African travel and wildlife news for May 2003

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Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive

May 2003

Uganda Grows as Tourist Destination, May 4 2003

The number of travelers to Uganda, although amazingly small, is growing.

According to the Public Relations Officer of the Uganda Wildlife Authority, (UWA) Barbara Musoke, the UWA receives "an average of 300 to 450 tourists per month, a huge increase from the 100 to 300 that used to visit UWA in 1999". Ms Musoke said that "the UWA received 5,075 tourists in year 2002 and in the last four months more than 3,000 tourists have been to Uganda.

In comparison South Africa recorded over 6 million tourists in 2002.

Air Tanzania to Link Operations With South African Airways, May 4 2003

Operations of the newly re-launched Air Tanzania Company (ATC) Ltd will soon be synchronized with those of South African Airways (SAA). This means ATC flights from Dar es Salaam to Nairobi and Entebbe will in future be networked with SAA flights into the two cities, SAA manager for Middle East, West and East Africa, Aaron Munetsi said.

Dar es Salaam will be developed as the East African hub of SAA as part of its three-hub strategy; South Africa (Johannesburg), West Africa, and East Africa (Dar es Salaam).

Late last year, SAA acquired a 49% share in ATC at a cost of $20 million, while the Tanzanian government retained 51%. SAA is the biggest air carrier in Africa.

Getting Intimate with the Okavango, May 4 2003

Richard Field recently visited Botswana's famed Okavango Delta and wrote the following:

Intimacy - It is what most people search for in life, but few people find. I have lived and worked in and around the Okavango Delta in Botswana for over 5 years, but it was only just the other day, that we finally became intimate. How? I went on a three-day mokoro trail in the heart of the Okavango………

It is 2pm on an April afternoon and I'm sitting in a mokoro in Botswana's Okavango Delta. The sun is hitting us directly, as well as reflecting off the water. It is hot. Ahead of us, we can see hundred's of pelican's and Marabou storks lined up on a sandbank at the end of Xigera Lagoon. There are also red lechwe grazing peacefully on the bank to our north. Aside from the heat, it is a very peaceful scene. The serenity is accentuated by the fact that we are moving silently. With a BaYei paddler in the back of the mokoro, there is almost no sound as we move through the open water.

As we move closer to the pelicans, we understand why they are here in such numbers on today of all days. The annual flood of the Okavango Delta has just hit Xigera Lagoon, where we are camping for the next couple of days. Perfect timing. Xigera Lagoon is a huge expanse of fairly shallow water, and before the new floodwaters arrived, there were numerous sandbanks that had emerged. As these sandbanks had been covered with shallow water, the pelicans and marabou storks were lined up along them and were picking off fish as they arrived with the water. They were essentially making their own fish trap. When we continue our approach, the pelicans begin to take off. There must have been over 400 White and Pink-Backed Pelicans that took to the air. Added to this were several hundred Marabou Storks that had come to feast on the incoming fish, and hundreds of African Skimmers that were flying in long circles above our heads. The skimmers had been nesting on the exposed sandbanks until the water arrived, but were now also making the most of the glut of food. Also in smaller numbers were Yellow-billed Storks, Saddle-billed Storks, Wattled Cranes, Fish Eagles, Greenshanks, Grey Herons, Goliath Herons, Squacco Herons, Rufous-bellied Herons, Slaty Egrets, Little Egrets, Malachite Kingfishers, Pied Kingfishers, Long-toed Plovers and a host more. It was an absolute festival of birds topped off by a sighting of a pair of Caspian Terns. We knew that this was a special sight when our BaYei guides, Ishmael and William, who had been born and raised in the area, admitted that they had never seen them before. Yet their shear size rendered them unmistakable.

As we checked our bird books to confirm the sighting of the Caspian Terns, we nearly fell out of our mekoro (the plural of mokoro) by a noise that sounded like a huge clap of thunder moving across water. We looked back to see the herd of red lechwe, that had previously been grazing peacefully, charging across the open expanse of water. Clearly unimpressed with us, but in doubt as to whether to carry on crossing the lagoon, the lechwe stopped midway. They seemed to be evaluating the relative risks. Us behind them or the unknown in front of them. They decided to take a chance on the latter and carried on their explosive mission across the lagoon.

With the spectacle of the birds and the lechwe behind us, my traveling companion (an American travel writer named Jeff) and I were keen to try some fishing. Ishmael found us a quiet spot on the main channel of the Boro River and proved that he had chosen the spot well by pulling in a huge tiger fish with his first cast. However, the next half-hour was spent casting unsuccessfully and the decision was made - collectively - to move to a new spot.

The new spot was perfect in every way - except for the fishing. But that didn't actually matter. We sat with fishing rod in one hand, cold beer in the other, casting into the rushing water. As we fished we watched another herd of lechwe grazing on a flood plain in front of us. A couple of bull elephants sauntered past us. All the while the sun was starting to sink slowly and the light was changing to a color that fairly closely matched our beers.

I was getting intimate.

Jeff however was itching to move. He was in the process of telling Ishmael as much when his fishing line took off. He had latched himself a tiger. It took him a full ten minutes to bring it in, and whilst we didn't have a scale with us, it must have weighed in at about 4 kilograms. We decided to fish on. A couple of bream later and a fairly quiet fishing afternoon had turned into fresh fish for dinner.

We returned to our mekoro and headed for our fly camp. The sun had just set and a full moon was rising in front of us. The only distraction was a 747 that was still catching the sun that had so recently left us. It was flying so high that we couldn't even hear it. I wondered if they knew that at that moment they were flying over one of the most pristine areas left in Africa. I wondered where they were going but didn't worry about it for long. Wherever they were going I knew where I would rather be.

This mokoro trail was something of a renaissance. Twenty years ago, a few days camping in the heart of the Okavango, and traveling purely by mokoro was standard fare for most tourists who weren't into hunting safaris. Many of Botswana's top professional guides cut their teeth doing these sorts of trips.

Hennie and Angie Rawlinson are the owners of Xigera camp. Located on the southwestern edge of Moremi Game Reserve, and right in the heart of the permanent water of the Okavango, it is perfectly situated for an amazing water experience in the Delta. Hennie was one of the Okavango's top guides in the early '80's, and was best known for his camping trips in the Delta. When he and Angie won the lease for the Xigera concession in the late 90's, they soon decided that aside from a beautiful, up-market camp, they were going to run mokoro trails as well. Hennie and Angie met at Xigera, and having spent much time being intimate in the Delta, they now wish to revive intimacy with the Delta for their guests

Ishmael Setlabosha is one of the more amazing people that resides in the Delta. He was born and raised on an island just north of Xigera lagoon and an incredible knowledge of the Okavango and its many inhabitants - both plant and animal - is now thoroughly ingrained. His knowledge is not from textbooks but from life. It is an intimate knowledge and those who have walked with him on the islands of the Okavango will not soon forget the experience.

I was fortunate enough to have this experience the next morning. We had a short mokoro ride to a large island where we began our walk. We set in behind Ishmael who was armed only with a rather fearsome looking, home-made spear, a pencil flare and a lifetime's experience in the Okavango.

He missed nothing. Any tracks and signs were analyzed and a new route was taken accordingly. For example, Ishmael found fresh tracks of an old bull buffalo heading into a dense thicket. Whilst we were relieved when Ishmael started walking in the opposite direction, such was our trust in him that we would have been right there with him had he headed straight in after the tracks. We were able to stalk to within 20 meters of a herd of grazing impala, and tracked and found a small herd of kudu browsing on the edge of the island. He chatted willingly about many of the plants that we walked past. He gave us an indication of the full medical cabinet that exists in the bush, as well plants that poisoned fish, plants that you could eat, and plants whose roots would leave your baby smelling fresher than Johnson and Johnson baby powder. We had walked for three hours, but hadn't raised a sweat. It was a botanical experience, an anthropological experience, and a cultural experience, but most of all it was an intimate experience.

