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Ultimate Africa travel and wildlife news archive

April 2002

New Zimbabwe Travel Warnings, April 7 2002

10 countries have intensified warnings against travel to Zimbabwe as growing international pressure mounts on the Zimbabwean government to improve the country's human rights record and solve a deepening political and economic crisis.

The United States, Britain, Canada, Germany, Australia and Sweden have advised their citizens against all holiday and non-essential travel to Zimbabwe until the political situation in the country improves.

Other countries that have also warned against on non-essential travel to Zimbabwe include Denmark, Finland, Italy and Belgium.

The US, which had initially told its citizens to avoid traveling to Zimbabwe before March 31, this week extended the warning by a further four months to July, pending an improvement in the political climate.

Canada, one of the first countries to denounce last month's disputed re-election of President Robert Mugabe by severing all economic ties with Harare, has ordered Canadians to avoid all travel to Zimbabwe unless they have critical or compelling business and family matters to attend to.

Several countries, including the US and the 15-nation European Union (EU), have imposed smart sanctions against Mugabe and his ruling elite, accusing them of gross human rights abuses and of plundering the resources of the once-prosperous country. The EU is expected to meet next week to consider widening the smart sanctions against Mugabe and his officials.

US State Department Zimbabwe Travel Warning, April 7 2002

March 29, 2002 - This Public Announcement alerts American citizens to the potential for further violence following the presidential election in Zimbabwe. This Public Announcement supersedes the one issued for Zimbabwe on January 23, 2002, and it will expire on July 1, 2002.

American citizens should consider postponement of non-essential travel to Zimbabwe until conditions in the country stabilize. US citizens in Zimbabwe should be aware of continuing conditions that could adversely affect their personal security. Although a president was sworn into office on March 17, 2002, the political, social, economic, and security situation is likely to remain fluid. Mass demonstrations remain a possibility, and there continue to be incidents of land seizures, roadblocks, and political violence and intimidation in both urban and rural areas.

The Government of Zimbabwe has enacted the Public Order and Security Act, which makes it an offense to "undermine the authority of the President" or "engender hostility" towards him. This includes speaking negatively of the President in public. The bill also bars individuals from speaking negatively of the police and carrying weapons of any kind.

American citizens should avoid public demonstrations or large gatherings and refrain from taking pictures or videos of political events of any kind. Americans should also monitor the local and international media for developments that may affect their safety. Additionally, American citizens should exercise caution when traveling anywhere in Zimbabwe.

Linkwasha Tented Camp March Update, April 7 2002

Linkwasha Tented Camp is located on a private concession within Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park. Here is the camp's March update.

There has been little sign of late summer rains and the wildlife viewing has never been better. Most of the wildlife is now concentrated around the "pumped" water holes, and we are seeing fabulous plains game and predators at the moment. We can assume that the sightings will get better as the days roll by. The animals in Hwange National Park are no strangers to these dry spells, and many of them have survived worse droughts before. It really is incredible how adaptable a lot of these creatures are. They are, after all living in a semi-arid environment.

Our pair of white rhinos have been seen almost every day, and what is really nice, is that they have moved closer to camp. I think it will be a matter of time before we will start seeing them grazing right in front of camp! The female might be pregnant... Everybody has their fingers crossed! The lions have been hanging around the camp, and roaring every morning. There is no better way to start your day, that to wake up to roaring lions, it certainly gets the blood pumping! We have two big males in our concession, so we have been getting some fantastic photo's of them, they really have settled down, and they don't mind the vehicles so much.

At night, the camp belongs to a young leopard, who routinely patrols the boardwalk, with a quick stop off at the curio shop... Just for a sniff! He almost always calls first thing in the morning, and anybody staying in rooms one through to three will hear him!

Spirits in the camp have never been higher. We have also had two guides (Dolf and Tendai) transfer across from Makalolo Tented Camp, so fresh faces, and a fresh landscape for them. They are really eager to get out there and have a ball with the guests!

We had a bit of a scare the other day, with three lightening strikes in the concession on the same afternoon. Fortunately, we managed to contain the fires, and hardly any bush veldt was burnt (we need as much grazing pasture as possible if things are going to continue to dry out). The skies are cloudless at the moment, so I don't think we will have to worry about another lightening scenario this year!

