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Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive

September 2004

Harry's Camp is No Longer, September 12 2004

Harry's Camp in the Mala Mala Reserve adjoining South Africa's famed Kruger National Park, is no longer. Mala Mala has advised that they will be building a new camp in its' place, again on the banks of the Sand River in the excellent location that has always been synonymous with Harry's Camp.

Rekero Camp Migration Update, September 12 2004

Here is an update from Mekoro Camp on the Wildebeest migration in Kenya's Masai Mara:

The Migration has well and truly arrived in The Mara. Wildebeest and zebra are regularly crossing The Mara River. Consequently the cats are being well fed and numerous kills have occurred only 100 meters from the camp. Two large male buffalo have set up residence in the vicinity, joining the particularly "vocal" hippo pods that occupy the Rekero section of The Talek River. On 27th August 2004 a well-known Cheetah - Keke - very casually wandered through camp, only 30 meters from the mess tent. She then took up a familiar pose on a nearby anthill surveying the area for prey.

A number of "crossings" have been witnessed within camp, both zebra and wildebeest nervously congregating at different points along the Talek River and taking the risky plunge and scramble to safety at the other side. Even buffalo have taken the opportunity to cool off, albeit adopting a more casual approach to their crossings, seen from the breakfast table in camp.

The guides are working incredibly hard and having regular successful sightings of a whole host of rare animals - including caracal and serval. The abundance of lion has enabled guests to view some spectacular events. The pride known as The Rongai Pride (due to it's territory on The Rongai River) has been seen daily. On 28th August a group of 8 lionesses were seen in the beautiful morning sunlight creating havoc within two vast herds of wildebeest as they crossed The Rongai River. Unfortunately they were unsuccessful in several attempts, however, two lionesses' later made a "double kill" - a thrilling encounter.

James found himself having to provide a "helping hand" to nature. After stopping in the vicinity of a newborn zebra he found that it had taken a shine to his nice new Land cruiser. Unfortunately it got a little confused and took up shelter next to the vehicle believing it to be his mother! Even after trying to drive away the infant continued to follow. Fortunately James provided a "friendly" shove in the right direction and mother and baby were reunited after it's confusing escapade!

Jackson continues to impress with his ever-reliable knowledge. He has had a young apprentice in tow, namely his 11-year-old daughter on her school holidays - Damaris. She has been keen to learn as much as possible from her experienced dad. After sighting 8 cheetah in total on her stay, she was keen to see an elusive leopard (as of course are most people). Although "Leopard on Demand" is not something anyone should come to expect, Jackson is always going to be first choice when it comes to such a request - and he didn't disappoint. Contrary to what might be believed, an optimum time for sighting a leopard is in the heat of the afternoon - from 2 PM onwards. This is when leopards will climb trees to relax in any cooling breezes before starting their early evening hunt for food. A good start to the afternoon's proceedings was brought about when William and Rakita spotted a shy male leopard at a distance of about 400m in a tree near the Ol Kiombo airstrip. After being able to observe the animal for several minutes it climbed down and wandered off into the bush. Even though this was a good sighting in bright sunshine, Jackson was clearly on a bit of a mission and set off in search of more. After only a further 30 minutes of following the Talek River a group of wildebeest and zebra were seen to run out from a gully ahead of the vehicle, appearing to be startled by something. After maneuvering ahead to a suitable vantage point, an exciting sequence of events was to unfold. In a very picturesque part of the river, where a large tree overhangs it's full width sat a female leopard with a tight grip on a young wildebeest (It turns out that this was "Bella" - made famous by the BBC's Big Cat Diary). Watching "Mum" from the tree above was one well-grown male cub. The action was not to end here. Wildebeest are not known for having particularly good short-term memories. This was confirmed when a group returned to the bottom of the gully, having just left a member of their herd in Bella's clutches. Nervously they began to jump over the rocks to the bank at the other side, inches away from Bella. Not one to miss an opportunity Bella sprang into action again. She darted across into the path of the wildebeest and shot up the embankment after them. She missed a second kill by a whisker. An enchanting 45 minutes followed with a clear unobstructed view of Bella and her cub interacting and playing in bright sunshine.

Another successful feline mother has been a cheetah with 3 cubs currently spending time by the Musiara Marsh. After making 2 successful kills within 1 ½ hours, the future for this particular cheetah and cubs is looking very rosy at the minute.