On the way home, Ishmael spotted a female sitatunga - a rare and highly aquatic antelope, and one of the most prized sightings of the Okavango Delta. Once again, through the skill of Ishmael and William we were able to get close to the "tunga" before it leapt away into a thicket of papyrus.

We returned to camp around midday, had a substantial brunch and snoozed until early afternoon. We had planned an afternoon of swimming and fishing.

Swimming is the ultimate way to get intimate with the Okavango. Clearly safety is an issue, and swimming at random is not recommended as large crocodiles and hippos abound. Ishmael however, took us to his swimming pool. It was a tiny channel between two small islands of sand that would soon be entirely covered by water. The new floodwater was charging through this little channel and staying in the one spot was difficult but not impossible. The water was deep enough for us to dive without danger, but shallow enough on its extremities, for us not to have to worry about the presence of unwanted reptilian visitors. Even at the deepest point of this small channel the water was clear enough for me to count all the hairs on my big toes. Yep, all three were still in place! The temperature was wonderful. It was cool enough for us to feel immediately refreshed, yet warm enough for us to rather stay in then get out. At one stage I saw a tiny White Fronted Plover about twenty meters down stream from me. Using the fast current I drifted towards it with only my nose and eyes out of the water. I was able to float to within a meter it finally flew off. The whole experience was absolutely unbelievable. Whilst sitting in the water with it rushing over my back and shoulders I knew that I was no longer just a visitor. At that time and in that place, I was a part of the Okavango. There was genuine intimacy.

It was with reluctance that we left our swimming pool and carried on our way. We were in the mokoro's for a while, but I couldn't say how long exactly. The rest of the world may have been in turmoil, but I was in a state of total peace. I had a few interesting things happen to me on that afternoon mokoro ride.

Firstly, as we brushed a reed, a tiny green frog jumped onto my lap. He was a Long Reed Frog. A very inappropriate name as he is only about 13mm long. He stayed in my lap until much later when I relocated him onto a water lily pad.

Secondly I saw a pair of bright orange dragonflies mating. Nothing unusual about that except that they were flying in the same direction as I was, they were moving at roughly the same pace, and were about a meter from my head. They spent so long traveling right next to me, that I was able to pull out my field guide and identify them - Urothemis assignata. Despite their long and complicated name I was touched by their intimacy and I could not think of any other mode of transport that would let me spend so long with a pair of amorous insects.

Before sunset we stopped so that Jeff could fish again. There is definitely a certain Zen that you get when fishing. However I didn't need to fish - I was there already. I instead stayed seated in my mokoro and watched as a Western-Banded Snake Eagle flew overhead and perched in a nearby tree. If I hadn't been in such a state of "Okavango Zen" I probably would have fallen out of my mokoro at this wonderfully rare sight. I listened to fish eagles and swamp boubous calling. On a neighboring island a troop of vervet monkeys started chattering. From the same place came the alarm calls of a red billed francolin. I wondered what predator they saw, but marveled at the fact that the feeling that I was still part of the Delta had not left.

That night during dinner we had a large male hippo come and join us on the small island on which we were camping. We saw him coming from a long way off as the moon shone brightly off his wet back. He wandered to within 20 yards of our small camp, before sensing that something was not quite right and moving back into the shallow water. He stayed close by for most of the night, and his slow footsteps and constantly munching jaws, were strangely comforting. The only other animal that disturbed my sleep that night, was a Pel's Fishing Owl, which issued its haunting call from somewhere close by on the island. We would look for him tomorrow.

Any sighting of a Pel's Fishing Owl is special. They are unbelievably attractive birds, not common anywhere, and are highly secretive - particularly in daylight hours when they spend most of the day hiding from the unwanted attentions of their main competitor, the African Fish Eagle. Xigera however, is one of the best places to find the "Pel's". The habitat is perfect, with many good hunting sites, and many safe places to roost and nest. Consequently, it should have been no surprise that we had three separate sightings of Pel's the next morning. We had to work for the first two - mokoroing to small islands, hopping out and closely inspecting the dense woodland. The tough task was made easier by the skill of Ishmael and William, who had an amazing sense for which islands and which trees to look in. We managed to accidentally flush the final Pel's whilst in our mokoro. As he burst out from within a Mangosteen tree, he was harried and harassed by a flock of grey louries. We were as sorry to have disturbed him as we were happy to see him.

Our safari finished later that morning when a boat from Xigera Camp came to pick us up. As the boat approached it struck me that for the last two nights and three days we had been without any artificial noise. There had been no engines. No boats, no vehicles, no generators, and best of all no radios blurting out depressing reports of wars in far off places. Whilst I was not happy that I had to return to the "real" world that afternoon, I felt a strong sense of relief that with the rebirth of the mokoro trail, should I ever feel the need, I would once again be able to get intimate with the Okavango.

Star of Africa Update, May 4 2003

Star of Africa operates a small number of top end luxury safari lodges and camps in Zambia. Here is their latest update:

Greetings from a sunny Victoria Falls and Sussi and Chuma Lodge! There has been a lot of rainfall this season and the grass has now become knee high. This has caused the new 'butterfly haven" that now exists on our property. Besides the copious butterflies that are around, the game is now starting to appear, as the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is now fully fenced and the previous game enclosures removed, making the 36 km2 national park, 15km2 larger than before. Recent sightings of elephant, buffalo, zebra and giraffe have been reported.

Under the guidance of Andrew, our operations manager, Sussi and Chuma has implemented a new menu. This exciting new menu blends together traditional African flavors of Zambia with a variety of international dishes.

At Lechwe Plains in the Lochinvar National Park there has been very little rain to date. This has resulted in the very shallow Chunga Lagoon receding 400 meters from the camp. On the travelers behalf, this is a positive thing as this has left a rich deposit of soil which has transformed into a lush green grassy plain right on the camps doorstep, this encouraging an array of animals to come and graze there. On a recent visit, 200 zebra and 2,000 lechwe were contently grazing on the plain in front of the lodge.

One can never describe the sheer numbers and varieties of birds. At dawn, one is awakened by an incredible crescendo of woodland birds, and francolin whilst, the fish eagles, crowned cranes, and herons add to the performance. On exiting your " pavilion tent" the sky is filled with open billed, yellow billed and marabou storks, often mixed with white backed and lappet faced vultures. This is a definite stop over for the avid bird watchers with over 428 species of bird found there. "

Our team is busy getting Kulefu Tented Camp ready for opening. We are delighted to advise you that we have a new couple joining our team as the Managers at Kulefu - Mark and Robin Roberts. Mark, who was formerly based at Mfuwe Lodge in South Luangwa is an exceptionally accomplished guide and his wife, Robin, will be a superb hostess.

Mark from Chichele in South Luangwa reports "Game viewing this green season has been exceptional. Sightings of the endangered wild dog are regular and the Chichele lion pride has come so close into camp that they have taken to sunbathing on our old tennis court!"

Also in South Luangwa Star of Africa have just started construction on their Puku Ridge Tented Camp - A real wilderness experience under canvas with attention to luxury and comfort and emphasis on exciting wildlife opportunities. This superb property is located on a ridge overlooking spectacular game rich floodplains." Puku Ridge Tented Camp will open on July 1, 2003.