Makalolo Plains Tented Camp March Report, April 7 2002

Makalolo Plains Tented Camp is located on a private concession within Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park. Here is the camp's March update.

March has come to its end, with mornings getting a distinct winter nip to them. The lowest recorded temperature was 15C and the highest recorded was 35C. There were only a few rain showers leaving the camp very dry for this time of the year. 6 of our 7 waterholes are being pumped. Normally we start the pumps in June or there abouts. At this stage our waterholes are lower now than they were in November last year. The up side of this is that the wildlife viewing is awesome right now. Bush fires have already started, with a major one just the other day. Thankfully we managed to contain it, before too much of the concession was affected.

Jane has been pro guiding and managing Makalolo with the very able assistance of Moira and Ashleigh. Dave and Carol have been on time off and managed to visit both Rocktail Bay and Ndumo lodges in Maputaland, whilst in South Africa. Fausto has left Makalolo to do some freelancing guiding. He will also be doing some relief management and guiding for Wilderness, so we haven't lost him totally. Simon, Phianos and Dolph continue to guide and amuse their clients to the usual high standards expected here.

Tent 9 has been converted into a family room, so now families can stay together in one unit.

On to the wild life sightings. We are having the most awesome sightings and some very happy clients as a result. Every drive just seems to get better and better. There is a pack of 14 wild dogs that have been popping in and out of the concession. They have made two kills right in front of the lodge - a kudu cow and the other a duiker. It is tremendous to view them relaxing all day out front of the lodge! We have spent several interesting hours viewing them playing and chasing baboons, and all could be watched from the front of the lodge.

We have also been seeing a cheetah and her 5 sub adults hunting in the Little Mbiza and Marula loop areas. The sable, roan, kudu and eland are starting to come out of the wood work as the small pans in the forests and scrublands dry up. The 2 white rhino are still showing themselves in the Ngamo area. One group of 3 bateared foxes infront of camp been seen regularly and another of 6 at Mbiza - such lovely little chaps. Best sighting yet was a polecat with 2 chittering little babies on a night drive.

The hyena den continues to give us hours of entertainment. We now have one older one, 4 the next size down, and 2 new little black guys appeared a few weeks back. So we now have 3 age groups in the den. All of the cubs are in prime condition and we have seen no sign of any of the siblings trying to kill the others. The moms are extremely fat as well. They have been killing buffalo calves and juveniles. They also killed a baby elephant one night here next to camp - incredible noise from eles and hyena. They are also doing very well off the lion kills. There is also a porcupine living with the hyenas in the den. Very amusing when he comes out in the evening followed by the ever inquisitive hyena cubs.

Lions seem to be everywhere. Three prides about at the moment and two big independent males. "The Spice Girls" our five lionesses are nearly always in one corner or the other of the concession. We have witnessed them hunting buffalo on several occasions - incredible, interesting stuff. They have been mating with a big black maned lion, a beauty of a specimen. He has how ever had a very hard time with these five girls and put up with a lot of teasing and some very hefty clouts for his troubles. The other smaller, but aggressive lion seems to have taken a back seat now. The other pride of 4, a huge, but young, male and three lionesses are using the Little Mak area and killing a lot of buffalo and eland. The pride, consisting of mom and three young males we call the "Giraffe Killers", haven't been seen for a few months, so don't know if they have moved home ranges. "Coulette" and her three sub adults are nearly ready to fly the coup. We have had good sightings of them on wildebeest and buffalo kills, as well as some amazing hunting, killing and devouring of baboons. "The Spice Girls" continue to amaze us with their tree climbing skills, even though their descents are very heavy and clumsy. You'd certainly not be safe up a tree, from these girls. The other night we found one of the five up a tree stealing a leopard's baboon. She was not comfortable eating it up there, but overbalanced when she tried to climb down. After ages of indecision she left the baboon up in the fork of the tree. As she hit the ground, another two lions launched themselves up the tree and dragged it down, where they promptly devoured it with much snarling.