The ever-abundant elephants have been a little scarce on the ground in recent weeks. Fortunately, those that are around are regularly spending time around camp during the day and night.

After an action-packed August there is much anticipation about what September has to offer in The Mara and for visitors to Rekero.

Victoria Falls Hotel 2005 Special, September 12 2004

Guests of the Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe may take advantage of a new special - pay for 2 nights and stay a third night for free. Guests will also receive complimentary laundry, complimentary High Tea for two, a 50 % discount on a massage treatments and a gift from the General Manager, David Seaman, upon arrival. This offer is is applicable to ALL room categories.

Tip: If you are only able to spend 2 nights, please request the 'three for two' offer and use the 3rd complimentary night as a confirmed early arrival or late departure!

Why spend 3 nights in Victoria Falls? This is a destination of incredible beauty, natural wonders and African delights ~ walk along the hotel's garden path to the Rain Forest; enjoy the Flight of Angels helicopter flip; indulge in an early morning sunrise or evening sunset Zambezi cruise; shop at Elephant Walk Craft market and bargain like a local; experience the magic of an elephant back safari; take a late afternoon game drive or bungi jump off the bridge, swing across the gorge, white water raft the falls… that's why. And you will have only scratched the surface as the peaceful and old world nature of The Victoria Falls Hotel demands time to unwind & reflect: Fine dining and dancing in the Livingstone Room, a guided historical tour of the Victoria Falls Hotel, afternoon High Tea on the Terrace with views of Batoka Gorge and the spray of the Falls, read a book and sip an iced tea at the Edwardian pool, with the rumble of the Falls and marimba drumming filling the air, pop downstairs for a glass of bubbly in the Bulawayo Room or join specialist guide, Russell Gammon, as he shares stories of David Livingstone's life followed by dinner at Jungle Junction restaurant… traditional dancing & singing add to the festivities. Return home refreshed after a massage at the hotel's beauty salon.

Star of Africa Update, September 19 2004

Star of Africa is one of Zambia's leading tour operators. Here is their latest update:

At Sussi Lodge at Victoria Falls guests have seen an increase in game around the lodge as the animals make their way to the mighty Zambezi River in search of water (most of the smaller streams and water holes are drying up). Guests have seen large groups of elephants, impala, hippos, giraffe and the cheeky resident monkeys in the last few days and expect these sightings to continue through to the start of the rains in November.

Mike Muvishi's name is now synonymous with the successful management of Chuma House, also at Victoria Falls. Mike has vast experience in the safari business spanning over 15 years, starting with the Botanical Gardens in Harare, Cresta Hospitality then Zimsun Leisure Group and eventually Star of Africa. A true guide with unequalled safari knowledge and hospitality manner, Mike is at home when it comes to bird watching, game viewing and identification and growth patterns of most trees in Southern Africa. Here are a few recent guest comments:

"An amazing experience. Thank you so much to everyone at Sussi and Chuma for making our wedding and our stay beautiful". Ian and Lynne Testro - Australia

"Without Ritta we wouldn't have been in this fabulous paradise. Thank you very much for the wonderful experience we have had here. Waking up our first morning seeing an elephant walking from one island to the other side was truly magnificent". Anahita, Daryoush and Charity Kianpour - USA

"We had a lovely stay we only wish we could have stayed longer. Sussi is a very special and unique place - we'll see you again I hope". Essenbaum family - USA

At Lechwe Plains Petros Guwa reports "The water level in the lagoon is dropping rapidly, creating a lush green plain in front of the camp. Hundreds of lechwe have moved onto this plain, grazing happily on the fresh grass that is sprouting. As the season progresses we are expecting several thousand lechwe to congregate right in front of the camp - a spectacle not to be missed. Birding has been brilliant with some of the most sought after species in abundance. Both white pelicans and crowned cranes have become a daily sighting and a giant eagle owl and a red necked falcon have taken up residence in the winter thorn (faidherbia albida) in front of the camp".