Double Luggage Allowed on Safari, May 11 2003

Ultimate Africa clients booking for 2004 will be allowed to bring 25kgs (55 pounds) of luggage (or photo gear) per person on many safaris in southern Africa (most companies allow a maximum12 kg's or 26 pounds). This new weight limit applies to bookings made after April 30, 2003.

Delta SkyMiles Offer, May 11 2003

Ultimate Africa client's can now earn up to 10,000 Delta SkyMiles! Ultimate Africa client's who purchase a "platinum" level safari including Delta / South African Airways air tickets by June 15, 2003 will earn 10,000 Delta SkyMiles per person! Clients who book a "premier" level safari will receive 5,000 Delta SkyMiles per person. "Voyager" level clients will receive 2,500 miles per person. This offer cannot be combined with other discounts. There is a minimum trip length of 7 nights.

New Photos Safaris for Serious Photographers, May 11 2003

Ultimate Africa has introduced a new line of safaris designed for serious photographers. Imagine Africa's vast plains teeming with wildlife. You are in an open 4x4 LandRover...there is no rush as you wait for the right light...the action. This is an Ultimate Africa ProPhoto Safari. In the company of an expert photo guide, join a set group departure or plan your own private photo safari. Ultimate Africa's 55 pound luggage limit (on most southern African safaris) will allow you to bring all the gear you desire (most safaris limit you to 26 lbs. of luggage). Guests are limited to 3 to 4 per vehicle (many photo safaris have 6 or more people in one vehicle which is absolutely unacceptable if you are serious about photography). We are able to answer all of your photography questions as we are serious photographers ourselves (I shoot with a Canon D60 and numerous lenses including the Canon 100-400L IS, Sigma 17-35 and Canon 28-105 IS).

For 2004 we are offering two set ProPhoto group departures - one in March with professional photographer Ron Lucas and one in October with professional photographer Michael Poliza - Many photographers have noted that they learned more during a few days with Michael than they learned during 10 years in the field! We are also able to tailor-make itineraries for individuals, couples, or small groups (preferably no more than 8 with one professional photographer). To learn more about our ProPhoto Safaris click here.

New "Healing Matters" Safari, May 11 2003

For many physicians a trip to Africa is a dream...for many Africans adequate medical care is also a dream. At the request of local African villagers we have created our "Healing Matters - Physicians on Safari". This program allows physicians (and dentists, optometrists, and other medical professionals) to visit Africa, learn traditional healing methods, treat local villagers and view Africa's incredible wildlife. If you are a physician you may wish to join our March 21-29, 2004 scheduled departure to Botswana. This 9 day trip for up to 8 doctors (or 4 doctors and their spouses) will incorporate the Victoria Falls at the River Club, the Okavango Delta at Duba Plains, and Moremi at Mombo Camp! Traveling by light aircraft you will view the world's largest waterfall, partake in day and nighttime wildlife viewing drives and professionally guided walks in Botswana's Okavango Delta and Moremi, and spend two days treating local bushman in their communities while learning their traditional healing methods. This trip can also depart on request and the time of year, accommodations, activities, and total number of days can be altered to suit your needs. As an example we can arrange for a group of dentists to visit local clinics in Namibia...or optometrists to visit local clinics in Zambia. For further details click here.

Chikwenya Camp Monthly Report, May 11 2003

Chikwenya Camp is located on the border of Zimbabwe's Mana Pools National Park. Here is the camp's April report:

There has been no rain at all this month and already the temperatures have started dropping. The acacia albidas are preparing for the winter - all are in full leaf and in various stages of flowering. Some of the albidas in Mana are even in fruit already, very early in the season. The rest of the bush is still quite green, with only the beginnings of drying off of some of the smaller seasonal plants. The various seasonal pans are still holding water and harboring small populations of water life - the most noticeable of which being a flock of Garganeys - a rare migrant waterfowl! Other noticeable birds for the month are purple-banded sunbird, Pel's fishing owl, osprey, arrow-marked babblers feeding a striped cuckoo chick they had reared and a Gabar goshawk in a remarkable aerial dive to catch a speedy chameleon.

We found tracks of a lioness with a cub, through the camp, which confirmed last month's suspicions that Elolaka had had young. However, from the 22nd to the 25th we found her mating with one of the males. Judging from the size of the tracks of the cub we would estimate that it was around two months old, so probably too early for Elolaka to be ovulating again if it was still around. We can only assume that the cub must have been killed. While she was being courted at the far end of the concession, the young lioness was being courted by the older male, right in front of camp - a couple of nights where sleep was frequently punctuated by the growling, scuffling and roaring of the amorous couple. So maybe in five or six month's time we will have two lots of youngsters entertaining the guests and staff of Chikwenya.

'Chikwenya', the grand dame of Chikwenya's elephants, passed by the camp a couple of days ago with her herd. This seldom-seen matriarch has one tusk - the left one, and what a tusk - straight as an arrow and reaching the ground. Another female in her herd also has only one tusk, the right one and about half the length. One other female in the herd has no tusks at all - not unusual in this part of the world. We followed the herd for about an hour on foot, being very careful not to be seen or smelt. They contemplated the river for about half an hour, then, stimulated by a teenager who could not resist the cool Zambezi water any longer, all climbed in and swam across to a sandbar. They then crossed a couple of small channels to Chikwenya Island, where they normally spend a lot of time. The tusk-less female was even more hesitant, but not far behind, with her small calf and another sub-adult female. They kept the calf tightly sandwiched between them and for good reason. We watched a large crocodile move rapidly in, the herd oblivious to its presence. The crocodile had its face swatted a couple of times by the continuous flicking of the elephants tails and at one point had its snout up on the rump of one elephant. When the group started climbing into shallower water the crocodile backed off.

A couple of extracts from our visitor's book :

"Lion, leopards, cobras, genets, & much, much more! Caring staff & delicious food ~ heavenly. Many thanks to everyone." Hugh and Wendy - USA.

"Outstanding weekend - thanks to the wonderful management and staff. We'll be back!" Lawry and Carol - Harare.

"Sitting here enjoying a most stunning view while being thoroughly looked after! I have been on a number of safaris & can honestly say that the past few days here at Chikwenya rate the highest!" Jason - USA.

That's all for April

Ongava Tented Camp Monthly Report, May 11 2003

Ongava Tented Camp is located on the boundary of Namibia's famed Etosha National Park. Here is the camp's April update:

This has been a very strange month for Namibia. We have already experienced all four seasons during the last month. The beginning of the month there was some rain that lasted for about 5 days. The temperature is getting cooler at night. The last few days it dropped to 13 Celsius although at midday it was well into the 30s Celsius.

During the last couple of weeks there have been few ele sigthings due to the rain. We expect the eles to be back shortly though.

Lion sightings have been really good. It looks like the lions at Ongava are busy forming a pride of 10 lions. There is Stompie and her three baby's of about 4 months old then there is a collared female and her three big cubs of about 1 year old and also the Two Blond Brothers as we call them. In the western part of the reserve there are the three brothers without any manes. During the beginning of the month they killed an oryx and 5 spotted hyena's tied to take the kill. Luckily there were two game drive vehicles on the spot who witnessed the whole incident. What a sighting! Another very interesting sighting was watching three black backed jackals killing a springbok inside the park.

The white rhino sightings at Ongava are a highlight with 98% of guests seeing them. On the morning drives We also had a few black rhino sightings in Etosha and in the reserve.

The night drives have been good with lots of interesting sightings - a few pearl spotted owls and then smaller animals like the bushbaby's and African wild cats and some small spotted genets.

