ULTIMATE AFRICA SAFARIS
Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive June 2002 Tortilis Camp Refurbished, June 2 2002 Tortilis Camp at Kenya's famed Amboseli National Park has had a "face-lift" - all 17 tents have been replaced with larger tents made out of light beige canvas, giving a brighter, airy feeling to each room, in keeping with the light and space of the Amboseli plains that they overlook. The furnishings have also been overhauled with a light wooden blanket chest and stripped wooden shelves replacing the dark furniture. New bedcovers, linens, towels and many more finishing touches have added to the comfort and cozy feeling of each tent. The main building has also been revitalized with new cushions and chair covers and plans are underway to completely overhaul and redesign the bar area. Poolside a shower and toilet have been added to the pool bar area. New managers Bart and Mary will also be adding their own flair and character to the lodge over the next few months. With regards to wildlife in the area recent months have seen an increasing number of elephants and a growing lion population moving in from the Chyulu Hills and Kilimanjaro territories. The rains have left the plains lush and green with exciting numbers and varieties of water birds. Cheli and Peacock's Mara Camp Update, June 2 2002 The plentiful rain in the Mara during the last few weeks has greened up the plains and filled all the dry water courses and holes and the animals have dispersed over a wide area. The Musiara Marsh is still popular with the elephant with over 250 counted recently by visitors to Mara Camp. The Acacia Pride of lion (2 males & 6 females) has three new junior members and 2 more cubs have been sighted with the Marsh Pride. Leopard have been regularly sighted around camp although the cheetah family have moved off to a new hunting ground. Cheli and Peacock's Mara Camp is now closed for the season, the whole camp packed into lorries and stored until it is put up again in June, to allow the grass and bush to regenerate, in line with Cheli & Peacock's environmental policy to leave no traces of habitation in this beautiful wilderness area. When the camp goes up again it's with a whole new look, new managers and even new toilets! Flush toilets (formerly used at the Laikipia Camp) will go into each en-suite bathroom. Also hand carved wooden beds and other decorative furnishings in the tents and a bigger mess tent with sofas and scatter cushions to enhance the comfort and welcome of this traditional seasonal bush camp. Kiwayu Update, June 2 2002 Kiwayu is located Kenya's tropical coast. Kiwayu is now closed after a busy season. At Christmas and New Year they welcomed the usual eclectic mix of Royals, celebrities and other pleasure seekers, including the Director of the groundbreaking Harry Potter film, taking a well earned barefoot break... Kenyan Elections Set for December 2002, June 2 2002 Kenya's Presidential elections have been tentatively been set for December 2002. The elections are of great significance as Daniel Arap Moi, Kenya's president for the past 24 years will be retiring. Kenya Airways Targets Tanzania, June 2 2002 Kenya Airways, one of Africa's most profitable airlines, plans to bid for a stake in rival Air Tanzania, 75% of which is due to be privatized this year. "We believe Tanzania is a growing market, its economy is thriving and producing consistently high growth rates," Kenya Airways managing director Brian Presbury said, after reporting the company's results last Thursday. Kenya Airways reported a full-year pre-tax profit of US $11.1 million, down from US $26.3 million last year. This comes at a time when most major US and European airlines are making record losses. Kenya Airways plans to make an initial bid for 49% of Air Tanzania, with the eventual aim of buying the entire stake on sale. Bids close on 31 July, 2002. The Tanzanian government said earlier this month that eight airlines had shown interest including: South African Airways, South Africa's Comair, South Africa's Nationwide, Ireland's Air Consult International, Pakistan's Aero Asia International, and Tanzania's Precision Air. Last year, Kenya Airways increased its capacity by leasing a number of Boeing 767s. Dutch carrier KLM owns 26% of Kenya Airways, the Kenyan government 23% and the rest of the shares are traded on the Nairobi and Uganda Stock Exchanges. Ethiopia's Wildlife on Brink of Extinction, June 2 2002 Ethiopia is in imminent danger of losing its rare wildlife according to the Ethiopian based National Institute of Biodiversity Conservation and Research (ICBR). At least four mammals and two bird species are facing extinction, the wildlife institute said. According to experts the Walia ibex, Ethiopian wolf, mountain nyala and Grevy zebras as well as the white-winged fluff tail and Ankober Serin bird species are all threatened. The institute said there are only 514 Walia ibex, less than 2,000 mountain nyala and 800 Grevy zebras remaining. Wildlife experts say the rare species - all of which are endemic to Ethiopia - need a minimum population of around 2,500 to survive. "Unless we enhance their conservation they will definitely disappear," said Dr. Abebe Demissie, general manager at the IBCR. A further nine big mammal species and 14 bird species are also vulnerable, according to the institute. The IBCR says that massive deforestation in Ethiopia is one of the primary reasons for declining wildlife species in the country. "At the turn of the century 35% of the country was was covered with forests. Now the forests have been degraded to such a level that only 2.7% of the land is forested. This has a major implication on the wildlife. If the forests are gone the wildlife goes. At the turn of the century you would see lions around Addis Ababa" said Dr. Abebe Demissie. He stressed that the loss of forests not only drives wildlife away but also affects the climate of the region and water preservation. "It has a huge socio-economic impact. It is a very serious problem." The IBCR says the international community needs to recognize the dangers that Ethiopia faces and offer financial support. "We should be prepared to reverse the trend now in terms of forest degradation, in terms of loss of wildlife," Abebe said."The bottom line is poverty really. If you alleviate the poverty in this country you will definitely have an impact in terms of conservation," he added. With New Fleet, SAA Gets Leaner, Better, June 2 2002 To stay ahead of its competition South African Airways (SAA) recently launched a new campaign - Perfecting the Basics - under which it will spend US $3.5 billion to renew its fleet. Boeing 767s will be replaced with newer, more modern, efficient and quiet Airbus 340-600s in a phased program to be completed in 2012. According to the President and Chief Executive Officer, André Viljoen, SAA has chosen in Airbus - a less expensive, more efficient aircraft - a suitable partner to help turn around the airline to profitability and competitiveness. Viljoen said Airbuses give 10% more capacity, and