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Wildebeest Migration Update!
January 1999

In the 1970’s the Government of Tanzania tried to change the lifestyle of the last remaining bands of bushmen, the Hadza, that inhabited the lake Eyasi basin. They were forced to settle down, given livestock, grain and tools and left alone to cultivate the land. But the settlement program was a failure, as the Hadza, hunters and gatherers, lacked agricultural knowledge. Once the livestock and grain had been finished they returned to the bush and regained their primitive status of free people.

Today the Hadza are still there, fighting a losing battle against progress that will eventually lead to the extinction of a lifestyle that has remained almost unchanged since the Palaeolithic era. The Hadza, who speak a click-language, similar to the bushmen of Kalahari, do not have chiefs, nor houses apart from rudimentary shelter made in the bush. They have no political system and roam the land in small bands. They hunt baboons, gazelles and dik diks or whatever game is still available.

The Hadza share the land with another remarkable tribe, the Barabaig or Datoga, also called "Il-man’ati" (the enemy) by the Maasai, a name reserved for warriors they value. The Datoga are tall handsome people. They are easily recognized by their black cloaks - worn by young warriors between the ages of 18 and 30. The women dress in goat skins and carve their faces around the eyes with ritual scares and tattoos. Although they were once reputed as fierce warriors, today they devote their lives to raising cattle in a region that extends from the Rift Valley, southwest of the Crater Highlands / Lake Eyasi basin and further south to Mount Hanang and Lake Balangida.

Our Classic Tanzanian Tented Safari offers insight into the world of these two tribes. Clients are able to enjoy visiting Datoga villages with traditional singing and dancing and are even allowed hunting. We believe that tourism, properly managed, will enable the Hadza to continue their lives and will help to show the Tanzanian Government that the Hadza are valuable as they add to the wonderful diversity of tribes in Tanzania and peoples of the World.

Now for the wildlife update - As the Southern Plains of Serengeti are still dry, new campsites have been chosen. At Ol Doinyo Rongai, a hill situated between Seronera and Moru Kopjes, you are able to enjoy magnificent views of the vast plains, the Simba Kopjes and Naabi Hill. Wildlife is plentiful, with herds of zebra moving slowly southwards, followed by lion and cheetah. Just recently a client enjoyed 3 visiting lion, a male and 2 females, that came to the camp and lay by the fire for one hour. The night was quite chilly and they probably thought it was a good idea to enjoy the heat!

In Tarangire the baobabs are now in full leaf with many in blossom. The bark of these huge trees, which contains calcium, is favored by elephant which are fond of chewing it. At night baobabs become "alive" as nocturnal creatures such as owls, bats and bush babies, that find shelter in the crevices of the bark awake.

Late breaking news just radioed into Arusha:

Rain has finally started falling on the Serengeti Plains. Thunderstorms have hit the Moru and Gol Kopjes area and have spread further south to Naabi and Ndutu plains. If the rain continues the short grass plains will soon turn green. Then the migratory herds will move into the area. The exciting spectacle of the calving season isn't far away!

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