer wide. It is also quite a bit deeper than Lake Ndutu. Both lakes lie in a depression, which is actually the start of the world famous Oldupai Gorge. If you kept walking from the western end of Masek you would eventually arrive at the Oldupai visitor's center (though it would take about two days!) and the spot where Louis and Mary Leakey discovered some of our prehistoric hominid remains. The water in Masek is still alkaline but not as concentrated as Ndutu. You don't tend to see the large numbers of flamingos on Masek compared to Ndutu but there's always a sprinkling of these pink birds at either end of the lake. There's also a small school of hippo that can always be seen and often heard, snorting and grunting, on an evening game drive. I once witnessed hippos mating there and it's the most bizarre thing since they mate in the water. How the female doesn't drown, I don't know, since the only thing visible is the tip of her nose as she tries to breathe every so often. I tried to find out how long they can hold their breath underwater. Most guidebooks will tell you it's about 4 - 5 minutes, but one book said that, as no one has ever tried to drown a hippo, no one really knows how long they can stay underwater!

There's at least one crocodile in Lake Masek. Where it came from is bit of a mystery as no one has seen a crocodile there in many years until one day there he, or she, was. It can be seen quite often sunning itself on one of the little sand islands in the middle of the lake. We first started to see it just after the El Nino rainy season, three years ago. The nearest population of crocodile to Ndutu is in the Simiyu River in the neighboring Maswa Game Reserve about forty miles away. There's also crocodiles at Seronera, but that's over fifty Miles away, with grassy plains in between. I think it came from the Simiyi river. By looking at a map, we've worked out that it would be possible for a crocodile to follow little wet season gullies and valleys (especially during El Nino when everything was flooded) all the way to the Ndutu marshes. From there it just had to follow the river from the marsh that feeds Lake Ndutu and swim across the lake. The only tricky bit left would be the half a kilometer walk from Ndutu to Masek. By then it had made quite an epic journey and we'd gained a croc which, to tell the truth, we're very pleased about.

I've no idea where the word Masek comes from or what it means but it could easily mean the place of elephants. Elephants love the open acacia woodlands and thick stands of commiphora which surround the lake. It's by far the best place in the Ndutu area to watch elephants and, thinking about the hippos I mentioned earlier, I once came across a bull elephant in the lake chasing the hippos, lots water and hippos going everywhere followed by an ample supply of trumpeting from the elephant. Once the elephant had tired of this game, which I don't suppose the hippos appreciated, he left the water and started to browse on the lakeshore. But unbeknown to him, he was followed out of the water by a tiny baby hippo that looked like a little pig. By this time the rest of the hippos Were safely in the middle of the lake, the little hippo followed the elephant for about five minutes around the lakeshore with the elephant blissfully unaware. I started to get quite worried for the little chap, thinking that I was about to see him flattened. But not a bit of it, once the bull got wind of him he spun around with an almighty trumpet and charged. I closed my eyes, the elephant screamed, and baby hippo stood his ground. Once the bull realized this little thing wasn't scared of him, he just hit the brakes turned on his heels and ran in the opposite direction as fast as he could with his tail in the air and disappeared over the hill. It took a little while before the little hippo realized that he'd lost his playmate and then slowly and, to my eyes looking a little dejected, he walked back to the water and to his mother who was probably doing handstands.

At the end of the dry season, September - October, the Maasai, move into the Masek area with their cattle. The Maasai use Masek as a last resort when all other water sources dry up, as it's probably not good for their livestock to drink this brackish water. And once the first rains arrive they leave as quickly as they came. The elephants seem to have perfected the art of avoiding them and carry on as usual, but the lions, which really don't like them at all - and for good reason - virtually, move into the lodge grounds at this time.

In my opinion the best thing about Masek, apart from the lions, leopards, elephants and in the wet season, wildebeest crossings is that there are a hundred and one places to have the perfect sundowner. It's the most tranquil place I know (unless you're being chased by an elephant) and watching hippos, or some of the many wading birds, which are abundant, while enjoying a sundowner, is one of the pleasures of life.

Around the campfire this month we've been treated to the planet Mars Which is rising from the East. Of special note was a partial eclipse of the Sun on the 21st June. Three o'clock that day saw us up on the hill over looking Lake Ndutu with chocolate cake and tea. Solar viewing glasses and welding goggles in hand, we had the most amazing tea party while the moon covered 60% of the sun. We also had a lunar eclipse this month and, of course without all the light pollution of town, the Serengeti is the perfect place to see the night sky.