We are still seeing an amazing amount of leopards. We have had sightings of one drinking from the pool and still bump into one on the boardwalks at night. He has grown up here and uses the camp's boardwalks to hunt off. He lies on the board walk and drops down on to unsuspecting spring hares and duiker etc below. Clever fellow. Apart from the normal leopard sightings in the evenings, we had an unusual one a few nights back of three leopards together. A larger male stalking a young male who'd climbed to the top of a teak tree, plus probably a female up the tree too. We sat for half an hour watching these three. Lovely photo opportunity of them climbing around next to us and then on the ground right next to the vehicle. When we returned from seeing the mating lions out front of camp, these three were all curled up within the space of 20 meters asleep on the ground, quite incredible. At Little Mak we had a leopard kill a deserted buffalo calf at the pan and then climb up and hang the body in the False Mopane tree right infront of tent no 5.

There have been some interesting goings on with Harry and Pillow, the hippo males that live in the front pan. Pillow being the youngest, seems to be very sexually frustrated and showing some fascinating behavior. He often gets out the pan when big herds of buffalo come down to drink and walks around nosing those who'll let him. The other night a buff cow came down to try and soak a rotting lion wound on her rump. Pillow gave her no peace and kept gently nudging, and herding her. He then repeatedly tried to mount her and ended up drowning her. Flipped her to the edge and proceeded to lick and slobber all over her body. Two leopard came to see what was happening, and then seven hyena to cash-in on the free meal. Later that evening the Spice Girls arrived and took their share. It was a very late night for all of us in camp, as nobody could tear themselves away from this amazing sighting.

There are hundreds of elephant and thousands of buffalo around. Many little eles and buff calves too. Some clients nearly witnessed an elephants birth the other day. The little one was still covered in mucus, and mom was still discharging. The baby was very pink and had white feet. Incredible watching the mom and brother shepherding him to the pan and picking him up between trunk and foot when he fell. There are ever increasing numbers of eles drinking from our pool and this makes a fantastic spectacle on a moon lit night.

Birding continues to be good with over 2,000 white storks dropping in to drink and roost on their route north. There were 56 blacksmith plover in one area near a pan one morning. We have been seeing Miombo rock thrushes in the Ostrich forest.

Duba Plains March Update, April 7 2002

Duba Plains Tented Camp is located in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. For March there was only one rainy day producing 6mm of rain. The average maximum temperature was 35C and the minimum average was 21C. Winter seems well on its way, with early morning temperatures quite chilly.

The birding continues to be fantastic with some of the migrants still around. The channels produced enormous numbers of waterbirds eager for an easy meal of stranded fish and frogs.

There were several good leopard sightings involving our extremely relaxed 18 month old male. On a couple of occasions he narrowly escaped the Tsaro and Skimmer lion prides as he inquisitively followed a herd of buffalo at a distance. On both occasions the lions were more interested in the buffalo and only spared the leopard a fleeting glance. The pregnant cheetah of previous months seems to have moved on, with no sightings this month. Probably a good thing for the survival rate of her cubs with so many lions around would be very low. The nearby hyena den has two new little ones, only a month or two old. Some wonderful viewing of these inquisitive pups lies ahead. The lion prides definitely seem to be dominant at present, with the hyenas keeping much to themselves. No clashes were witnessed this month.

As expected the lion viewing continues to be superb. An average of 17 lions per day were seen, with a total of 47 different pride sightings over the month. For the first time in some years the Tsaro pride has come under pressure from another pride. One particular interaction witnessed by enthralled guests saw the entire Tsaro pride (14) chased from a buffalo kill by the Skimmer pride (10). The reason being the presence of the 2 four and a half year old Skimmer males. These young males are fast reaching maturity and have begun roaring and spreading far and wide. They are aggressive and confident enough now to take on the Tsaro pride all on their own, once to the detriment of a Tsaro lioness who paid the price with a torn flank. No permanent damage done. The Skimmer pride has produced two new cubs this month, about three months old. They are still being kept separate from their older siblings, but are soon expected to link up with the rest of the pride.

In anticipation of the floods immanent arrival, it seems the lion pride territories are starting to shift. The Skimmer pride is pushing the Tsaro pride to the south in order to claim more permanent dry land  for buffalo hunting during the wet winter months. This closely follows what we recorded during last seasons floods. The Pantry pride (5 lionesses and 10 cubs) is coming under increased pressure from the Tsaro pride, resulting in the shift of the Pantry pride's territory to the east. Only last night saw the Tsaro pride pull down three buffalo merely a couple of hundred meters from where the Pantry pride, with cubs, was seen in the morning. Time will tell how the Pantry pride fairs with the tougher winter conditions. This month confirmed the presence of ten cubs with the pantry pride, one lioness is still expected to bring her cubs to the pride in the near future. Many a wonderful afternoon has been spent watching the young cubs at play. All are in excellent condition, but here's hoping the flood levels are not too high. Last year saw them under immense pressure to find dry areas on which to hunt. With the addition of ten mouths to feed, this could be a tough season ahead for them.