Foreigners Flock to South Africa, May 11 2003

South Africa has emerged as the world's fastest-growing tourism destination, with 6.4 million tourists visiting last year. This is an increase of 11.1% from the previous year, according to the South African Ministry of Environmental Affairs and Tourism. Over the same period rival destination Australia saw a .3% drop in arrivals.

Figures for the first two months of this year are up 8% from 2002, with overseas arrivals up 17%, according to the ministry. Tourism to South Africa is expected to grow by an average of 5,2% a year between 2002 and 2012.

Kenya Reports 25% Growth in Tourism, May 11 2003

Tourists to Kenya have risen by a record 25% in the last four months.The Kenya Tourism Board attributed this to aggressive marketing as well as renewed interest in Kenya because of the peaceful political transition after recent elections.

January arrivals were 50,416 compared to 40,551 in the same period last year, a 24.3% increase.February had 57,232 arrivals compared to 42,807 in 2002, a 33.7%increase while in March, an increase of 21.8% occurred after 50,742 arrivals were recorded compared to 41,668 in 2002.In April, 38,642 arrivals were recorded compared to 29,626 in the same period last year, which translates to 30.4% increase.

The total number of tourists recorded in the last four months stands at 197,032 compared to 154,652 in the same period last year.

An elated KTB chief executive, Ms Betty Buyu, described the performance as "healthy" considering the world events, including the Iraqi war which adversely affected the travel industry. "We are optimistic that more tourists will continue visiting Kenya in the coming months now that the Iraqi war is over. These positive results have reinforced the fact that Kenya is on the path of regaining its position as the preferred tourist destination in Africa," she said.

British Government Stops Flights to Kenya, May 18 2003

All UK flights to and from Kenya have been suspended by the British government amid fears of an "imminent" threat of terror attacks on British planes.

British Airways has cancelled its daily departures to Kenya and has made arrangements to transfer hundreds of passengers into Tanzania to fly them back to the UK.

The action follows warnings from the US about possible terrorist attacks throughout East Africa and south-east Asia, following the recent suicide bombings in Saudi Arabia which killed 34 people.

But Kenya has criticized the flight ban as an "extreme" action that played into the hands of any would-be attackers.

The Foreign Office has advised against non-essential travel to Kenya, and advised Britons there to keep a low profile and maintain a high level of vigilance in public places.

About 100,000 Britons holiday each year in Kenya, where in November there was a failed attempt to shoot down a plane carrying Israeli tourists from a holiday resort near Mombasa.

The BBC's Daniel Sandford said flights were being suspended, according to Whitehall sources, over concerns about "personnel and weaponry" being in place, although it may not necessarily be an attempt to shoot down a passenger aircraft.

The Department of Transport ordered UK airlines to suspend flights to and from Kenya saying "the threat level to UK civil aviation interests in Kenya has increased to imminent."

Peter Kirk, the assistant director of aviation, said: "Developments in Kenya and other recent events demonstrate the continuing terrorist threat to UK civil aviation generally.

"High levels of vigilance and security awareness are therefore essential. What we do know is that there is some information and it is a growth really of information which enables us to say we are now extremely worried that something might happen. We had to give this warning.

Matthew Kabetu, head of Kenya's anti-terrorism unit, noted that an al-Qaeda suspect may have returned to the country. Fazul Abdullah Mohammed is wanted in connection with the US embassy bombing in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam and the attacks in Mombasa in November last year. The Kenyan Government has issued his photograph saying he may have slipped back into Kenya or may be in Somalia. He is believed to be the chief architect of November's bombing of the hotel.

The United States urged its citizens to postpone non-essential trips to Kenya, due to fears of possible terror attacks by groups linked to al-Qaeda.

The State Department fears an attack could be timed to coincide with Thursday's celebration of the Prophet Muhammad's birthday, "Maulid".

Kenya Airways is still flying between the UK and Kenya, but other Western airlines are said to be considering their position.

Kenyan security minister Chris Murungaru criticized the British Government. "The action taken by the British Government was extreme and action like this may make it appear like terrorists are making a moral score, a moral victory," he said. He said Kenya was taking all necessary security precautions against terrorism.

But a BA spokesman said: "The safety and security of our customers is always our first priority and will never be compromised."

The Kenya Tourism Federation responded to British Airways with the following statement:

The Kenya Tourism Federation (KTF) wishes to reassure our tourist visitors that we have confidence that the new government in Kenya has fully recognized the increased global terrorist threat and we are aware that action has been taken to deal with it by our new National Security Minister, Chris Murungaru, who has taken steps to see that the necessary machinery has been put in place to combat terrorism. The Kenya government has confirmed that Kenya's security forces continue on high alert and that security agents have recently stepped up the level of vigilance country-wide with a greater security presence around vital installations, airports, tourist resorts, urban centers and foreign embassies.

We have been pleased to note the actions taken by the newly appointed Commissioner of Police, Edwin Nyaseda, in co-ordinating action to improve our level of security and we are aware that the recently established Anti-Terrorist Police Unit has been working closely with leading international security agencies to protect both tourist visitors and the Kenyan people from any possible act of terrorism.

Within our own industry, our members have all been asked to give increased attention to security issues and to give a high priority to implementing action to ensure the safety of our visitors. We would like to assure our visitors that they can expect to receive a friendly welcome from all Kenyans involved in our tourism industry and that Kenya continues to offer a first class holiday experience for overseas tourists.

Jake Grieves-Cook Chairman, Kenya Tourism Federation

US State Department Kenya Warning, May 18 2003

The Department recommends that Americans defer all non-essential travel to Kenya at this time. The U.S. Government has received indications of terrorist threats in the region aimed at American and western interests, including civil aviation. The government of Kenya might not be able to prevent such attacks. On November 28, 2002, there was a car bomb attack on a hotel near Mombasa, Kenya, in which 15 people were killed, and an unsuccessful attempt to shoot down an Israeli charter plane departing Mombasa on the same day. The threat to aircraft by terrorists using shoulder-fired missiles continues in Kenya, to include Nairobi. These incidents have highlighted the continuing threat posed by terrorism in East Africa and the capacity of terrorist groups to carry out attacks. Terrorist actions may include suicide operations, bombings, or kidnappings. U.S. citizens should be aware of the risk of indiscriminate attacks on civilian targets in public places including tourist sites, American commercial interests, and other sites where westerners are known to congregate. American citizens in Kenya should remain vigilant, particularly in public places frequented by foreigners such as hotels, shopping malls, restaurants, and cafes, and should also avoid demonstrations and large crowds. In particular, there is an increased threat against westerners in the capital, Nairobi.

Americans residing in and visiting Kenya are especially advised to reconsider non-essential travel to the coastal region.

Ultimate Africa Responds to Kenya Questions, May 18 2003

In January 2003 Ultimate Africa posted the following on our website. We have been criticized by many travelers for noting that we did not wish to handle their Kenya safari arrangements however recent events are evidence that we are not being irrational.

Many travelers have been told by their corporations to avoid travel to Africa. After the terrorist attacks in Kenya do you feel Africa is safe for travelers?

Since the mid 1990's we have advised travelers that we have serious safety concerns with regards to crime, corruption and personal safety in east Africa. After the US embassy bombings in Kenya and Tanzania we noted that east Africa would be a likely target for additional terror attacks. Recent events in Kenya have unfortunately showed our warnings to be accurate.

Many people are under the impression that Africa as a whole is unsafe and that the events in Kenya are evidence of this. This view is simply incorrect. Africa is enormous (you can fit four of the United States into the area of the African continent) and diverse (over 50 countries). On a positive note there are numerous safe destinations offering travelers incredible wildlife and wilderness areas. Botswana stands out as being democratic, politically and economically stable (Botswana is actually a safer investment destination than Australia!). Botswana is far safer than most of the world's destinations (the US State Department notes that "Civil unrest and disorder are rare" and that "Violent crime remains relatively infrequent in Botswana").