can be more flexibly deployed on any of SAA's routes. The fleet change is part of a wider, longer-term strategy to transform SAA into Africa's leading airline, the choice for international travelers and tourists. It will create more seats, allow the company to broaden its route network, and among other perks, introduce direct flights to Milan and Copenhagen. Viljoen also noted the new fleet will enable SAA to meet noise requirements at overseas airports, cut costs on maintenance and fuel, and ensure long-term sustainability. It also fits in well with the campaign to promote tourism. SAA has undoubtedly been the backbone of the tourism industry in South Africa by flying visitors to the majority of the country's tourist attractions. More passengers on airplanes, means more guests in hotels. More visitors to South Africa's attractions means more jobs and a better quality of life for our people; that's what this is about. But we are not sitting here waiting for the new fleet. We have installed new business class seats on the B737-800s. Winglets are being retrofitted to reduce fuel consumption. Turn around time for our domestic fleet has been reduced. This will free up at least four aircraft that we can then use elsewhere. SAA has been in this business since the 1930's and is one of the oldest carriers on this continent. Our strategy of "Perfecting the Basics" is focused on identifying and satisfying the customers' needs. We encourage competition. We are committed to Africa. Our place as the leader on the continent was recently underlined when we again won the award this year for Best Airline in Africa. Bright Outlook for Zimbabwean Tourism Industry, June 2 2002 Over the past four years, the Zimbabwean tourism industry has experienced a drop in the number of tourist arrivals, from just over 2 million in 1999 to slightly more than 1.5 million in 2001. The downturn has largely been attributed to the negative publicity the country received with regards to the recently completed parliamentary and Presidential elections. Mr. George Pangeti, the chief executive of Zimbabwe Association of Tour and Safari Operators, said "the resilience of the industry can be attributed to the two solar eclipses in two consecutive years and the magnificent tourist resorts which include the Victoria Falls, Great Zimbabwe, Eastern Highlands and the well-preserved wildlife areas. Zimbabweans have also been known to be very hospitable and this has given the industry an edge over their competitors from within the region." Recent developments have also worked to the advantage of the tourism industry in the country: The just completed visit by a high powered delegation of American travel executives coincided with the lifting of travel warnings by several European countries and the United States leading many industry players to believe good times lie ahead. Meikles Hotel Opens North Wing, June 2 2002 Zimbabwe's famous Meikles Hotel in Harare has re-opened its North Wing which was closed nearly two years ago as a result of the downturn in tourism caused by socio-economic and political turmoil. Meikles general manager, Karl Snater, said that the re-opening of some floors in the 12-story North Wing was a sign of confidence in the outlook for tourism and underlined Meikles' hope of increased levels of business. Snater said: "We hope the strong promotional efforts being made by Meikles Africa Limited in a range of markets will bear fruit and that guest arrivals, particularly from regional and international source markets, will increase in the short to medium term." Snater said that, as part of Meikles' marketing efforts, tour operators from the United Kingdom would be brought to Zimbabwe next month and a media group would follow in July 2002. Meikles has also appointed an international public relations company to help boost business. Meikles was established in 1915 and it has two accommodation wings, the North Wing and the South Wing. The North Wing, which was redeveloped in the 1990s from a six-story block to a 12 story-block, is an all-suite wing with conference and banqueting rooms. Zimbabwe Defers Introduction Of New Departure Fees, June 2 2002 Zimbabwe's airport departure tax for international travelers was set to increase from US $20 per person to US $40 per person and the introduction of a domestic passenger departure tax of US $10 per person, originally scheduled for 1 June 2002, has been postponed until September 2002. The Civil Aviation Authority of Zimbabwe has ambitious plans to upgrade Zimbabwe's airports and the upping of departure fees was seen as a means of raising revenue. US Travel Executive Praises Zimbabwe, June 2 2002 John Smith, the head of a group of American travel executives who recently visited Zimbabwe praised the country as "Africa's paradise". The American Travel Bureau team pledged to market Zimbabwe as a safe tourist destination. Smith said: "When we read the newspapers we thought we would see riots in the streets but we did not see any. I don't know where the information in the media is coming from. I am happy to say Zimbabwe has proven to be Africa's paradise." Kenya's Elephants Face Renewed Pressure, June 9 2002 The man credited with saving Kenya's elephants from destruction by ivory poachers more than a decade ago says the species is once again at risk. Dr. Richard Leakey, who as director of the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) introduced stringent anti-poaching measures in the late 1980s, says a new market for ivory has arisen since then. He says Asian elephants have suffered horrendous losses in the last decade. And he fears that African elephants will be targeted next. Dr Leakey said: "It's entirely plausible that 80% of wild Asian elephants have gone in the last 10 years. There are now only about 35,000 left, maybe 30,000. A large part of the success of the ban on the international ivory trade introduced in 1989 wasn't a piece of legal paper - it was a change in public attitudes. That was why the bottom fell out of the trade." He said that the modern wealth explosion in China was partly to blame. "In 1989 China was a poor country, but it's grown phenomenally. Since the earliest emperors, ivory has been a mark of value in China. Now, in effect, you've got a hundred million emperors, with traditional ivory carvers on their doorstep in places like Hong Kong. I think that will create a demand that will be fed by an illegal supply." With ivory now fetching $150 a pound in south-east Asia, he said, there was an inevitable "suction" effect that would encourage renewed poaching in Africa. "Whether or not there's a trade ban is irrelevant. There's a huge new market, and we have to return to the trenches. That means Africa is going to have to protect elephants effectively again - more money, more people, more guns." Dr Leakey was careful not to stigmatize the Chinese. "I don't think the government in Beijing wants to be responsible for the elephants' extinction", he said. "The Chinese are very practical people, they have a credible environmental record. Tell them