The Tsaro pride continues to be our most regularly seen pride - 21 days of the month. The majority of the 18 buffalo kills witnessed this month, were carried out by this pride. They have ferocious appetites and regularly make multiple kills. The simplest means of tracking down these lions is to find the buffalo herds and then search the nearby shaded areas. The Tsaro pride has been seen split up with far greater regularity. The almost three year old subadults (10) are becoming far more independent and quite competent buffalo hunters. Upon making a kill, several of the lions may not even attempt to feed, but rather continue to hunt buffalo. The buffalo finally delivered their young at the beginning of March, late compared to previous years, usually beginning of December. This has slowed the herd down, resulting in many calves being picked off by the ever present lions. For the first time it seems evident that the buffalo numbers may be decreasing.

Lastly the Duba Boys - They are still the only dominant male lions in the area, but are under some pressure from the two young Skimmer males. They are regularly drawn into chasing the Skimmer males off. The Duba Boys must be approaching 10-11 years of age, so their dominance should be coming to a close sometime this year. They are spending a lot of time with the Pantry pride and perhaps further to the east, rarely visiting the other prides. They have had an extremely successful tenure, producing no less than 34 cubs from 14 lionesses over the previous 4 years.

One special sighting in camp this month saw a caracal catch a baby monkey near the hide in broad daylight and then drag it across the flood plain into a palm thicket. With all the new lion cubs around, the future lion viewing should be fantastic.

Best of Namibia Wing Safari Report, April 7 2002

If ever their was a safari to a specific country with a apt name then “Best of Namibia Wing Safari” is it. From the moment we arrived at Eros Airport where Eric our pilot from Sefofane greeted us with a warm welcome and assisted us to the plane, till we said our sad goodbyes - we were privileged to some fantastic wildlife sightings, genuine friendliness, efficiency from the camp staff, great guides and comforts of our accommodation. I must add that the on every sector we were given a safety brief - the landings and take off were straight out of the book and faultless. Eric our pilot was more than that, he was the perfect host and saw that everything when like clockwork. At Sossusvlei we were greeted like old friends and the plunge pools came in real handy and I would go as far to say they were essential. The rooms with their stunning views are amazing, we found our rooms clean and very comfortable. I must say that the trip to Sossusvlei again made us realize the awesome power of nature - the breakfast under the acacia trees was a real treat surrounded by the towering dunes. The flight over Sossusvlei the Namib Desert along the coast en route to Swakopmund was so amazing we did not know were to look - the ever changing colors of the dunes - amazing. The tour of Swakopmund and the harbor cruise with dolphins swimming adjacent to the boat, flamingoes and a host of other birds was almost too much to take in. The surprise lunch was yet another of our highlights! Damaraland Camp was my personal favorite and what a surprise - such genuine enthusiasm amongst staff of the camp I have never experienced before! We expected the landscape portrayed in the brochure but we found a sea of green and flowers to match the spectacle of Namaqualand. We did indeed find two herds of desert elephants which was great but our afternoon walk up to Som (lookout) was equal to the elephant sighting. Damaraland camp staff that night entertained us with traditional folk songs which had everyone foot tapping in unison to the music. Ongava Lodge was the last stop and we enjoyed every aspect of our stay - the luxury of the units with the views combined with roaring of lions in the morning made for a great stay. Though I must say our sighting of 5 white rhinos and 4 lions on Ongava all within 15 meters of each other came very close to a perfect sighting. Sadly we packed our bags and flew bag to Windhoek in total silence everyone overwhelmed by a remarkable safari. At Windhoek International we said goodbye to our friends Eric of Sefofane and Philip and Dinah from Australia.

It was an unforgettable fly in safari to Namibia - long will the sights, sounds, laughs and effortless service linger in our minds. I can not wait to return.