In 2002 anti government groups in Spain bombed several tourist areas along Spain's coast. Would you cancel a trip to Denmark due to these bombings? Of course not. Even though both countries are part of Europe most travelers understand that Denmark is a very different country, far away from Spain. In Africa it is no different. In fact the distance between Spain and Denmark is almost exactly the same as the distance between Kenya and Botswana!

Air Botswana Launches New Routes, May 18 2003

Air Botswana will be launching a new Maun - Windhoek flight starting on June 29, 2003! The two flights as week will complement the 3 services per week flown by Air Namibia.

Even more exciting is the announcement of Air Botswana's new flight Cape Town - Maun!!! The 2 hour and 35 minute flight will operate from Maun to Cape Town on Tuesdays and from Cape Town to Maun on Wednesday. There will also be a Friday afternoon flight to Cape Town returning to Maun on Saturday.

Discovery Channel Names Cape Town Beach as One of Best, May 18 2003

The Discovery Channel's online travel segment heaped praise and adulation on Cape Town's Clifton beach, which was the only African beach listed by Discovery as one of the World's Best Beaches.

Beautiful Cape Road to Open, May 18 2003

Cape Town's famous Chapman's Peak Drive, linking Hout Bay with Noordhoek and the southern most parts of the Cape Peninsula, will re-open in December 2003. The stretch of mountain road which clings to a cliff overlooking the ocean below is considered by many to be the most beautiful stretch of road in the world!

SAA Named Africa's Best, May 18 2003

South African Airways (SAA) has been named by the British airline benchmarking company, Skytrax, as the best airline in Africa for the third year running (Skytrax).

SAA president and CEO, Andre Viljoen, said four million passengers were surveyed by Skytrax in the largest survey of its kind in the world. "SAA was recognized for the range of services it provides to the travel industry and in turn to the traveling public. We feel proud and honored for the recognition," said Viljoen.

He said SAA had also won three other crucial awards of the Best African Airline, Best Domestic Airline and Best International Airline flying to South Africa. He said despite the stiff competition, SAA came top because of the exceptional services they provide.

Viljoen said SAA had now won the Travel Globe Awards of the prestigious Best Airline to Africa award for the 12th consecutive year, beating British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, and Kenya Airways.

Matusadona Water Wilderness Update, May 18 2003

Matusadona Water Wilderness is a floating safari camp on the shores of Lake Kariba, within Matusadona National Park, in Zimbabwe. Here is the camp's April update:

We are now in winter. The maximum temperature being 30 degrees and the minimum 23 degrees. The lake is rising and islands are starting to disappear.

Walking and tracking in Matusadona has been exciting. Within the immediate area around camp there are three rhinos - Shungu, Mvura and Boma. The two Mvura and Boma were released into the wild about three months ago. They are not very shy and guests can often get very close to them. Their middens are scattered all over the country side.

Over and above these three rhino guests this month have had five sightings of other wild black rhino - seeing a mother and her infant on two occasions and seeing the three bulls at different times. One day going out for a walk we a came across some fresh three toed beast tracks. It was about half an hour when we heard the black rhino munching away in the thick jesse bushes. We found a comfortable place down wind of the animal and just sat there for awhile observing the rhino and taking pictures of him. During that time we had a herd of kudu come in and on seeing us they gave us a wide berth, fortunately without any interruption from the rhino. Then young boisterous elephant bulls pulled in and after screaming and performing disappeared into the thicket noisily. Again, much to our advantage the rhino was unperturbed.

Elephants are around all the time, some with some brilliant looking tusks.

On two separate occasions now, whilst appreciating the break of the dawn, as the sun rose over the mountains, the early morning chirp of pied wagtails and squawking Egyptian geese has been drowned by the desperate snorts from the impala from across the bay. Anxiously looking through our binoculars from camp, searching at every patch of the grass and under every bush, we spotted lion stealthily stalking impala. With their heads all glaring on one direction it was easier to spot the well camouflaged predator. My thought is that this is the same lion that has joined the choruses that have become the night music almost in sync with the hyenas and leopard in the distance. Sitting at the mothership, steaming cup of coffee in hand, watching the sun rise on one side and then seeing the lioness making for her prey on the other has convinced me that there is no better way to start the day.

Guests have been enjoying views of mud bathing, swimming elephant bulls, not to mention the scattered herds of impala, and warthogs on bent knees from their floating cabins.

On the birding side all the migratory birds have moved away. Our resident fish eagles have been seen catching fish close to the mothership on many occasions.

Xigera Camp April Update, May 18 2003

Xigera Camp is located in Botswana's Okavango Delta. Here is the camp's April update:

As always, things are great out here in the bush. The bulk supply trucks have been and gone and we are all stocked up with fuel, gas etc for the next few months - our fitness levels also got a bit of a boost getting all the goods into camp.

Winter has closed in on us with it's chilly mornings, shorter days and it's Scorpio dominated night skies. The days however are still nice and warm with temperatures averaging around 31'C. The long awaited floods eventually reached us on the 15th of April. We had a marker up against the side of the entrance bridge, and the guests kept an enthusiastic eye on it to see the rising levels. The water level has been constant for the last 11 days now, and the water is rapidly becoming clearer.

We have had quite an array of guests in camp, mostly Swiss, German, French, Italian and American. A few South Africans and Mexicans. One Mexican gentleman in particular, (by the name of Carlos), will be remembered for some years to come. He made sure the guests learnt all the different ways in which to consume Tequila, and the morning after he was just as happy to prepare and share a few of his weird hangover concoctions.

Talking about activities, we've had really had a good month of sightings. Amongst the most memorable would definitely be our 3 cheetah sightings. The first was a female on an impala kill, which later got stolen by the lions. The same cheetah was found the next morning on another impala kill. This time she was lucky enough to eat her fill before she moved on. The third cheetah, a big male who just graced us with his presence for a day.

We have had lions on a dead hippo for a day, but they decided to move on when things got too smelly! Of course, the hyenas were just too happy to take over. These lions, and many others were also seen on numerous other occasions during the month. It has been a lion month of note.

Our leopard sightings have been just as good, and we are happy to say that we have found another relaxed male which have brought many of our guest's great viewing pleasure. A leopard was also spotted from a mekoro, which is amazing. Elephants have been plentiful, as per usual and we have also recorded quite a few buffalo sightings for the month.

All in all, guests have been very happy, due to a combination of good food, hospitality, good guides and great sightings. Feedback in our visitors book says it all. Georgina Sack from France: "Many thanks to the team. An unforgettable stay!"

Sandra Pierce, Toronto Canada: "A dream come true, we walk away with memories that will last a lifetime.

Sonia Berry,London,UK: "You all make this a wonderful experience, great for relaxation, an escape from the rest of the world. Fabulous!"

Natalie Fitz-Gerald from Santa Fe', came up with this one: X-celent I-nteresting G-reat E-ternal Memory R-epeatable A-mazing

It would be impossible to quote all the other good comments from satisfied guests. So we can say that it has been a great month, and that we are looking forward to the next.

Jao Camp Update, May 18 2003

Jao Camp is a platinum level property located in Botswana's Okavango Delta. Here is the camp's latest update:

A great month has passed us here at Jao with a lot of exciting experiences happening all around us everyday. We have been yet again witnessing the forever changing Delta and the highlight this month was the yearly floods arriving. A bit early this time but still a sight that makes anyone humble at the immense power and beauty of this ecosystem (with the temperature making it even more of a phenomenon). There was a minimum average of 19, and an average maximum of 34. With all of this water, still 6mm of rain fell throughout the month.