I seem to have run out of space with this month's newsletter without mentioning the huge male lion that sat next to the entrance road with an eland kill for four days, battling it out with the hyenas to keep it his kill. Or the very destructive giraffe that seems determined to wreak as much havoc to the lodge as is possible for a giraffe to do, but that's just life in the bush. We hope that you will be able to enjoy it with us some time. Paul, Ndutu Safari Lodge

Kenyan Elephant Dies during Translocation, July 22 2001

An elephant died this week while being transported from the Sweet Waters Rhino Sanctuary in Laikipia to the Meru National Park in Kenya.

Mr. Patrick Omondi, coordinator of the translocation project, said the seven-year-old bull weighing 1,500 kilograms died soon after being sedated. A post-mortem revealed that the animal died of stress. The elephant was among five other elephants captured for relocation in the Meru National Park.

It is anticipated that the project will be completed by July 24. Thirty-one elephants out of the targeted total of 54 have been translocated to Meru so far.

Cape Town "One of World's Most Beautiful…", July 22 2001

Late last month Cape Town joined another international club - "Most Beautiful Bays in the World" at a world convention held in France.

Other beautiful bays include San Francisco in the USA, Bantry Bay in Ireland, the Gulf of Morbihan in France, Rio Bay in Brazil, Diego Suarez Bay in Madagascar and the Geiranger Fjord in Norway.

Cape Town was recently also welcomed as a member of the Great Wine Capitals of the World network.

Major Revamp of South African Environmental Laws, July 22 2001

South Africa's environmental affairs and tourism department is embarking on a comprehensive law reform program, which will bring South Africa's environmental law in line with the constitution and international environmental law.

The new laws will force businesses to clean up their act when it comes to complying with environmental standards such as air and noise pollution. The reforms will also tighten loopholes businesses have used to avoid taking responsibility for their actions. Businesses can face harsh penalties such as fines and closures for noncompliance.

The department has indicated future revisions will take place on the laws relating to pollution and waste management, the conservation of biodiversity and the new laws on coastal and environment management.

Giant African Buffalo Fossils Found, July 22 2001 Fossilized bones of the extinct giant African buffalo were recently   unearthed on Eskom's Koeberg Nature Reserve on South Africa's Cape West Coast by an international team of experts.

The find dates back 300,000 years - a period in which very little is known about early humans and their interaction with wild animals.

Losing Battle for Kalahari Bushmen, July 22 2001

The modern world has barely touched the Kalahari desert, in the middle of Botswana. Nature, not man, governs the daily pattern of life. It is as bare, remote and harsh as life can get - and yet there is a natural, undisturbed order that gives this land its own sense of beauty. But yet people do live here, as they have done for nearly 30,000 years. This is home to the San people - or the Bushmen of the Kalahari. They have lived here as hunter-gatherers. Only several hundred remain on their ancestral lands. But now they face a battle to cling on to their way of life. The Botswanan Government is urging - some would say forcing - them to move.

Huddled around fires outside their huts in the cold early morning the villagers told me about their plight. "It's up to us, we will stay here even if they try to kill us", said 28-year-old Gakemothowasepe Molapong. "We know this land. We are as free as birds and we will live as we want."

It is a competition between the indigenous rights of the San people, and the economic interests of Botswana. The government says it wants to protect the wildlife, but many believe that they are motivated by the huge mineral wealth the Kalahari is believed to possess, including diamonds and possible uranium. And so, the government wants to relocate the San communities.

The Botswanan Government says that if they do move, they can provide them with a better life in relocation camps. The camps are located hundreds of miles away. It took six hours to drive to the main camp, New Xadi. It has many things that people would recognize as being part of the modern world. Most people live in houses, there is electricity. In stark contrast to their villages in the desert, you can hear the sound of radios around the camp and you can see quite a few consumer goods. The government provides them with regular food parcels. But despite this, those who have moved are now living a life of dependency. There is little sense of belonging amongst those that are now living in the camp. Instead, people who used to be self-reliant now live on handouts. They sit all day with nothing to do. Alcoholism is rife. Tsamxegea Dumela told me: "We don't have any work. Every day we get up, and the only time we move is to keep in the sunlight. That's all. We have nothing else to do."