the facts, get Chinese non-government organizations, which are good, to create the public attitudes which made such a difference in the West. The conservation community must reach out to China. As for the poachers, I'd go back to my old policies - hit them hard." But it is habitat loss, not poaching, that Dr Leakey blames for the threat he sees to many other species. Last year, he said in a speech that the Earth was probably approaching a sixth mass extinction. "From paleontology there are precedents for loss of biodiversity, and they're pretty catastrophic. Habitat loss through human pressure and climate change is having - and will have - fantastic implications. I don't know the timescale, but from the geological record we know that climate change moves along pretty fast once it gets going. All the signs are that it's going very fast now - and we're not responding quickly. "The next 50 years will be pretty dramatic. It's quite wrong to propose a doomsday scenario, but I think a wake-up call is required. For tropical countries like Kenya, beset by problems like poverty and the balance of trade, rising to the challenge is a tough call. But this is one world, and its health is important to all of us." Tethered Balloon at Victoria Falls Closed, June 9 2002 Shearwater's balloon excursions at Victoria Falls have been suspended until further notice. They advise that they do not intend to abandon this operation in total however helium gas needed to keep the balloon afloat, which is imported from the USA, has increased in cost by over 600% since the launch of the balloon in February 2000. King's Pool Tented Camp May Report, June 9 2002 King's Pool Tented Camp is located in wildlife rich northern Botswana. Here is the camp's May report: One of the highlights this month would most definitely have been the presence of a leopard in camp. He was the most relaxed leopard that we have ever come across and he hung around as if he wanted our company. When walking a guest from his or her room the leopard would come running past with baboons chasing him - all very exciting! He has been seen in the vicinity many times. Other wildlife has also been amazing! We have had lions through camp many times, treating us to great morning wakeups. A male lion has been roaring across the river. This has attracted our two males who have been responding. The King's Pool pride has 3 cubs which are growing. They are currently busy feeding of a giraffe that they killed two days ago. We should not forget the ever present elephants in and around the camp. Our sunken hide is proving a very popular place to be, even the hide within camp is very productive with elephants feeding off the fever berries meters from the front! The buffalo are back in the area and are regularly seen. With regard to the weather it has been very comfortable, with chilly mornings mixed with warm to hot afternoons. Mombo Camp May Update, June 9 2002 Mombo Camp is located within Botswana's famed Moremi Wildlife Reserve. Here is the camp's May update: May has been a month of contrasts - rising floodwaters have painted golden floodplains an emerald green and herds of buffalo and lechwe are enjoying this new food bonanza. The weather has been remarkably warm with just the odd cold snap hinting at winter. The camp has been exceptionally busy and feedback from guests as well has been outstanding with the obvious highlight for everyone being the incredible wildlife viewing! Big breeding herds of elephants have returned and have joined up with the smaller numbers of elephant that have been around all summer, and have provided guests with some special moments. It is quite amazing watching familiar herds returning and teaching their young the favorite feeding grounds and drinking spots. The big cats have also been obliging. 3 of our lion prides have tiny cubs some of which were brought out of hiding by their mothers for the first time - little bundles of fur with blue eyes! The dominant Wheatfield boys still hold their own and hopefully will continue to do so giving the new cubs a good chance of surviving. Female leopards have been hotly contesting the recently tragically vacated territory of the Bird Island female - still no clear winners as yet! The Burned Ebony male has totally recovered from his brush with death last month and remains fully in control of his kingdom! A female cheetah was seen with 2 approximately 6 week old cubs after a fairly long absence and will hopefully remain in the area. Wild dogs were seen as well - a pack of 10 ran in, caused some panic amongst the impala and then ran out 2 days later! We were hoping they were searching for a den site in the area but alas they have not been seen since! A nomadic male lion seen quite frequently around camp provided some action in camp by hunting a herd of buffalo who had bedded down for the night in camp. He managed to get right amongst the herd and dash in to grab a small calf before the panicked buffalo regrouped and started chasing him around the tents! Eventually the buffalo retreated and the lion was able to claim his meal and drag it to a palm island to eat in peace. All of this was observed by 15 very excited guests crammed into room 8! The rhinos have settled in and apart from a couple who appear to enjoy extensive wanderings - they are all still around Chief's Island. There have been frequent sightings of them on wildlife viewing drives and we suspect that 2 have possibly even starting mating! Chikwenya Camp May Report, June 9 2002 Chikwenya Camp is located along the border of northern Zimbabwe's remote Mana Pools National Park. Here is the camp's May report. Zimbabwe is still alive and well and the wildlife is flourishing! 2002 is the 20th year of Chikwenya´s operation, built in 1982 by John Stevens. The camp has seen a lot of change during this time but it is still the same amazing piece of paradise that so many have fallen in love with. Many people have passed through here and have participated in a fantastic experience, some as staff and most as guests - a lot of these people returning time after time. The same group of elephants that have been around the camp for at least thirteen years have moved back in and are being seen almost daily in or around the camp. The old matriarch, a large and very placid tusk-less cow, appears to have found the mythical elephant graveyard and moved on to other grazing grounds. It will be very interesting to spend some time following the herd and observe who has taken over as matriarch and what the herd structure is now. The herd has certainly grown and has also split into sub-herds; what look to be like approximately 6 month old twins being the latest addition. The leopard sightings are getting progressively better but unfortunately the large baboon population in the open woodland is hindering daytime viewing, as the baboons react aggressively to any leopards seen. Two sub-adult leopards are very relaxed and are often seen near the camp. A small group of young and wary eland wandered into the concession and were seen on a number of days, a