At Kulelfu Camp on the Lower Zambezi River guides report: "With the bush opening up and the wind picking up, blowing the pods off the many trees we have seen a lot more game coming into camp now. The fishing at the moment is fantastic - with almost every cast there will be a fish on the end! One of our clients managed to pull in a 35kg vundu and was absolutely delighted! We have a pregnant lioness in the area and are expecting her cubs to arrive shortly which we are all very excited about. We have spotted pangolin and aardvark on night drives recently which has been a great treat for both our guides and clients. The buffalo herds have been sitting in the reeds in front of the Zambezi River watching us having our lunch and the elephants have started wandering through the camp again. We have had a busy couple of months and have some fantastic feedback from our clients:

"A truly superb spot - many thanks for the many wonderful memories we will take back to England". Bobby Schrader - UK

"Wonderful staff, fantastic camp, wonderful game drives - thank you all very much for such a fantastic experience". Ros and Han Vos - Australia

"Thank you very much - you live in Paradise. Thank you Andy and Catherine and all the rest of your wonderful staff for sharing this with us". Mary-Lou Callin - USA

"We enjoyed the variety of activities and wonderful staff. A beautiful camp and a beautiful country". Barbara Bromell - USA

"You made us feel so welcome. Everyone was gracious and helpful. We did have wonderful sightings of lion, elephant and hippo". Janet Brooks

At Chichele Presidential Lodge and Puku Ridge Tented Camp Nick, Tracey and Rodgers report: "We have had the most amazing game sightings over the past two months. Zebron found 6 wild dogs chasing a large male leopard not far from Puku Ridge. Rodgers found a leopard kill, then witnessed a couple of hyena steal it while the leopard watched in despair. That same night he saw another 2 leopards. The President of Zambia, his Excellency Levy Mwanawasa stayed with us again in July on his annual holiday. He thoroughly enjoyed his stay with us and has promised to return again at the end of the year".

The following has been taken from Rodger's sightings diary during the month of August: "Saw 6 wild dogs hunting. Two gave chase on Puku but did not succeed in killing". "6 lions on a buffalo kill identified on a walk. Saw vultures on trees and walked close". "Saw 3 lionesses walking through Puku Ridge between Tent Number 3 and the Main dining area". "2 leopards on a kill - male and female. The male relaxed and left the kill on a tree. The female went up a tree and pulled the kill down and fed from the ground". "2 leopards trying to kill baboons but failed. The baboons ran away but with a big wound". "3 lioness on the Manzi River trying to hunt buffalo. Stalked but failed and gave up". "2 elephants passed through the Dining area at Puku Ridge"

Some guest feedback: "6 leopards in 3 days - do I need to say more?! Thank you for your great hospitality in beautiful surrounds". Sussi Beaton/Magnus Sahlin - South Africa/ Sweden

"Unbelievable hosts. Thanks for soo much special treatment! Nic, you rock! Tracey, what a doll!! Lodge, amazing. soo many "unique" little touches don't go unnoticed. Food. heavenly - walks, exciting!! 3 leopards on one night drive"!!! Lorena Walton & Joanne Simerson

"After the village, this is heaven - from the moment of our arrival - THANK YOU for your hospitality, patience, expertise and vision. The idea that God granted domain over all of creation has taken on new meaning! Respect. protect. conserve! Our guides were awesome! Many thanks"! Joe Cincotta

"Amazing! I had a wonderful time. Special place, special people, special memories. Thank you all". Emma Gardner & Lina Lamb - USA

"Such a lovely place, enjoyed the service, felt at home. Will come again that's a promise"! Hzik & Lidush

"Thanks to all of you for a great experience. Words do no t come easy - top class all round"!! Haggar family

"What a great place, enjoyed every minute - good staff & service. Excellent game & birds - Thanks Chichele". Gary Taylor

" Third time in 20 months and that says it all, except that it seems to be even better"! Patrick & Allison Crawford - Australia

Star of Africa have now received a new Cessna Grand Caravan which has dramatically improved operations. Direct charter flights in the twin-engine aircraft direct to Kruger Park, Maun and Mozambique are on the increase, as clients realize how quick and easy it is to access the heart of Zambia directly without the fuss of connecting flights and delays.

Robin Pope Safaris Weekly Update, September 19 2004

Robin and Jo Pope are two of Zambia's most famed tour operators. Here is their latest update:

Jeffrey here…back at my old desk for "one time only"!! I'm fortunate to be visiting RPS this week and from the moment I arrived it has been one huge, wonderful trip down memory lane. When asked (or rather, instructed!) if I might consider writing this week's newsletter I was naturally very happy to oblige. In fact, when I drove into Nkwali, where I lived and worked for three years until 2003, my instinctive reaction was to "get on with some work"!! The happy reality is that I'm on holiday so I've been putting my feet up whilst everybody runs about keeping the RPS cogs turning!