On a farm on the outskirts of the town of Ghanzi, three Bushwomen gather wild roots and fruit. They have been able to live here and freely preserve their culture. They share the land with Andrea Hardbattle. She speaks their language, and considers these people as family. Her father was a policeman from a small village near Hull, in England. He settled here in the 1900s. He met and married her mother, who was a Bushwoman. When she was young and her mother was unable to breastfeed her, Andrea was instead breastfed by Nxaniki who still lives with Andrea. Nxaniki is 70. I spoke to her as she sat under a thorn tree, cooking as her still fit 90-year-old mother, looked on quietly smoking her home-made pipe. I asked Nxaniki how life had changed for the San people over the years. She looked at me quizzically, and said she would not know as she was still a young woman. But she acknowledged that she was fortunate to be able to live all her life, on her own land. Andrea Hardbattle says the Bush people are slowly losing the ability to shape their own lives. "Probably they'll eventually have to move," she says, "but a lot of them, particularly the old, are making a stand. "They were born on their ancestral lands in the Kalahari and they want to die there. "They don't want to move to these resettlement camps because they will feel totally lost. I think a lot of them will just die there." Andrea Hardbattle says the San people are not fighting against modernization, but they want the right to determine the pace of change and how they adapt their ancient culture to it.

The San people of the Kalahari are determined to prevent their way of life from simply disappearing. But they know all too well that the desert itself is set to change forever, as the mineral wealth that lies within its dry soil is developed - and as more and more tourists are drawn to this region.

In the face of this, they feel they are fighting a losing battle, but it is a battle they have to fight.

Prehistoric Footprints tell of Family Groups of Dinosaurs, July 22 2001

South African scientist Theagarten Lingham-Soliar last month discovered footprints in Zimbabwe's Zambezi Valley, indicating that carnivorous dinosaurs may have lived in complex family systems and hunted in packs.

The scientist, a senior lecturer in the department of zoology at the University of Durban-Westville, found a spot in a sandstone riverbed where at least three 5-meter carnivorous dinosaurs had crossed paths, perhaps within minutes of each other. According to Lingham-Soliar, this is perhaps the best evidence so far to indicate that this particular species, the Allosaurus, may have hunted in a group.

Many of the prints in the riverbed are impressed in different strata of the stone, meaning they were left at least 1, 000 years apart from each other.

"We have a large predator roaming around the region, unchanged for 1,000 years. To be able to pinpoint an animal for so long is critical," Lingham-Soliar is quoted as saying. "Nobody has been able to say before that this particular animal was around in this kind of environment for so long. It makes the Chewore site a very important area of the world for footprint studies.

Arnold Schwazenegger Visits Victoria Falls, July 22 2001

Movie superstar, Arnold Schwaznegger, visited the resort town of Victoria Falls last Tuesday afternoon. As word of his presence spread around the resort town, the police were forced to come to the rescue as the movie star was trailed by huge crowds as he went about his business.

Local People Get Land use Rights in Namibian Park, July 22 2001

The Topnaars, local inhabitants of the Kuiseb River area in Namibia's world-famous Namib Naukluft Park, have obtained the right to utilize the land for tourism purposes.

The Topnaar community will reportedly be granted long-term tourism concessions, allowing them to form joint partnerships with tour operators. Various development projects have already been identified and proposals submitted to the Namibian Ministry of Tourism and Environmental Affairs. The Ministry will be responsible for providing training and guidance on camp management, conservation and other matters.

Kenyan Visas Required for Scandinavian Countries, Spain and Ireland, July 29 2001

The Kenyan immigration department has introduced visas for Scandinavian countries (Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and Norway), Spain and Ireland from July 13, 2001. The visa fee remains at US $50 per person and visas can be obtained prior to your departure or at Kenya's Jomo Kenyatta Airport on arrival, although lines can be rather long and slow.

Jimmy Carter Visits Kenya's Governor's Camp, July 29 2001

Ex-US president Jimmy Carter recently spent several days bird watching at Little Governor's Camp in Kenya's Masai Mara Reserve. Over 1,065 species of birds have been recorded in Kenya.

Another Mountain Gorilla Killed in Crossfire, July 29 2001

International Gorilla Conservation Program (IGCP) Director, Dr. Annette Lanjouw, has reported that another endangered mountain gorilla has been killed in the crossfire in the Virungas. During the past two months, there has been an increase in fighting between rebel forces in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda and militia groups in eastern DRC. Much of the fighting is taking place in the forested Virunga volcanoes, home of the mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei). Only 350 gorillas remain in the Virunga Volcanoes, and they are coming under increased threat from the fighting.

According to the AWF, Rugendo, the dominant male silverback of one of the groups on the Congolese side of the border, was shot dead during clashes between the military and Interahamwe militia groups on July 15, 2001. The Interahamwe were the perpetrators of the 1994 genocide in Rwanda, where up to a million people were killed.