very early sighting for us. Normally these large and beautiful antelope are only seen from about August onwards. At the moment the herds are away from the river, being a browser they can normally extract all their moisture requirements from their food and only when the Acacia albidas start dropping their highly nutritious pods do they make their way down into the open woodlands. Porcupine are very active throughout the concession and are being seen frequently on the night drives, their spoor also being found in the camp and along the roads every morning. Temperatures have been surprisingly warm for this time of the year and probably this, plus the late rain we had in April, has led to numerous plant species still flowering and fruiting totally out of season. The attractive and delicate flowers of the Zambezi tail-flower are blooming, their long petals fluttering in the breeze deceive one of the deadly nature of this plant, a common source of poison by the San people for their arrows for hunting. Bird sightings have included Narina Trogon, purple banded and coppery sunbirds, large numbers of white breasted and black cuckooshrikes, yellow-spotted nicators, Livingstone's and paradise flycatchers, red- throated twinspots, rednecked falcons, a bathawk, osprey, cape teal, black stork, openbill storks and collared palm thrushes being some of the best sightings. South Africa Experiences Tourism Boom, June 16 2002 South African tourism minister Valli Moosa recently noted that South Africa is experiencing a "tourism boom". In his budget speech at the National Council of Provinces, Moosa said that tourism to South Africa had grown by 21% in the past year. The boom is set to continue, with tens of thousands expected to arrive for the August World Summit on Sustainable Development, and next year's Cricket World Cup. Life at Victoria Falls, June 16 2002 Professional Zimbabwe guide Steve Bolnick lives at Victoria Falls where he runs his safari operation. Check out a few days in Steve's life… "Last week while walking to work I came across a herd of nine bull elephants. It took a little while to get past them and so I was late for work, but I was also exhilarated. The following day while walking to a meeting I disturbed three buffalo from their sleep. I was as surprised to see them, as they were to see me. My heart rate increased a little but my day was all the better for the chance encounter. This morning on my way from dropping kids at school, I saw a herd of 20 buffalo and then two bull elephants. One of the elephants cautiously approached my vehicle and touched it gently with his foot before continuing on his way." In terms of access to wildlife, Victoria Falls must be the most unique town in the world. Everyone who lives at the Falls is privileged to live in harmony with the wildlife there. However as the human population of this town has grown and the economy has weakened in recent years, poaching has increased. It is only through the dedicated work of the Department. of National Parks and the Victoria Falls private sector Anti-Poaching Unit, that Steve is still able to enjoy encounters such as the one he described above. The Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit is wholly funded by the private sector and has been extremely successful in preventing poaching - by constant patrolling, collecting of wire snares and apprehending poachers. Steve assists whenever necessary by darting any snared animals that may be found, treating, and releasing them. He does this on a voluntary basis, but the drugs required are extremely costly. Over the 4th and 5th of July, Ian Walker (British friend) and Steve Bolnick will be conducting a grueling 80 kilometer walk through 3 countries and two National Parks, in order to raise funds for the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit and the purchase of animal immobilization drugs. Both Ian and Steve have requested financial support for the walk and the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit. Ian Walker and Steve conducted a similar walk in 1998. The money raised was used to support poor rural schools and to supply running water to communities outside Victoria Falls. The trust started with that money is still being used to support education amongst the poorest communities in the area. All money raised by this walk will be managed by the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit account. The unit is housed at and supported by the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the account is audited by them. If you would like to pledge support for this cause, please contact Ultimate Africa Safaris Seattle office by email at info@ultimateafrica.com. Kwando's Wild Dogs Are Back, June 16 2002 The Kwando Concession in northern Botswana is the largest private wildlife area in the country. For the 6th consecutive year a well known pack of wild dogs have decided to set up home about 7 kilometers from Kwando's Lagoon camp. Since 1997, the experienced Kwando Safaris trackers have managed to locate the den sites of this pack of wild dogs (averaging 16 individuals).Each year the competition amongst the guides and trackers to be the first to locate the den site is intense. Not only is this a first in Botswana in terms of locating the den site(s) for 6 years in a row, but also there are a number of other secrets that the Kwando guides are revealing about these fascinating animals, their behavior, and unique social system. Never before has it been recorded that one female, the alpha female, can remain dominant so consistently, and give birth and raise an average of over 10 pups per year, and a total of 59 to date! Besides viewing the interesting behavior associated with the den, hunting wild dogs have allowed Kwando guests to witness some unique experiences in the last 5 years. They have hunted and interacted with some interesting species - from leopard to the shy pangolin. The antics of the puppies around the den site leaves guests enthralled. In terms of pure excitement and the most dramatic visual display of animal behavior, the wild dogs are by far the most interesting of the African predators. North Island Update, June 16 2002 Conrad Hennig, one of Wilderness Safaris top guides recently visited the North Island project in the Indian Ocean. North Island is situated neat the Seychelles and is set to open no later than March 1, 2003. Here is Conrad's report: Wow, what a shock to the system. I was expecting a change, and prepared myself for it, but nothing could have prepared me for what I experienced now, relative to what was before. In one word: stunning. The first villa which is 80% done was quite something. Words to describe the villa for me include: zen, balanced, incredibly spacious but not too big (since it is literally is made up of various "cubes", each of which has its own character and style). I really expected that at 5,000 square feet, that the villa was going to be BIG, but it actually isn't. The detail which the Zanzibaris and Patrick are putting in is nothing short of sensational. I loved the