Robin Pope Zambia Update, April 7 2002

Robin Pope’s safari operation in Zambia is legendary…please find their latest report to our office below:

The wildlife viewing has been excellent with a pride of ten lions, leopard, lots of eles and all the usual suspects in the park. The Nkwali road has also been very productive as guests drive back in after the night drive. Daudi saw a lactating female (naturally) leopard walking down the road.  No sign of the cub(s) but hopefully we will be seeing them later. A serval cat was seen (a rare sighting) and Marcus saw a tree hyrax. I have to admit that Jacob saw one in December but we have never seen these animals in the area over the ten years at Nkwali.

Yesterday, as we sat under the ebony trees next to the lagoon to have lunch, an old favorite cow elephant and her two youngsters came down to feed and drink.  We know her well and she is easily identified by a groove at the end of her right tusk. They stayed throughout the lunch as we at first quietly and then after a couple of bottles of wine, less quietly, had our lunch.  I was delighted to have them come down to the lagoon so early in the season.

The river shot up this week - rising nearly two meters. It is so high that we can boat not only to but actually into the lagoon opposite camp to meet the vehicles for the drives. Boating is always such fun at this time of year. Robin and I had a little private sundowner boat ride on Good Friday.  There were lots of cloud formations and a few storms around so the sunlight, every shade of pink and orange, was bouncing around the skies and reflecting off the river. Quite magical and not a little romantic!

Early yesterday morning, Easter Sunday, Robin and I were sitting on our step having a cup of tea.  The river flows right past the house, and it is wide and full at the moment.  Then we saw a dark shape bobbing in the water just near us.  An elephant, a large bull, was crossing the river. It is too high for him to "walk" on the bottom and he had to swim across. With the current so strong, he was swept downriver about 500 meters as he swam. It was like watching a whale - the dark wet head came up, then disappeared, with only a foot of the trunk showing. I have never seen an elephant cross when the river is so full so it was fascinating. Robin described the time of the '78 floods, when he watched a mother carrying her calf across the river. She swam under the water, with the calf straddled across her neck. What a sight that must have been.

As I write this, I am being continuously distracted by the eles of yesterday’s lunchtime feeding outside the office. Hard to concentrate! So I will end for this week.

Botswana Expects Even Better Wildlife Viewing, April 21 2002

The lower Okavango flood levels this year mean that there will be more open plains exposed for activities compared to the past few years when water levels were higher than normal. Due to the dry conditions travelers should expect that wildlife viewing will be even better than the past two wonderful years.
 
In fact we predict that this year’s wildlife viewing will be the best that we have seen for many, many years. Already there are elephants and herds of plains game everywhere and guests are getting superb game viewing. In the Linyanti the elephant concentrations now are what they were in July and August last year. 

Botswana Continues Ban on Lion Hunting, April 21 2002

It has now been confirmed that 2002 will be another year of no lion hunting anywhere in Botswana. The last legally shot lion in Botswana was September 2000, so the lion prides will have had ample time to spread out and set up their territories unhindered by bullets.

Botswana Tsetse Fly Control Program is Working, April 21 2002

The entire northern part of Botswana’s Okavango Delta is tsetse free as a result of last year’s tsetse program. The authorities will be spraying the southern section of the Okavango this winter as well as re-spraying any problem patches in the north.

Chitabe Camp March Update, April 21 2002
 
Chitabe Tented Camp is located in Botswana's’ wildlife rich Okavango Delta / Moremi area. March was an extremely dry month with no rainfall. The concession is drying up quickly. Since the camp opened 5 years ago, nobody has ever seen our Trails crossing completely bone dry. With the dryness have come lots of great wildlife sightings. “Sherman” the elephant returned to camp this month which was a wonderful sight - he’s very early but greatly welcomed. He has been giving guests some great photo opportunities, amongst them some from the “loo with a view - an elephant view”!
 
We had some very successful sleep-outs at the Chitabe Hide, which the guests have raved about. With two of our guests, Trish & Dave Best from England, we were privileged enough to help make a life-long dream of walking with elephants come true. We walked near three elephant bulls, which got the
adrenaline pumping and hearts beating. There was a smile on Trish’s face
from ear to ear all evening. They were then dropped off with their guide, where they walked for about an hour, before arriving at the beautifully set up hide, bucket showers ready to go, mossie nets and mattresses and fully stocked cooler box. We cooked on the fire, went late night frogging, which was wonderful, then slept under the stars to the magic sounds of the bush.
 