As I mentioned, the water came early and pushed strongly for just under two weeks, and now has slowed to a trickle. There may be more arriving in the future as we hear that the water coming in at the top of the Delta has increased in volume again.

On the food and beverage side there have been some very successful occasions. Many private dinners and the like have taken place. Also we have found a new location where we can have the most awesome bush dinners, while the floods are in. The venue is fantastic and the location I will keep a secret, so that you and others can experience the surprise when you come and visit us.

There has been some great night time drumming sessions happening here, where the guests and all of the staff join together and practice the African way of drumming. This normally turns into huge fits of laughter, as the guests take over to beat the rhythm.......the rest for you to see when you are here next.

As usual there have been a lot of folks that have taken full advantage of the option of sleeping in, having breakfast and champagne on their balconies and watching the world go by through papyrus and palm.

Frank was heading his team of guides for this month and we thank them for being able to show, share and educate so many folks that have come through our area. To be noted was the movement of game, such as the antelopes. They have moved from the Jao game drive area down to the south, away from the flood water. Like any other flood season there is a very high population of red lechwe on the Jao and Kwetsani flood plains.

Due to the high water levels, it is difficult to follow the lion movements however and we have had a fewer sightings this month. There are more elephants around the area, especially on the Jao Island. The birdlife has, as usual, been very good. There have been awesome sightings of up to 1,500 wattle cranes.

There have been two herds of buffaloes sighted regularly. One herd is about 1,000 and the other of about 300 buffalo. Also there have been many requests for boating and we are able to explore most of the area to the east. However the area to the west is at the present limited, due to the low level of the water there. This should change next month.

I am sure that the Delta will show us more of her magic in the following days and entertain all of the wonderful people that come and share our home with us.

Duba Plains Tented Camp Report, May 18 2003

Duba Plains Tented Camp is located in Botswana'a Okavango Delta and is noted as having the highest density of lion in Africa. Here is the camp's April update:

During April the minimum average temperature was 19°C and the maximum was 33°C. There was no rain. Instead we had wonderful blue skies welcoming us into the coming winter season. The floodwater arrived towards the end of March, but really pushed in over the last two weeks. We are now cut off from the Paradise area until about September. No worries though, as most of the resident animals from that area have shifted further south to the drier areas, over which we can traverse on our game drives. The most noticeable of these being the Skimmer Pride and the two new male lions. With the onset of winter, the long grass is dropping and the elephants are returning in large numbers. The buffalo calving has peaked over the last month, much to the delight of our well-fed and content lions. Seven zebra surprised us with a 24-hour visit before realizing the floodwaters were rising and it was time to head for higher ground. Other special sightings included serval, bat-eared foxes, aardwolf, a leopard and a couple of pythons.

The hyena clan continues to do exceptionally well, with seven pups currently at the den. All the pups are very relaxed in the presence of game drive vehicles and take great pleasure investigating the tires and anything else that may be worth chewing on. Luckily they lose this curiosity before they are big enough to cause any damage. The highlight of our hyaena viewing had to be watching them get the better of a three-year-old Skimmer male at a buffalo carcass. The bull buffalo was killed at night during the full moon and shared between three Skimmer males and fourteen members of the Tsaro pride. The scene was surprisingly peaceful until the hyenas arrived, managing to isolate one of the young male lions and then move in for the attack. About fifteen hyenas encircled the lion, all rushing in at once & biting him on his back. No serious damage was done, other than to the lion's ego as he slunk away with his tail between his legs. The noise created by the hyenas was incredible, happily recorded by guests on their video camcorders.

April must rank as one of the best lion viewing months Duba has experienced. Not in terms of the numbers seen, but rather in the awesome quality of the sightings witnessed. The lions were recorded on everyday of the month, averaging 16 lions per day and 73 different pride sightings during the month. In total 42 lions were located, with only the Old Vumbura pride (7) being absent. This is expected at this time of the year as the Old Vumbura pride relocates to the drier areas further north. The main reason for the incredible viewing was the regrouping of the Tsaro pride, bringing with them a two-month-old male cub. The last few months had seen the Tsaro pride disband into smaller subgroups, proving more elusive and not needing to prey on the buffalo herd to the same degree that they used to. Many successful kills were witnessed, including 24 buffalo, 1 lechwe, 1 baboon and 3 warthog. All were carried out by the Tsaro pride, bar the baboon, 1 warthog and perhaps 3 buffalo. All except one buffalo were daytime kills. The Tsaro pride tactics at this time of year are to stampede the herd and separate out any injured, sick or young animals. With the floodwater rising, the shallow channels offered perfect obstacles for the lions to take advantage of the calving buffalo herd. Unfortunately this resulted in many calves being caught, sometimes along with the females coming back to protect their young. One sighting saw the buffalo get the upper hand as a new born calf struggled to its feet for the first time, only to have two lionesses zero in on it. The mother and calf were left at the back of the herd and appeared to be a sure thing for the ever-present lions. Courageously, a lone bull buffalo returned upon hearing the bellow of the calf's mother. Between the mother and bull, they successful managed to escort the calf back to the safety of the herd. "A very happy and satisfactory ending to what could have been a very sad termination of a new and innocent life", so commented some very relieved guests.

The Pantry pride has moved back into the camp island, resulting in more regular sightings. The pride seems to be fairing a lot better, often seen with full bellies. The cubs are now 18 months old, remaining very playful, often enticing the adult females into a hilarious game of chasing each other all over the place. From what we witnessed, they sure need all the practice they can get before they take on any buffalo. The best Pantry pride sighting involved the entire pride setting off after two buffalo bulls at sunset. Just as the buffalo reached the water in front of camp, one of the lionesses managed to leap onto the buffalos back. This slowed the buffalo down sufficiently for the rest of the pride to jump aboard and force the buffalo down. Quite amazing to watch the fearless cubs taking part in the hunt. As we enjoyed our sunset drinks watching the lions feed, the Duba Boys decided to enter the fray. This they did very peacefully, no doubt due to the immense respect shown by the lionesses as they nuzzled up to rub head to head with the two Boys. Dinner at camp that night was regularly interrupted by the snarls and growls that erupted as the buffalo was reduced to skin and bones.

The Duba Boys continue to preside over the Pantry and Tsaro pride, but never venture back into the domain of the New Males. Although the Duba Boys still appear to be in great shape, they are facing more and more resistance form the five young Tsaro Males and four Skimmer Males. No longer do these younger males give way to the Duba Boys, but rather they stand their ground with much vocalization and aggression. The four Skimmer Males are now completely separated from their natal pride and have become nomads. We thought one of the older Skimmer males had been killed, but then he appeared again on the last day of the month sporting a few fresh battle scars. The remaining three males shared several kills with the Tsaro pride and were regularly seen exploring parts of their territory. Although some aggression was seen between the various males, they were surprisingly tolerant of each other. Only time will tell how they sort themselves, but one thing seems certain and that is the presence of the two New Males first located in October 2002. These two beautiful specimens have successfully laid claim to the Skimmer pride, with some mating being recorded. One incident saw the dark maned male fight off the Skimmer Males from a fresh buffalo kill. He strode around for sometime with his awesome mane and chest puffed out. The Skimmer males cleared the area and were found many miles away by morning.

Lastly, the Skimmer pride is moving back south to their usual winter haunts and bringing their new males with them. With the floodwaters rising and dry hunting areas becoming highly sort after, we will no doubt witness some fascinating encounters in the months to come. Hopefully the Skimmer lionesses will produce some cubs and perhaps the Tsaro lionesses will begin mating again. Fascinating times lie ahead and we all look forward to welcoming our many guests to share in these experiences.