floors in particular- the kitchenette and secondary bedroom's bathroom are stunning. Actually the whole villa is sensational. I do feel that without doubt, this is the most incredible "lodge" that I have seen. Also, whilst I was there, it was also good to learn that the main bedroom, although air-conditioned, was really quite comfortable with just the breeze. I also enjoyed the landscaping - I thought that the units might be close together and that privacy was going to be an issue, but the way that the guys have landscaped the surrounding area insuring privacy is excellent Wildebeest Migration Update, June 16 2002 Hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebra are finally on their way across the Serengeti, migrating towards greener grasses via the Grumeti River and Ndabaka Plains. The vast majority of migratory wildebeest and zebra were in and around the Seronera River Valley with movement west towards Kirawira. Famous East African Wildlife Photographer Passes On, June 16 2002 Sadly, Baron Hugo Van Lawick, the famous Dutch filmmaker passed away last week at his home in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Hugo's contribution to worldwide awareness of Tanzania's natural history will live on through his countless films produced in Tanzania's National Parks and Reserves. In a fitting tribute, Baron Hugo Van Lawick was afforded a State Funeral and laid to rest on the site where his tent stood for so many years facing west towards the sunset near Lake Ndutu. Tarangire National Park Update, June 16 2002 Pratik and Sonia Patel who run Tanzania Photographic Safaris in Arusha, Tanzania recently visited Tarangire National Park and noted the following: "On my recent trip to Tarangire National park, I experienced amazing sights as all the wildlife from the Simanjiro Plain's are making their way back into the park. We saw over 300 elephants in approximately 2 hours of driving, around Silale swamp. We drove further 10 kilometers south of Larmakau and ran into a herd of approximately 1,500 buffalo - one of the best sightings we've had in the last 2 years. We've had good rain this year, fortunately it has been light showers over the last 2 to 3 months, so there are no major road or bridge washouts. The vegetation is green, lush and healthy. Unfortunately the river is looking very low for this time of the year and surveying all the major waterholes, it looks like the waterholes are all going to dry out earlier than expected inside and outside the park, hence forcing the wildlife to concentrate around the river. Robin Popes Weekly Safari Update, June 16 2002 Robin and Jo Pope are two of Zambia's most well known safari personalities. The run a safari operation in the country's South Luangwa. Here is their weekly update: Finally winter has arrived - we think! It is a rare luxury to wear long pants and shoes during the day...I've almost forgotten what it is like! It is especially lovely to sit close to the Nkwali campfire at sunset sipping some of Shanie's rather addictive mulled wine! Some have taken to swimming in the pool in the early mornings and in the late afternoons. The water is lovely once immersed in it... Happily the chilly weather hasn't stopped the wildlife from going about their business, much to the delight of guests. Nkwali has seen the return of the ele's which have been wandering through the camp during the daylight hours. Two large bull elephant, one with two large tusks and the other with just one, recently walked along the edge of river feeding along the way. Twice they have stopped outside my house and have begun to tear strips off my favorite acacia tree! The other day I was trapped inside my house and unable to get back to the office until they moved on - better than being stuck in a traffic jam I guess! Keyala was taking guests on an early morning walk in the Chichele area the other day when the group found lion spoor. They followed the spoor for a while but could not locate the cats. Later that same afternoon they drove back to the same area and were rewarded with the sighting of two male lion. Whilst the group were quietly watching they could hear a very distinctive and clear lion cub mewing noises coming from underneath a culvert. From the sounds Keyala thinks that the baby cubs are only a couple of weeks old. One of the two males would most likely be the father. How exciting! Nsefu Camp has had an outstanding start to the season. Jason and Buffy report that wildlife viewing has been very good indeed. Paul has become known as the Cat King with every drive he has taken resulting in at least one leopard sighting! He is seeing lots of cats including a large male leopard sleeping atop a termite mound all afternoon (perfect camera moment!) and a serval cat at the salt pan. Leopard sightings have been ABSOLUTELY outstanding! On one night, between Jacob and Daudi (who had come across from Tena Tena Camp) five different leopard were seen on the same night! Of course this sighting rate cannot be guaranteed throughout the season and I don't want to press the point too often about leopard at Nsefu, but Jason was so excited I just had to share it all this week! Jason also tells me that there have been quite a few sightings of Pel's fishing owl this week and a large buffalo herd on Mtanda Plain. Daudi, on his way from Tena Tena, saw a bushy tailed mongoose chasing a scrub hare - quite a rare sight! So lots of action up in the Nsefu Sector along with the bush looking absolutely beautiful and the birding excellent. At this time of year everything smells so fresh, being the end of the rains and a lot of the bush is still quite green. It is the perfect time of year for early morning walks - extremely refreshing! Confusion over Kenya's Presidential Elections, June 23 2002 Kenya's President Daniel arap Moi has said the country's Presidential election will be held by the end of 2002. But the veteran leader also defended the parliament's right to change the poll date. There was furious criticism both from Kenyans and foreign diplomats when the president's ruling party, Kanu, proposed to extend parliament until well into next year. But the president's remarks have only added to the confusion This poll is one of the most crucial since Kenya's independence. After more than two decades in power, President Moi, one of Africa's longest-serving leaders, is due to step down. The problem is that President Moi has not designated a successor. Behind the scenes there is a bitter power struggle going on within Kanu. The opposition parties are also in disarray and they cannot agree on a single candidate. Wilderness Dawning to use Maun Lodge, June 23 2002 Botswana's Wilderness Dawning Safaris will no longer accommodate guests on their safaris at Riley's Hotel in Maun citing declining levels of service and accommodations. All future clients will be overnighted at the Maun Lodge. This change affects all clients booked on our Classic Botswana Tented Safaris who are overnighting in Maun. US President to Visit Africa, June 23 2002 United States President George W Bush has announced