Dr. Lanjouw is quoted as saying that the loss of Rugendo is another tragedy for conservation for the efforts being made in Congo, Rwanda and Uganda to protect the gorillas from the consequences of the war, and to protect this endangered species for the future.

The Virunga region is home to one of the two remaining populations of the endangered mountain gorillas; the other population is found in Uganda's Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Together, these groups represent a world population of mountain gorillas of just over 650 individuals. IGCP, active in Rwanda since 1979 and throughout the Virunga region since 1991, is a joint initiative of the African Wildlife Foundation, Fauna and Flora International and the World Wildlife Fund.

Elephant Tramples Ethiopian Poacher to Death, July 29 2001

An elephant trampled an Ethiopian poacher to death last week when he tried to shoot the animal for its tusks. The enraged elephant also smashed the poacher's rifle to pieces. According to Ethiopian police, many poachers in the country had met similar fates.

Fire Guts Zimbabwe's Elephant Hills Hotel, July 29 2001

A combined team of Zambian and Zimbabwean fire fighters saved the Elephant Hills Hotel at Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe from total destruction after a fire razed through its western part.

Zimbabwean authorities called reinforcements from the Livingstone Fire Brigade and the Zambia Air Force Fire Service after they failed to contain the inferno believed to have been caused by a short circuit in the electrical system. Zambian fire crews arrived at the scene just at the time the fire was spreading to the hotel's eastern wing and managed to put it out.

Archaeologists Reconstruct Ancient Zimbabwean City, July 29 2001

A team of French and African archaeologists have begun reconstruction of the ancient ruined city of Khami in southern Zimbabwe, near Bulawayo. Archaeologists and students from France, Reunion Island, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Ghana, Mali and Namibia hope to restore much of the stone-walled hill-top citadel and a 500 meter stone passageway leading to the complex. The Khami Ruins have been listed as one of the world's 100 most endangered major historical sites by the World Monuments Watch, and are believed to have been abandoned in the 8th century.

Zimbabwe's Matopos may Receive World Heritage Site Status, July 29 2001

Zimbabwe's Matopo Conservation Society has submitted a formal proposal to the World Heritage Committee on June 30 this year, applying for World Heritage Site status for the world-famous Matopo Hills.

The proposal emphasizes the unique biodiversity and geography of the area, which has the largest number of tree species in Zimbabwe. The Matopo Hills area is also home to the largest concentration of leopard in the world and the world's oldest rocks are found there. Furthermore, the proposal also emphasizes the cultural and religious significance of ancient pre-colonial stone-walled African cities and shrines in the region, and the mountain-top grave of British imperialist, Cecil John Rhodes.

The Heritage Committee is meeting in December to decide on new World Heritages Sites.

SA Airlink introduces Flights to Namibia, July 29 2001

On July 9, South African Airlink introduced daily flights from Cape Town to Windhoek - Eros Airport. Every weekday the flights depart at 10:30 AM from Cape Town to Windhoek, arriving at 11:30 AM. The aircraft will then depart from Windhoek at 12:00 PM to arrive in Cape Town at 3:00 PM. For these flights, the airline will make use of its new 37- seat Brazilian Embraer jet aircraft.

Cape Town Airport Spends Millions on Extra Security, July 29 2001

The Airports Company South Africa (ACSA) is to spend 6.6 million Rand (US $820,000) on a security upgrade at Cape Town International Airport. The new safety measures will complement existing measures consisting of almost 200 CCTV cameras, which are strategically placed in and around the airport and a special crime squad which patrols the parking areas. A comprehensive traffic control management plan will be implemented as from August 1, 2001. The new plans include the installation of 60 additional CCTV cameras and a modernized camera control room, an increase in the number of police officers and improvements in perimeter fence and access controls including the closure of Michigan road which links the airport to the neighboring industrial area.

Charlize Theron's Effort to Save Tame Rhino Suffers Setback, July 29 2001

South African-born Hollywood actress Charlize Theron's effort to save the rare east African black rhino, Baixinha, from a canned hunt has suffered a major setback. Ms. Theron is negotiating on behalf of the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) to have Baixinha released into a South African wildlife sanctuary, SanWild.

American businessman David Laylin, who owns the rhino cow, originally wanted 480, 000 Rand (US $58,000) for Baixinha, but has now raised the asking price to 800,000 Rand (US $98,000). Laylin is trying to recover his losses after failed attempts to breed with the rare rhino species.

Animal welfare organizations and celebrities worldwide, including Ms Theron, have joined the battle to try and save the tame rhino from certain death.

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