"Cowboy" Introduces Safari With a Difference, May 18 2003

Cliff Sitwala Ng'andu was born in Pemba, Zambia 32 years ago. He is popularly known as the "Local Zambezi Cowboy" of the Zambezi Waterfront Lodge in Livingstone (the Zambian side of Victoria Falls). Mr Ng'andu earned the name because of the enthusiastic, energetic cycling safaris that he provides.

Breaking away from the usual wildlife viewing drives Mr Ng'andu, who is a tour guide and full-time employee of Zambezi Waterfront Lodge, has enticed many tourists into participating in tours on bicycles.

Mr Ng'andu, also a cyclist, dreamt of sharing the beauty of Zambia through cycling which he describes as the easiest way of taking people on tours. He had no start up money but could not at the same time leave it and let someone else put his idea into practice. Mr Ng'andu decided to save a bit of money from his salary and cut down on his personal budget. "It took me three months to save for quality mountain bikes. I succeeded and bought two mountain bikes.

"To hire one with my guidance costs US $10. For those who are courageous enough to go unguided, it costs US $5," he says.

The demand has been so high that Mr Ng'andu now has 15 mountain bikes with a high number of clients going on hired guides with him in the lead. The tours start from the lodge, along the Zambezi River and through Muyombo Woodlands where he has made special tour trails.

Guiding his clients through the special trails, they cycle through the bushes to look at nature; trees, birds, viewing of buffalo and elephant. The trails lead them along the Batoka gorge east of the Victoria Falls.

Although cycling tours are not permitted in Mosi-0-Tunya park, Mr Ng'andu is able to cycle his clients round the park and still get a good view of the exotic animals.

Eventually the trails lead to the Victoria Falls curio market, villages and Livingstone market which is a great attraction to tourists because of its traditional foods and the opportunity to interact with the locals.

During the tours, the Local Zambezi Cowboy carries water in a cooler box and if one is hungry, he encourages them to buy fruits from the village market to boost local businesses.

The Local Zambezi Cowboy donates 10% of his monthly income to his community in Kashitu, a run-down township. He says Kashitu, the place where he grew up, has many people struggling to make ends meet. The Local Zambezi Cowboy says the money he donates to the community is used to boost education in the area and up-grading a preschool which he has started. Having been deprived of education in his early childhood, the Local Zambezi Cowboy vowed never to let other children go uneducated.

Donning a pair of blue shorts, cap and a local Cowboy T-shirt depicting the Victoria Falls in front and an elephant and rhino at the back, he says that the community in Kashitu is very appreciative of his gesture.

Double Luggage Allowed on Safari, May 18 2003

Delta SkyMiles Offer, May 18 2003

New Photos Safaris for Serious Photographers, May 18 2003

New "Healing Matters" Safari, May 18 2003

US Warns Against Kenya Travel, May 25 2003

On May 16, 2003 the US State Department issued the following warning regarding Kenya:

This Travel Warning is being issued to alert Americans to increased security concerns in Kenya. Due to increased security concerns, the Department of State has authorized the voluntary departure of family members and non-emergency personnel at the U.S. Embassy in Kenya. The Department warns Americans to defer all non-essential travel to Kenya at this time. The Department recommends that private American citizens in Kenya evaluate their personal security situation in light of the current terrorist threat and consider departure from the country as one option to ensure their safety.

The U.S. Government has received indications of terrorist threats in the region aimed at American and western interests, including civil aviation. The government of Kenya might not be able to prevent such attacks. One major airline has suspended service to Kenya.

The threat to aircraft by terrorists using shoulder-fired missiles continues in Kenya, including Nairobi. Terrorism poses a continuing threat in East Africa. Terrorist actions may include suicide operations, bombings, or kidnappings. U.S. citizens should be aware of the risk of indiscriminate attacks on civilian targets in public places including tourist sites and locations where westerners are known to congregate, as well as commercial operations associated with U.S. or western interests.

American citizens in Kenya should remain vigilant, particularly in public places frequented by foreigners such as hotels, shopping malls, restaurants, and churches, and should also avoid demonstrations and large crowds. In particular, there is an increased threat against westerners in the capital, Nairobi, and the coastal region.

U.S. citizens visiting or resident in Kenya are encouraged to register with the U.S. Embassy. Security updates are e-mailed to all registered Americans monthly. American citizens may complete a registration form on-line at http://usembassy.state.gov/nairobi/wwwhcon3.html or may request one by email at: kenya_acs@state.gov.

Germany Issues Kenya Travel Warning, May 25 2003

The German Government has urged its citizens not to travel to Kenya and the East African region. Germany's advisory barring "non-essential travel" followed what Intelligence officials said was information about possible terror attacks in Kenya, Tanzania, Djibouti and Morocco.

"The Foreign ministry makes the recommendation because of signs of possible terrorist attacks which could focus on foreign and tourist areas," the statement said but gave no details.

The US State Department has also issued a travel warning citing a "credible threat" of terrorist attacks in East Africa.

Last November, an Israeli charter plane narrowly missed being hit by two missiles fired by terrorists in Mombasa, Kenya.

Kenyan Tourism Body Lauds Government Over Security, May 25 2003

The Kenyan Government has been commended for beefing up security at major tourist points. The Kenya Tourist Concern boss, Mr. Samuel Munyi said the move by the Government to enhance security in all airports, hotels, game parks and reserves is a move in the right direction.

A special Anti - terrorist Unit composing of 450 specially trained police officers was formed last week. The force, according to the Kenyan Minister in-charge of National Security, Dr Chris Murungaru will work with other international security agents.

Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp Report, May 25 2003

Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp is located in Namibia's Namib Desert. Here is the camp's March and April report:

March has been a month of clear days and extreme temperatures. Throughout the month, temperatures have ranged upwards from 30C. We also experienced a brief rain shower early in the month. This was nowhere near enough but was highly appreciated. We thought this was the end of our rainy season and caused a bit of concern. Then April came, bringing with it a belated rainy "season". Just before the rain, hundreds of white butterflies filled the air pollinating the surrounding shrubs. The blue skies were then replaced with dark, drape like, clouds. The clouds opened with rain causing a fruity / herbaceous scent to linger in the air. This continued for 4-5 days dropping the temperatures to an average of 20C. The rain did not affect any activities and helped in creating the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets.

The day our guests arrive we introduce them to the area by guiding them through the property until a sundowner viewpoint is reached. During this time the guides explain the adapted fauna and flora of the desert. The guests then enjoy a drink of their choice, watching the sunset over the dunes. On there return they have the chance to see some of the nocturnal carnivores. The sightings we have had on several occasions are mainly cape fox, Bat-eared fox, Black-backed Jackal and less common the spotted hyena and aardwolf. The spotted eagle owl is also sighted frequently.

The next day is an early start. We are now waking the guests a 4:00 AM to see the spectacular dunes. This is a full days activity which includes walking, climbing of dunes - Big Daddy is still a challenge for the fit, great photographic opportunities and a lovely picnic brunch is enjoyed in the shade of an Acacia tree. After the brunch the guests have the choice to include Sesriem canyon.

Sossusvlei is known to be one of the best areas for stargazing. We are making very good use of our telescope and are exploring the heavens with our guests. This is always a great way for our guests to spend their last night in the camp.

If our guests are staying for 3 nights we include Naukluft Mountains hiking trail which is fantastic for bird watching. Kudu and Hartmann's Mountain Zebra are also frequently seen while on the trails.