plans to visit Africa next year. Speaking at a dinner in Washington honoring the late anti-apartheid activist Leon Sullivan, President Bush vowed that the United States will help African nations with responsible policies to help combat disease, poverty and illiteracy. President Bush's Africa trip will follow in the footsteps of former US President Bill Clinton's journeys to sub-Saharan Africa in 1998 and 2000. SAA, Airbus Sign Deal for New Fleet, June 23 2002 South African Airway's US $3.5-billion fleet renewal program, which will see the airline acquire 41 aircraft over the next eight years, is the largest order for jetliners ever placed by a commercial carrier in the southern hemisphere. The deal between SAA and pan-European giant Airbus, which was signed at the aircraft manufacturer's headquarters in Toulouse, south of Paris, last Wednesday, will see the national carrier taking delivery of the first planes by December this year. The fleet renewal program will see SAA acquire nine A340-600 ultra-long-haul planes, six A340-300/E long-haul and peak domestic route carriers, and 26 of the smaller A319 and the A320 aircraft for domestic flights. Rare Species Spotted after 70 Years, June 23 2002 Not since a British explorer spotted an elusive member of the mongoose family in 1932 has the animal been seen - until now! The meter-long mammal was recently photographed by a remote camera trap on the eastern side of Tanzania's Udzungwa Mountains National Park. A scientist from the Bronx Zoo-based Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) noted that the carnivore, known as Lowe's servaline genet, had never been photographed before. "We now hope to find out more about the animal and thus help ensure its survival." The creature was first described by British explorer and naturalist Willoughby Lowe. It is thought to be nocturnal and to live in trees. Mala Mala Leopards to be on MSNBC, June 30 2002 Two exciting video productions filmed on Mala Mala Game Reserve by Kim Wolhuter are scheduled to be broadcast on National Geographic Explorer on MSNBC on June 30 at 8:00 PM eastern time. The films "Stalking Leopards" and "Living with Leopards" were filmed over a period of two years. BBC Filming in Cape Town, June 30 2002 The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) currently has a two-person team in Cape Town making a special report on the city for the new BBC program called "50 Places To See Before You Die'". This is a special one-off travel program from the makers of the flagship BBC Holiday Program, Britain's longest running travel show. Cape Town's Chapman's Peak Scheduled to Reopen, June 30 2002 Chapman's Peak, one of the most scenic routes in Cape Town, which has been closed to traffic for the past two years due to the danger of rock falls, is scheduled to re-open in time for the southern hemisphere's summer season of 2003/2004. Construction is scheduled to commence next month. Chapman's Peak Drive is to become a toll road, with toll charges of R17,50 (US $1.75) per one-way trip. Toll plazas will be built at Noordhoek and Hout Bay. Green Challenge for South African Tourism, June 30 2002 The South African hospitality industry is being challenged to make a fundamental change in the way it does business ahead of the World Summit for Sustainable Development (WSSD). Hotels and restaurants are being asked to sign a statement of intent committing them to implementing a responsible tourism program. Responsible tourism helps build environment protection and social and economic development programs. It ensures the sustainable development of local resources; encourages natural, cultural and social diversity; and involves local communities by ensuring they derive economic benefits from tourism ventures. Guidelines for the development of responsible tourism have been drawn up by the South African Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism. As part of the campaign, the Federated Hospitality Industry of South Africa (Fedhasa) is running the Imvelo (Zulu for "nature") Awards. The awards will showcase the South African hospitality industry's environmental protection, social and economic development programs. "Given that South Africa's tourism marketing campaigns include our wildlife and beaches as attractions and focus on our cultural diversity, the country's hospitality industry is under increasing pressure to implement responsible tourism programs," says Fedhasa executive director Willem Fick."Increasingly international tour operators are asking potential South African partners what they are doing about responsible tourism." The Imvelo Awards will be presented on August 22, on the eve of the WSSD. Awards will be granted for the best community involvement program, the best contribution towards natural environment program, the best air quality program, the best waste management program, the best energy management campaign and the best water conservation campaign, among others. "There must be a long-term commitment to developing responsible tourism - this cannot just be a quick 'green-washing' of the industry ahead of the summit," says Fick. As part of the initiative, the national Department of Water Affairs and Forestry is taking the lead in a project to ensure that hotels and restaurants in Gauteng are using, and conserving, water efficiently. The main aim of the project is to investigate the potential to improve water management and conservation in the hospitality industry. The project will develop strategies and business plans to manage water efficiently in hotels, restaurants and conference venues, especially those that will cater for delegates attending WSSD. It aims not just to cut back on water wastage during the summit, but to ensure that the hospitality industry uses it more efficiently long after the gathering. It is hoped that the "best practice" water management and conservation strategies used by hotels and restaurants in Gauteng, in the run-up to the summit, will be later used in hotels across South Africa. The project will look at improving technology, plumbing fixtures and repairing leaks in hotels, conference venues and restaurants; reducing effluent; running a water conservation awareness campaign for staff and delegates; and identifying opportunities for the sustainable use of alternative resources, like ground- and recycled water. The Sandton Convention Centre, the venue for the heads of state summit, has put a range of sustainable development policies in place and is actively pursuing a "Green Plan". Guidelines for the plan include the use of as much natural material as practicable to furnishings. All glass is recycled at the center and each administration office in Sandton Convention Centre is equipped with a recycle bin for discarded paper, cardboard, plastic and cans. This is compacted, bailed and recycled. Garbage is also compacted, bailed and disposed of at an accredited site. The fluorescent lighting tubes are crushed on site and disposed of at a hazardous waste site by an accredited contractor who provides a confirmation certificate on