I have to say HOW WONDERFUL IT IS TO BE "HOME"!! The past week has made me realize just how special "the Valley" is…how incredibly beautiful this remote wilderness area remains and what true friends I have here. Warmly welcomed by the RPS team, as all guests are, one immediately feels part of the family, gin and tonic thrust firmly into hand!

Apart from catching up with all the gossip (nothing worth mentioning here - this bunch are as good as gold, believe me!) I've had plenty of time to recharge the batteries and take a good look around. In essence, everything appears to be the same but it is amazing how things change so quickly! For a start, I'm sitting in front of a computer which is now connected 24 hours per day to the internet!! And Kim saw fit to have an air conditioner installed into my old office!!! Whatever next??

Back of house at Nkwali there is a vastly improved "cage" for staff to eat, drink and entertain themselves in and new housing dotted about. The vegetable garden is outstanding with possibly double or triple the types of plants grown and now all the leaf salads and herbs come directly from the garden! As you would know, Robin and Jo have built themselves a new home behind Nkwali. It is big, bright, airy and welcoming - as you would expect! I've enjoyed a couple of delightful lunches and dinners in their home whilst watching the elephant and giraffe drinking from the lagoon out the front!

You've heard about Nkwali's new bar and deck - it is an obvious improvement and takes nothing away from the simplicity of the camp. One now enjoys a clearer view of the vivid red sunset whilst sitting on the edge of the new decking! I had a wonderful drive with Possum and Karen Heshon up to Tena Tena and Nsefu to visit the staff. The Nsefu Sector is paradise - at this time of year you can see for miles in all directions so it's prime walking territory, the game viewing is superb and you rarely come across other people. The camps are looking fantastic - again, like I never left!

It will be so sad to say goodbye at the end of the week but I will definitely be back - this place gets into your blood!

Meanwhile on the game viewing front Kerri has sent down some pics from Nsefu. These include a baby giraffe and mother who seems to have moved from further north to Nsefu and is often seen getting up to mischief and coming close to the vehicle to get a closer look. A hyena is also featured, obviously with plenty of milk and nursing pups but although footprints of the pups are all around the dening site they have yet to be seen. The matriarch was however captured by Kerri whilst chewing on a buffalo bone from an old kill. An excitement at Nsefu was a lion in the lagoon just by the bar - everyone climbed up onto the termite mound in camp to have a closer look - meanwhile fearless Kerri popped around the front to take a photo of the all - hoping they would tell her should the lion decide to wish for closer inspection of Kerri! Please go to our website: http://www.robinpopesafaris.net/ and click on It's Monday Newsletter to see pics.

Stay well and have a great week, Cheers Jeffrey

Wilderness Safaris Takes over Abu Camp in Botswana, September 19 2004

Wilderness Safaris of southern Africa, from 2005, will be handling the marketing and reservations for Elephant Back Safaris in Botswana. The operation will remain under the ownership of ardent conservationists, Alistair Rankin, Colin Dhillon, and Murray and Kenneth Collins.

Elephant Back Safaris' animal focused program offers guests the rare opportunity to communicate with a special herd of elephants, consisting of mature bulls, cows and babies. The program works towards bridging the gap between man and animal. They will be adopting a new approach to how the elephants are handled and will be creating a once in a life time experience for guests, who will be able to get up close and touch these awe-inspiring animals, not only on a physical but an emotional and spiritual level.

Visitors will have a chance to share intellectual space with the planet's largest and most intelligent land mammal. The team will concentrate on developing and promoting a comprehensive educational awareness program, which will inform guests about the important position that elephants hold within the ecosystem and the issues surrounding their existence. Wilderness hopes that this program will assist guests in making an informed decision regarding the elephant's situation in Africa. Guests are also invited to join the resident Bristol University researcher in her study of adolescent male elephant behavior.

Elephant Back Safaris' Abu Camp is located on the western side of Botswana's Okavango Delta. Guests will be touched by a life-changing journey as they spend time with the herd that have the run of half a million acres of Delta, one of Africa's last true, pristine wildernesses. No effort has been spared to ensure that guests enjoy this unique experience in total comfort and safety.