Tom Mangelson, who is a world famous photographer, visited the dunes. He had the opportunity to watch a springbok giving birth to her fowl. Another sighting, which needs to be mentioned, is that some of our guest were enjoying a balloon flight with Eric and saw a cheetah in the riverbed. Everyday is a wonderful but these were special sightings.

Skeleton Coast April Update, May 25 2003

Skeleton Coast Camp is located on Namibia's remote Skeleton Coast. Here is the camp's April update:

What can I say, there is never a dull moment at the Skeleton Coast. We had a fantastic month with a lot of excitement and fun. It is just so special and incredible just being here.

It feels sometimes like we have 4 seasons in one day. We have hot days and also very cold days. At the beginning of the month we had a few raindrops. Most probably about 2mm of rainfall and that was our total annual rainfall so far for this year. The Hoarausib River came down in flood again as they had big rains inland. Luckily no trucks got stuck or washed away. I remember Dave asked me to call him the morning before the Jack Hanna Film crew came in to let him know what the weather was like. I said to him that morning that the weather looks good, it is a wonderful morning with a couple of clouds inland, but here at the camp it looks good. Just as the whole group arrived that afternoon, it started to rain. And that whole afternoon was raining. Luckily the guest were very happy and did not complain at all. After the 100+ raindrops, we had hot days again. The last couple of days of the month were fairly cool and actually chilly in the evenings and mornings.

In terms of safari experience the Skeleton Coast was rated as the #1 place by all the guests we had in April. Partially it is because we keep them busy the whole time. We take them through this magnificent desert and all the landscapes that this area offers. We still do the Himba people, and Douw and Chris started to do the full day trip, driving over the mountains to the river to search for desert elephants. Our desert friends are being seen again after they must have moved off into the interior. Chris Bakkes saw 6 elephants and Douw saw 9 elephants. The area inland is looking just so amazing. It is green after the rain and there are so many springbok, oryx and ostriches. The game is plentiful on that side.

The Cape Frio trip was still a highlight of the safari and all the guest came back with so many stories about the seals. It is a long day for everyone, but definitely rewarding. Then there was the famous "Garden Route", the Clay castles and the Highway to Hell drive at the Hoaruasib Mouth. Fresh Lion tracks are still found at the Poort and Mouth of the Hoarausib River. These lions are still in the vicinity. All of the activities were very pleasant and the guides and the guests enjoyed each moment of it. The sunsets, sunrises and fog made each trip so unique and unforgettable. We had a few walks with guest around the camp and in the Khumib River as well as at the Clay Castles. Some of the Lithops (those flowering "stones") came out in flower and it was very beautiful to see the small flowers with different colors.

The Jack Hanna Film crew was fantastic. All of them began their safari with a lot of fun and had ended it with a lot of fun. We had a surprise lunch for them on the beach and that day was so perfect. There was no wind, no fog, only sunshine, pleasant water and a beautiful day on the beach. The sea had looked very attractive that specific day and we had a good swim.

Robin Pope's Weekly Zambia Update, May 25 2003

Robin and Jo Pope run several very successful safari camps in Zambia. Here is their weekly update:

Robin has returned from his safari of the year to the Bangweulu Swamps full of excitement and stories which we all heard around the bar at sunset. A group of four travelers had stayed with us at Nkwali for 5 nights before flying off - a 50 minute scenic flight over the valley, up the escarpment and across the plateau to the swamps. This is a huge low-lying basin containing rivers, swamps and further north, a lake. It is remote, wild and very undeveloped. The locals hunt and fish as they have for generations. The "pull" is an extraordinary amount of birdlife including the extremely rare shoebill stork and tens of thousands of black lechwe, endemic to the area. So Robin and his group were in for a treat. The water level was only 400 meters from the edge of the grass airstrip - which is high.Last year, when I went in late June, it was a few kilometers away.

The main concentration of birds was along the edge where they were feeding - and there were thousands. Robin ticked a "lifer" - the spur winged plover (twitcher speak). A morning of poling through the thick reeds produced two of the elusive shoebill. Wading and stalking, they all managed to get close and take photos. No one returned with leeches! The game drive, that afternoon, was exceptional. Apart from the curtains of black lechwe, 200 tsessebe and many jackal were spotted. And amongst all this game were the majestic wattle cranes. Returning to camp, poling after sunset, the full moon lit their way through the pools. The local fisherman were always around, poling their dugouts, throwing nets, chatting and singing long into the night. "Magical" says Robin.

After 2 nights at Shoebill Camp, there was a short flight to Shiwa N'gandu, The Africa House, where Charlie and Joanna Harvey now reside. I have talked about this extraordinary place before, but for those of you who do not know, it is a huge English style estate house, complete with terraced lawns, a chapel, turrets, family silver and "drawing rooms". Built in the early 1920's by Sir Stuart Gore Brown and recently renovated by grandson Charlie this is quite the most unexpected experience in the middle of Central Africa.

Robin said they had an "amazing" and varied time. From the hill they walked up they could see the Luangwa watershed far off to the east - an incredible view. A visit to the Kapisha Hot Springs - lying in the warm mineral water in the forest, birding, walking and wonderful slanting light as they drove back through the miombo woodland. A yellow throated leaflove - a WHAT?? - was another lifer for Robin (we're twitching again!).

Joanna had previously found some notes on a furnace that had been used to make all the tiles for the massive roof - and we are talking many tiles here. Following the notes they have managed to find the old tile furnace built into the side of a river bank. The excavations were fascinating. The final night and 50 locals gathered on the manicured terraced lawn. A lion, who had been terrorizing the people and killing cattle and goats over the last few months had been finally been shot by Charlie a few days before Robin arrived. The lion was thought to have been a stray from the Luangwa.

The group re-enacted the killing of the lion, with someone under a blanket and others "beating" it to death with sticks. This "wake" was necessary to release the lion's spirit. The lion had been buried under a large spreading tree, along side a number of other lion graves from over the years. The lion had to be facing east "to placate the lion spirit", the tail was in the mouth "so it could not kill again" and the grave was trampled so "it could not be reborn". The lions were all thought to be previous chiefs returning!

So my husband returned, with a handful of beautiful Protea flowers for me (what a sweetie), and having had a fabulous time.

Back at the ranch another week of great wildlife viewing, wonderful morning breakfasts around the camp fire and fun had by all. I have to quickly mention the morning when the Simon's attention was drawn to across the river by baboons barking and through the scope he could see the pack of wild dog running in all directions. Never before have the "crew" scrambled so fast. Everyone quickly boated across the river to the vehicles and drove off the see the dogs. Not to be - the dogs were long gone!

An here is an update on Robin's house - golden grass to thatch the roof is arriving by the truck loads - all the way from Chipata. The local grass is too thick for "porcupine" thatching. The bundles, around 15 cm in diameter, are counted by hand. This week 10,690 arrived! Yona, from the office, spent 2 days sitting on a pile of sand, with a clip board on his lap marking down every 5 bundles as the workers piled them up. They have to be stored off the ground so the termites do not chew them! The "House with Five Roofs", as it has become known locally, is now half thatched and has started to look like it will be a house. With walls only - it is certainly just a building site. Willy-the-builder is now starting to plaster the walls and Francino-the-plumber (pronouncing the "b") has put pipes into the bathrooms. The mechanics at the workshop had a laugh as I tested out the re-enameled old fashioned metal baths that had arrived from Lusaka - stepping into them fully clothed of course. Then I had to ask Simon to join me to see which one should go into the honeymoon suite. All at 6:45 in the morning! Have a wonderful week, Cheers, Jo Pope…

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