George and Bill Holsten returned to Chitabe once again, this time without the rest of the family who were “earning a living back home”. When they left, we again quoted George telling us last year that that would be his final visit, but that we definitely expect to see him next year for his 93rd birthday!!! What an amazing man, and an inspiration to us all!
 
Our alpha female Wild Dog has been successful in getting pregnant, so we are crossing all fingers that they den in the area, and are successful with this
years new litter. We have had several sightings of a second pack of dogs
to the south of our concession, which makes a total of 3 different packs within the Chitabe area within the last two months. This is keeping our guides and Wild Dog researchers on their toes. We have had great leopard and cheetah sightings and our lion cubs have been successful so far and are looking very healthy! A fully-grown giraffe was taken down by our lion pride, which provided guests with amazing interaction between them, hyena’s, vultures etc., and even had the cubs playing in the carcass & sticking their heads out of ribs! The elephants have been moving throughout the concession, with herds of up to 70 being seen frequently.
 
Winter is definitely on its way, and we will have to start getting ready for those cooler mornings and evenings ahead!

Savute Elephant Camp Update, April 21 2002

Savute Elephant Camp, located in wildlife rich Chobe Reserve of northern Botswana, is renowned for the presence of its huge pachyderms (elephants) at the water hole just off the swimming pool, but just the other day wildlife viewing was taken to new heights and existing sighting records at this spot were shattered. The events of March 26th are best described as follows:
 
March 26, 5:00 PM - Three male lion stroll in for a drink. Wildlife viewing drives are alerted to the presence of the trio and head back to camp for a glimpse of the “King of Beasts”. The sighting however is short lived as the lion are denied access to the water by the equivalent number of bull elephant.
 
March 26, 8:00 PM - Dinner proceedings are totally disrupted as two male cheetahs tentatively venture to the now deserted water point for a drink. The presence of the spotted cats stirs up great excitement amongst guests and staff alike, as this is a first for the Savute Elephant Camp water hole.
 
March 26, 8:30 PM - Dinner has just started to return to normal, the cheetah now merely memories, when one of the guides jumps up and stares at the new visitor stealthily moving to the water point. A female leopard seemingly could not resist the now tranquil pool of water, where she could quench her thirst in peace. The atmosphere around the fireplace is electric as guests rave about the exclusive performance of the trio of feline. Little did everyone in camp know that this was not the end of the excitement?
 
March 26, 9:00 PM - The female leopard returns, but this time the water hole is over crowded by elephant and so she has to settle for the next best thing, the camps water feature. At the presence of the spotted cat our guests are quickly yet quietly escorted away from the fireplace and into the bar area. For here they are afforded a great view of the leopard at a respectable distance, while she laps up the cool clean water.
 
To end, Freddy Combrink states, “I think these 24 hours will be hard to beat, but as we know, in Savute every day brings a new surprise.”
 
Gametrackers Botswana March 2002 Update, April 21 2002
The dry conditions that have prevailed in northern Botswana will ensure some spectacular wildlife viewing. Up at Savute the Department of Wildlife and Parks (D.W.N.P) has started pumping water into the manmade pans. Further to the south, the Khwai River has now almost stopped flowing. This has left much of the huge hippo population crammed into the numerous larger pools along the river. At Eagle Island Camp the water levels also continue to drop. The water levels in the Xaxaba Lagoon just in front of the jetty are currently at 16cm and vehicles are quite able to travel through the flood plains and up the western bank of the Boro channel.
 
The annual Okavango flood waters are only expected in another five weeks or so. Rumor has it that the floodwaters are in the Mombo region and slowly continuing to move southward. The flood itself seems set on following a similar flow as it did last year, with the slower flow rate being the only difference.
 
A glance towards the north and west from Maun would lead one to believe that the entire Okavango Delta is on fire, and one would not be too far wrong. The expected fires, have arrived and with a vengeance. Eagle Island Camp has been at the center of the action as is the norm, however this year the fires have been worse than ever most likely because of the dry conditions. The entire area around Eagle Island Camp was burnt in controlled burns in order to halt the advance of a raging inferno that was moving in on the camp at around one kilometer every half an hour. With only 15 men the advancing fire was too big to try and extinguish and so a back burn was the only option left. The back burn met the advancing fire some two kilometers short of the camp with suitable results. Other operators (Abu Camp & Horse Back Safari’s) in the Delta were however ill prepared and nearly suffered great losses.
 