request. All proceeds received for recycled products go into a Nedbank Green bank account for charitable purposes. The center's Green Plan also focuses on conserving lighting and air conditioning. In individual units, such as an exhibition hall, air conditioning is only switched on two hours before an activity starts and switched off again an hour after the scheduled shut-down time. Gametrackers Botswana Update, June 30 2002 Gametrackers Botswana was voted Africa's leading safari operator in 2001 at the World Travel Awards. Please find their May 2002 update below: The weather throughout the region has been typical for this time of the year. Days have been warm to hot with cloudless skies, whilst the nights have been on the cooler side. The lowest recorded temperature for the month was 8 degrees Celsius and the highest was 35 degrees Celsius. The Okavango floodwaters have arrived! Much to the joy of guests and staff alike the annual flood waters started to enter the Xaxaba lagoon at Eagle Island Camp on the 18th. With the water levels now at 90cm at the jetty, the motorboats have been put back into operation. Mike reports that the Boro Channel (main channel) just in front of Eagle Island Camp is flowing strongly with the recently burnt areas being transformed into beautiful lakes and lagoons. Further to the northeast at Khwai River lodge it appears that the Khwai River is also starting to receive some water. It is not clear if this increased flow is merely water from the 85mm of rain received in the area late in April or if this is indeed the start of the flood. Typically the floodwaters would only arrive in the Khwai area around July or even as late as August. As for the broader picture, the annual flood is once again proving to be unpredictable. Water levels in the panhandle of the delta seem to be dropping sharply and all indications are that the 2002 Annual flood will be nothing more than average. As for the anticipated direction the main body of water will travel, who can say. Last year the western side of the delta received a major portion of the water. Current reports indicate this not to be the case in these initial stages of the flood. During the month fires once again plagued Eagle Island Camp. This may seem almost unbelievable considering that the entire area had 'so to say' already been burnt. Never the less on the 10th and 18th of the month Xaxaba's bravest were called to fire fighting duty. No damage to the camp occurred. Smoke from the fires throughout the region have made for some fantastic sunsets and although no actual burning has occurred in the Savute and Khwai areas, guests have also enjoyed the orange hues as the sun goes down. The vegetation is starting to feel the affects of the change in season with many species starting to drop their leaves. Some however, like the huge Jackal berries around Eagle Island camp, are now coming into fruit, something very typical for this time of the year. Naturally the abundance of the large berry fruits drives the baboons and monkeys wild. The other advantage of course is that it keeps these menacing creatures occupied and hence, out of the camp staffs hair. Also at Eagle Island, the Real Fan Palm fruits are showing signs of ripening and the baboons are targeting these two. We anticipate this not to be the case for very long as very soon I am sure the elephants will move in and start there annual onslaught on the palms both in and out of camp. Khwai River Lodge is the place to be with one spectacular wildlife sighting after the other. The variety of sightings has been amazing and has included cheetah (mother & cub), zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, honey badger, civet, genet and bat eared fox. Harold reports how on two occasions the resident lion pride has disrupted dinner, for the guests that is, whilst they hunt the red lechwe in front of the swimming pool. Reports also indicate that all is not well within the lion prides. The resident pride males also known as "Bafana Bafana" (The Boys) after the South African National soccer team, seem to be under increasing pressure by a new force on the outskirts of their territory. This is not uncommon amongst lion and may ultimately see "Bafana Bafana" become "Banana Banana" if they are ousted by the new males. At Savute large numbers of animals are congregating around the pumped water points. These are predominantly bull elephant as all the breeding herds tend to move to the more permanent water sources in the Chobe and Moremi. The number of elephant around the pumped pools will continue to grow as Savute moves into the dry winter months and at times may exceed 100 animals. Some great bird sightings have been recorded throughout the camps. At Eagle Island Camp an incredible one off sighting of 52 Wattled cranes was recorded near the camp. Sadly the flock has not been seen again and this can most likely be attributed to the influx of the flood. Other unusual sightings have included crows! At Khwai guests coming off their evening drives are often being welcomed by an array of owls. At least four different species have been sighted and range from the biggest (Giant Eagle owl) to the smallest (Pearl spotted owl). With the flood streaming in at Eagle Island and the water level at Khwai rising, the snakes have decided to head for higher ground. At both camps snake activity has been quite amazing despite the cooler weather. Sightings have included cobra, mamba, puff adder and green water snake. Crocodiles also seem to be enjoying the influx of fresh water and are seen regularly at both camps. Khwai River lodge it seems has taken the brunt of most of the problems this month. Harold's encounters with the restless neighbors range from squirrels, to baboons, to hippo. It seems however that it is the elephants that are really getting Harold excited, he says "Suddenly our property is the main highway for anything that remotely looks like an elephant." The elephants have enjoyed trashing the potted plants, sometimes seemingly just to spite Harold. On occasion when he tries to chase the huge grey beasts out of the camp they simply walk up to a pot and kick it over. Mothupi, one of Gametracker's most seasoned guides at Khwai River Lodge, recently experienced a sighting that not even he, after 30 odd years in the industry, could believe. Whilst out on a drive he very unexpectedly came across two of the most aggressive and lethal snakes in the African bush mating. The two 7 foot plus black mamba's were just as surprised by the unexpected interruption of the game drive vehicle and performed some sort of a dance, lifting two thirds of their bodies off the ground. Anxious to retreat to a safer distance Mothupi started to back up. No sooner had the vehicle started to roll backwards, did an already nervous guest yell stop. Mothupi in disbelief turned to see what the problem was; only two witness a leopard stealthily moving out from behind the vehicle. The leopard was also apparently very intrigued by the amorous antics of the snakes, uncertain of the safety aspect though the