During the elephant back safaris guests are seated in large padded saddles, which are mounted behind the most experienced and knowledgeable elephant-handlers in Africa. The camp, concealed in an ancient riverine forest, consists of five extremely luxurious, custom-built and stylishly-furnished tents. The lavish bedrooms, with mahogany four-poster or antique sleigh beds, are complemented with plush en-suite bathrooms complete with copper or porcelain baths, shower and flush toilet. Every tent has a different style but all reflect the very high standard that defines Abu Camp. A private, tree-shaded deck with a hammock overlooks a lagoon frequented by a myriad of bird and animal life.

On the other side of the lagoon, a five-minute drive from the main camp, is the completely private and secluded Elephant House, which is a new addition to Elephant Back Safaris. Built in the same style and standard of luxury as Abu Camp, Elephant House sleeps four people, in two double bedrooms, each with en-suite bathrooms. After an elephant experience or early morning game drive, with their personal guide and exclusive Land Rover, guests can spend time relaxing on the expansive pool deck whilst soaking up the beauty of their environment.

"Our elephant back safaris offer many magical, memorable moments, not least the opportunity to come very close to and even mingle with the wild animals. The herds of giraffe, zebra, buffalo and antelope are unconcerned by the approach of the elephant herd of which you are a privileged part. We also offer game drives in open vehicles or a day spent drifting through the tranquil waters of the Delta in a mokoro, the traditional dugout craft of the Okavango," notes Alistair.

Whether one wishes to commune quietly with the silence of the bush from the veranda of one's own tent, or exchange stories around the fire, Abu Camp is the perfect hideaway for a safari to remember and savor forever.

For 2005 guests will be offered three night safaris, with set departure dates.

Muchenje Lodge Update, September 19 2004

Muchenje Lodge is located on the western boundary of Botswana's famed Chobe National Park. Here is Sandi's latest update:

A lioness with 3 cubs has moved into the area hopefully for safety as she is trying to feed the babies on her own. I also think she was brought up in the same place about 3 years ago and "came home" so to speak as there is much less chance of the cubs getting killed here - we hope. I saw Mum chasing zebra right in front of the lodge at around 4:00 PM but alas, they got away. Then the next day one of our guests got very excited, came running up from the lower deck calling "lions!!!" Everyone left breakfast half eaten, grabbed their cameras, climbed aboard one of the vehicles and were off. Now some days later, Mum and cubs have gone back into the park, joined by her teenage son. At least he can babysit while she hunts. Today guests saw them on a kill so all is looking well. We've had several other kills of late and the lions are again becoming very active.

Leopard are being seen every few days - not camera shy as they have been seen walking along the road - in the park - and posing.

Wild dog have been seen again, just by the road, only 5 so not sure if they are down x 2, or the other 2 were with babies.

Night drives have been a little more active. Zebra, eles, genets, owls, and of course, impala by the score - even the occasional hyena.

We have 4 baby genets now living in the roof, giving much joy to guests (and me). They are not tame like Chibuku was (for those who met Chibuku) but they sit and wait every evening, above the bar, for their little snack of a sausage. I'm sure Mum knows they are safe and can go hunting without worrying about them getting up to too much mischief. We do not try to touch them so they will not become tame and one by one will, I'm sure, move on but hopefully, some will bring their babies back where they know they were raised and were safe. These were all born in the roof.

Pete's bird bath by the dining room - the glossy starlings and the babblers are vying for top position to get their seeds and cheese, along with crested barbet, boo boo Shrike and the occasional hornbill.

Carmine bee eaters are nesting again and some of the migratory birds are arriving, such as yellow bill kites and oriole so far - all seen quite regularly in the park.

Botswana Donates 500 Elephant to Mozambique, September 26 2004

Botswana is said to have the largest elephant population in Africa (over 100, 000) and has previously donated elephants to neighbors such as Angola. In a dramatic move to restart the war devastated Mozambique elephant stock, Botswana is to donate 500 animals. Alfonso Madope, Mozambique's National Director of Conservation said that the elephants would be transported by land to the Gorongosa National Park in the central province of Sofala. The last count in 2001 had Gorongosa's elephants at a mere 111 from 7,000 in 1979. The Mozambiquan government plans to repair the roads and paths in Gorongosa and develop a park. The elephants will be moved before the end of this year.