Up at Savute fires have also kept the D.W.N.P and Defense Force busy. After being lent fire beaters from Savute Elephant Camp the fire that was burning in the Quarry Hill area was brought under control.
 
Naturally the prevailing climatic conditions and fires in certain regions have had an effect on the regions vegetation. In those areas that have been missed by the fires both grass and trees have started to change color. This is also a sure sign that winter is on the way; some plant species have even started to drop their foliage.
 
The Marula trees are however dropping something else. Their delectable fruits are strewn under the canopy where they ripen to a yellow gold color and as a result create quite a stir amongst members of the animal kingdom. At Eagle Island Camp elephant are already giving the odd fan palm a shake. This is however very premature as the fruits from this tree will only start being suitable for the elephant in July/August.
 
Throughout the region the hot dry conditions are forcing wildlife to areas that are not typically visited by them at this time of the year. This has been particularly evident among the more water dependant species such as elephant and buffalo. Elephant have been very prominent in the Khwai and Eagle Island areas. At around midday these animals cannot wait to get into the water for a swim and one can only but wonder why their brothers up at Savute punish themselves by staying in such an arid region. Once the beasts have had their fun and have cooled down sufficiently they amble back into the bush for a bite to eat.
 
At Khwai huge buffalo herds of up to 400 have been frequenting the area. These herds are not only dependent on water; they also require lots of food in order to sustain their huge bulk. In this wilderness environment the presence of prey obviously attracts the predators, and these buffalo are literally becoming a “fast food” source for the local lion prides. Guests have been astonished by the lion’s ability not only in bringing down these 800 kilogram beasts, but also their ability to track them from miles upon miles. Being the opportunists that they are the lion do not hesitate to take what comes their way. This was demonstrated in a dramatic fashion when a pride isolated a young buffalo calf and its mother from the rest of the herd. The teamwork amongst the lion became very evident as they went in for the kill, bringing down the youngster in no time.
 
Other sightings throughout the region have included cheetah, leopard, African wildcat, bat eared fox and numerous species of antelope including an amazing glimpse of roan at Savute.
 
The majority of the summer migrants (birds) have now left, with the exception of the woodland kingfisher that can still be seen darting around within the dense canopies especially around Eagle Island Camp.
 
A special sighting occurred with a one off 50 species sighting at a drying pool along the Khwai River. The sighting included species such as pelicans, storks, herons, egrets, ducks, geese, plovers, stilts and cormorants. All the birds were feasting on the variety of fish that had obviously been trapped by the rapidly receding waters. At this time of the year such sightings are common throughout the delta as flood plains dry up. The sighting has to be seen in order to be believed, as the conglomerate of bird’s battle for every scrap of food. One can be very sure that once the bird’s leave for the next pool, nothing will be left and any attempt at fishing here will merely be a waste of time.
 
A variety of minor happenings occurred throughout the camps in March. At Khwai River lodge the “long nose gardener” has taken to the new landscaping and in the process broken two of the new blue pots. In conjunction, almost like tag team wrestlers the hippo are causing all sorts of havoc to the camps immaculate lawns and on one occasion got personal with the wooden replica at reception.
 
Eagle Island has on the other hand had some smaller yet more annoying problems in the form of flies. As if the presence of the biting tsetse fly were not enough, the delta seems to have been invaded by swarms of blue flies. This pest has made outside dining particularly uncomfortable and has resulted in “The Terminator” being called in to try and solve the problem.

Chikwenya Camp Update, April 21 2002

Chikwenya Camp is located adjacent to Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park. The camp has been having great elephant sightings (surprise, surprise) in the camp and all over the flood plains. Due to the dry conditions the jumbos were forced to come back and drink along the Zambezi River.