spotted feline seemingly used the car as a shield. After a few minutes of absolute silence, calm was restored as both mammal and reptile went their separate ways. All reports indicate that the first cycle of tsetse spraying in the southern section of the Delta has been very successful. We are at this very moment into the second cycle of spraying. This is timed so that the next hatch of tsetse fly pupae is destroyed. To date their have been no reports from Eagle Island Camp of any detrimental effects on other animals or insects. Giraffe Kills American in Kenya, June 30 2002 It is suspected that a giraffe killed an American tourist last Sunday at Kenya's Aberdare Country Club. The suspect giraffe died on Wednesday after resisting an attempt to examine its hooves for bloodstains. Kenyan police believe the giraffe could have killed James Gregory as he walked in the club's game sanctuary. The dead man might have approached too close to an animal, forgetting that it was wild, according to the country club manager. Mr. Gregory died from wounds to his forehead and behind one ear according to Senior Assistant Police Commissioner Peter Kimanthi. Police are treating the death as suspicious but do not think a human being is responsible as Mr. Gregory had not been robbed. His pockets contained both Kenyan and US currency. The Kenya Wildlife Service was called in to track down the giraffe and its rangers tranquilized the animal. But before they could examine its hooves to see if it had kicked the tourist, it got up, staggered off and fell over a cliff. The hooves of the dead giraffe have since been examined for any evidence of the attack on Mr. Gregory, but the results are not yet known, according to James Drysdale, duty manager of the country club. Lions and buffalos were not suspected as they do not live in the sanctuary. Although rare, it is not unheard of for giraffes to attack humans, says Mr. Drysdale. He added that a Kenya Wildlife Service ranger had been killed by a giraffe a few years ago. Ndutu Safari Lodge June Update, June 30 2002 Ndutu Safari Lodge is located on the border of Tanzania's famous Serengeti National Park. Please find the lodge's June 2002 update below: W were all pleasantly surprised to find so many wildebeest still on the triangle this month. The plains had a green tinge after the late rains in May. The wildebeest had started to rut, which only made the spectacle even more memorable. The males ran to and throw, challenging rivals while constantly calling and trying to herd groups of females together. The males would confront each other, clash horns with a surprising amount of force and promptly return to their little group of females, if they had not already moved off onto another males territory. To the outsider it looks like total chaos but to wildebeest it must make some sort sense. Nevertheless it really is a truly great event in the Serengeti migration and one we don't generally see at Ndutu as the herds have usually moved off before the rut starts. But thanks to late rains we've been treated to yet another of Serengeti's natural wonders. It proves yet again that every year, every month and every day is different and nothing can be taken for granted, only the knowledge that in this truly great wilderness, something is always going to be special. The main groups of wildebeest are moving fast towards the Seronera area although some wildebeest are still entering the Marsh for water. The young calves have now turned grey and have grown considerably over the past two months in preparation for the trek ahead in the search for water and fresh pasture. The resident lions are fat and well. They kindly paid us a visit the other evening, coming so close we had to abandon our drinks by the campfire. As they investigated the chairs in which we sat, I thought they might have taken the odd gin and tonic or beer before they went. But alas they just sat there for 20 minutes preventing us from reclaiming them, even though some of the guests looked as though they needed a gin! The Karatu Secondary School left this morning after another Ndutu visit. We invite the school to stay for two nights every year and they have been coming to Ndutu for well over ten years now. The school is about three and a half hours drive from the lodge in the small town of Karatu. It was the first time many of the children had seen wild animals which is sad when they live so close to one of the greatest wildlife parks in the world (Ngorongoro). We're pleased to be able to help the school and hope the arrangement will continue for many more years to come. The elephant known as DT, has been very much in evidence this month. For some reason he's taken to hanging around the lodge, which is great for the guests and wonderful to see, but there's a problem with his eating habits. We like having trees for aesthetic reasons and also for shade however he likes to eat them, so a conflict of interests has arisen. The time of clapping one's hands or banging saucepans is long over, as he's become accustomed to the noise. Even my guitar playing fails to persuade him to leave. Quite a bit of the surrounding foliage is now supported by bits of string. I haven't seen DT for over a week, so we're hoping it's just a passing phase and hopefully he'll do what elephants do best in the bush and not between the guest rooms. Some other interesting sightings this past week have been a pair of striped hyenas seen several times at Lake Masek. Caracals are still being seen regularly and of special note has been plum colored starlings and violet tipped courser which were seen at the lodge. On Friday the 7th of June, the funeral of Baron Hugo Van Lawick, took place in his old campsite at Ndutu. Hugo Van Lawick was a filmmaker and photographer, who lived at Ndutu for over twenty five years, first at the lodge and then in his camp a few kilometers away. Hugo was one of the first filmmakers to work in Serengeti/Ngorongoro and through his films the world was introduced to the delights of these wonderful places. Hugo trained many of the young filmmakers of today and was an inspiration to many more and his presence will live on in wildlife films for many more years to come. His last film 'The Serengeti Symphony' which was filmed in 35mm for the big screen is possibly the finest wildlife film ever made in the Serengeti and sets the standard for today's filmmakers. Hugo did so much to promote Serengeti/Ngorongoro and Tanzania that he was given a state funeral and the honor of being laid to rest in the place he had loved and lived in for much of his life. Government ministers, the Dutch ambassador, officials for Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority, National Parks and friends from around the world came to pay their last respects. The name Hugo Van Lawick has become synonymous with Ndutu. Hugo was a great storyteller and raconteur, it was a great pleasure to have met him and he will be sadly missed. Few can have achieved as much in life or be remembered so fondly as Hugo Van Lawick. Return to Weekly Update Archive |