Gorilla Trekking Permit Fees Increase, September 26 2004 The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) has raised tariffs for park fees, permits and other activities. The price of gorilla permits has increased from from US $275 to US $360 per person, per trek. The new rates apply to all purchases of gorilla permits. However, those who had already paid deposits will not be affected by this change.

Sanctuary Lodges Botswana Update, September 26 2004

Sanctuary Lodges runs Abercrombie and Kent's Botswana safari properties. Here is their latest update:

Once again Stanley's Camp has had a good month with quality elephant sightings and most guests were able to enjoy mokoro excursions.

The Beshouri family stated that Stanley's was the best camp they had been to in Botswana. They added that it was the highlight of their holiday. One of the Beshouri sons went on a mokoro ride and got his shoes full of mud. Housekeeping washed them and left them to dry overnight. Hyena's ate the front of one of the shoes, which was found in a nearby bush. The family thought this was amazing and took the shoe back home with them as a memento.

At Chief's Camp the winter season provides excellent game sightings. The floods have compressed lion territories resulting in two or more different lion sightings on a game drive. This has also lead to "surround sound" roaring every night when each coalition competes with their now very close neighbors. Mating lions were seen outside room 2 and a male lion strolled through the camp just outside the reception area. Recently a leopard was seen robbing a hyena of it's impala kill. A leopard was also reported to have jumped out off a tree onto the impala underneath it! The first white rhino calf has been born from the rhinos that were introduced 3 years ago. Sergeant, the male rhino has been viewed a number of times but the calf has yet to be spotted.

July has been a relatively eventful month for Chobe Chilwero. Hyena's were spotted close to the main gate feeding on impala. Sunning pythons were spotted at the river edge and malachite kingfishers were seen nesting at Sedudu Island.

With temperatures rising it is with much delight that we are able to advise that Baines' Camp swimming pool is due to open during November 2004.

Please note that at Stanley's and Baines the elephant activity will not be available from January 15 to February 15, 2005 as their annual leave will be taken. Balloon Safaris are not operating at this time due to the high water levels. This will be reviewed at the end of November 2004.

Sanctuary Lodges Kenya Update, September 26 2004

The Wildebeest Migration is one of the world's greatest wildlife spectacles. The migratory animals seem to have turned up in incredible numbers this year. The wildebeest are currently moving from the Central Plains of Mara (Kenya), where they first settled after coming from the Serengeti, and the herds have taken three different directions with the majority heading towards the Mara Triangle. There has been some rain in the Mara, but not very heavy - making it perfect for game drives, as it settles the dust. The animals gather at the riverbed before the pressing weight of the huge herds force them to face the challenges of the river crossing, and these crossings have become the highlight of game drives. Guests at Olonana witnessed a crossing a few days ago where about three thousand animals crossed the river. With the rain and the anticipation of lush grazing, it looks as though the wildebeest could stay in the area for at least another month. Predators are enjoying this perfect opportunity for easy hunting and guests on safari have reported seeing several hunts while on game drives.

Olonana offers unique opportunities for guests on safari. This luxury camp is nestled in the Masai Mara Conservation area on the banks of the Mara River. Accommodation is in twelve double tents, each attended by a personal butler. Each tent has 2 queen size beds, en-suite facilities with hot and cold running water and a spacious veranda overlooking the river. Facilities include a swimming pool, elegant lounge/dining cottage as well as a large deck outside lounge and dining area for breakfast, sundowners, afternoon tea and stargazing. The Masai Mara is host to the most spectacular array of wildlife and activities at Olonana include game viewing drives (day and night), bush walks, bush breakfasts, lunches, dinners and sundowners.

Preservation of culture is one of Olonana's goals and achievements and the camp has established and supports a Maasai cultural village. The village is built along traditional Maasai lines, complete with cattle enclosure, outer palisade and traditional mud and cow dung huts. Outside the village is a traditional blacksmith's enclosure and an area for shield-making and other crafts. The Engang is home to four elders, their wives and families. Guests are invited to visit the village to learn about the Maasai culture in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Accompanied by an experienced Maasai guide, guests learn the medicinal uses of the trees and herbs, the social structure of the homestead, the role of women in their society and many more aspects of their daily life. Interaction and discussion is encouraged, so whether the ladies are building a hut, the warriors are dancing or the Oltorrobo is making fire, guests are free to join in.

The camp is also at the forefront of eco-tourism in Kenya with solar power, biodegradable products and a wetlands project which allows for all used water to be totally recycled. A tree planting project which aims to help curb the deforestation of the Maasai Mara gives guests the opportunity to purchase an indigenous tree that will be planted in the tree nursery area.

Masai Mara Update, September 26 2004

Here is another update on the wildebeest migration in Kenya's Masai Mara: A thriving landscape, with masses of animals have kept visitors very busy over the last few weeks. The wildebeest show no signs of leaving the Mara and why would they? Early rains have resulted in long, fresh grasses providing more than enough food for the wildebeest. Of course in turn this is providing more than enough food for the predators with many sightings of the cats looking extremely fat and very lazy.

Wildebeest crossings have proven to be both splendid and frustrating for all. We have witnessed quite a few large crossings. In between these crossings have been some agonizing waits as the beasts all milled around seeming to go round in circles before making the decision either to cross or more frustratingly to go back the way they came! Many a lunch has been put on hold as everyone in camp held their breath waiting for these wildebeest to make up their collective minds.

Tanzania Fuel Shortage, September 26 2004 Some days ago we received notice from BP that some aviation fuel supplies in Tanzania were 'running low'. On further investigation since then it's transpires that the Avgas supplies are at very real risk of running out altogether - well before the next shipment arrives in October. As you can imagine this has caused much consternation for aviation companies using piston-engined aircraft.

There are ingenuous plans afoot to bring fuel in from Kigali & Bujumbura, among other exotic hotspots in the region, but despite everyone's best efforts, many tour companies will be forced to reschedule a substantial amount flights.

Chobe Park Anthrax Outbreak, September 26 2004

There has been an anthrax outbreak along the Chobe River and certain parts of Botswana's Chobe National Park have been closed. The main area affected is the area from Serondela westwards to the Ngoma gate. That part of the park is closed for now - and probably will be for the next two weeks or so.

Americans in particular always think of anthrax in terms of weapons of mass destruction.... but anthrax in Africa is nothing to get too concerned about. This is the scoop. Anthrax is found just about all the way through Africa. Parks like Etosha, Kruger etc have regular outbreaks - and some animals die each year from this disease. But no humans are affected in any way. A person can sit next to an anthrax infected carcass and not get sick at all. The only time one is at risk is if one gets covered in blood / gore of an infected animal and this blood / gore finds its way into ones body. Only then is it remotely possible that you can get infected.

Anthrax in Africa is endemic - and life goes on with it being all around us. When there is an outbreak of anthrax, the key is to burn or bury the carcasses of the dead animals so that the spore can't be translocated to other areas by vultures, predators and other scavengers.

Foreigners in particular seem to be worried about Anthrax - but this is because of the role that the media has played in this disease post 911. It is possible for chemists to take the natural anthrax spore and refine it in a laboratory and manipulate this spore so it becomes super potent so it can be used as a terrorist weapon that can affect humans. But that is not a risk out in African parks.

Muchenje Lodge located on Chobe's western boundary has noted: So far about 150 animals have died, mostly buffalo, I think about 3 elephant and 1 lion. They have closed this end of the park this afternoon so the full day activity came back along the tarmac road from Nantunga. Every one was thrilled with their day and there were no adverse comments. We will not be able to do early morning drives so will offer nature walks with a picnic lunch in the park for those on their 2nd full day here, arriving back at 6:00 PM for sunset by the river - in front of the lodge.

The Botswana Park's Department has made the following statement:

As previously reported, there is an outbreak of anthrax in the Chobe National Park. This outbreak is still continuing and now affects the central and western portion of the Park along the Chobe River. To date some 150 animals, mostly buffalo, have died as a result.

In order to allow the staff of the Department of Wildlife and National Park to dispose of the carcasses, prevent any threat to public health and further spread of the disease, the affected portion of the Chobe National Park is closed for all public access with immediate effect. The public will only be allowed to travel in the river front area between the Sedudu entrance gate and the Serondella picnic site. No travel or entrance in the park will thus be allowed in the area between the Ngoma entrance and the Serondella picnic site until further notice. Travel between Kasane and Ngoma will only be possible over the tar road between these two locations and not along the river. As the Ihaha public campground is situated in the affected area, it is closed with immediate effect as well. Signed, J. Matlhare, Director of Wildlife and National Parks

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