On one particular afternoon drive guests saw at least three hundred elephant on the floodplain between Grasshopper creek channel and the main channel of the Zambezi. At one stage they were surrounded by a breeding herd. Baby elephant playing all around them, sometimes trying to scratch themselves against the front tires. In order to protect the vehicle one of the guides banged the door slightly, just before the eles touched the car. In response, the babies would scream and trumpet, running back to their mothers. One large female jumbo came and dropped herself to the ground in front of the vehicle and started wallowing in the mud. As the guide turned his head to look at the back of the vehicle, he heard more trumpeting and saw a huge herd of elephant coming straight towards the vehicle. Not wanting to take any chances he started the vehicle to drive off but the elephant laying on the road completely ignored the vehicle and rolled to the other side, still in the middle of the road. The elephant at the back were now getting too close for comfort. Since the guide did not know when they were going to stop, or at least swerve to the side he managed to drive past the elephant laying on the road just past her feet (about a meter away). He stopped about 30 meters away. The seemingly berserk herd of elephants looked like they were charging the vehicle, stopped and joined a female which was wallowing in the mud. They trumpeted, screamed and threw mud on their bodies. When the guide turned and looked at the back of the vehicle, there was no-one in the vehicle! When he closely examined under the seats, he found the two clients laying on the floor of the vehicle with their faces looking down. They stopped there for at least an hour, and had sundowners. The elephant did not move.

When the guide and clients left the elephants were still wallowing in the mud. Those elephant really made the day.
 
 
Robin Pope Safaris Zambia Update, April 21 2002

Robin Pope Safaris operate in Zambia. Please find a recent update from Jo Pope below:

I am sitting here looking at brilliant sunshine, blue skies and small puffy white clouds floating by. But last night we had heavy rain. It started at 9.15 PM. Robin and I were at home, and dare I admit it, watching a video (yes I know, we bush folks are not supposed to admit to watching movies!). And it simply poured down. Soon we were moving our chairs from place to place and trying to ignore the drip, drip from the ceiling. I had to put the volume up full to win over the rain falling on the tin roof (Actually we did not win on the noise front and half the film was a question of trying to work it out!). In the end we moved the bed, the table, the books as new leaks started. This only happens in heavy rain but we are due a new roof. The sausages from the tree above, that have fallen (loudly) onto the tin over the last 6 years, have left dents and leaks everywhere. But the rain continued! We had 85 mls (nearly 4 inches) of rain in 4 hours. What is this heavy rain doing here in April? Luckily it is coming down at night. We woke up to a lovely day again. And despite the rain the river is dropping fast.
 
I was talking to an English guest this morning at the camp fire. It was his first time in southern Africa after a number of safaris in east Africa. He had not expected there to be so much wildlife at this time of year and said how surprised and delighted he was with everything they had seen in the week. The wildlife viewing had been excellent. Daudi took the clients on an all day picnic  drive and stopped at the Mushalashi Bridge. There were 4 wild dog on the bridge, standing on their hind legs to look over the railings and check out the scene. Quite a sight. The drive moved on and later in the day saw the dogs 3 kilometers down the road. The dogs were running around performing pre hunting greetings with great excitement and saying e e e e e e, dit dit dit dit which apparently means, according to Simon, “let’s go find ourselves an impala for dinner”! Then they shot off into the bush and disappeared.
 
The buffalo and kudu are two species that we do not often see at this time of year but they have appeared early. Herds of 40-50 buff are being seen and kudu bulls are appearing at Lupunga Spur - A great treat. The lions are around and there were tracks of two who had walked past the workshop, down the camp road and behind the compound one night. But leopard sightings have not been regular. The only sighting this week was a large male was spotted in the daytime, lying lazily along a big branch.
Kawaza Village has had their first overnight guests. A family (with a 6 year old) for 2 nights - And they loved it. Early in the season is probably the most interesting time to stay there (possibly unfair - it is always interesting!) as it is when the food for the year is being harvested. The locals have many ingenious ways of storing the food so that it lasts for through the dry season, and well into the rains. Pumpkin leaves are dried, rolled into balls and tied up. The maize is stored in kokwes, like granaries made of woven bamboo, and on stilts so the rats, in theory I suspect, cannot raid. The villages are a hive of “food processing” activity at the moment.
 
I am off for a swim in our lovely swimming pool…
 
Ndutu Safari Camp March Update, April 21 2002

Ndutu Safari Camp is located on the border of Tanzania’s famous Serengeti National Park. Visitors during March have been able to see the wildebeest migration in its entire, magnificent splendor. The wildebeest calves are still in their tan colored coats and will be for the next month before they gain the normal dark gray of the adults.
 
The other night guests were sitting by the campfire, enjoying a great lightning display far off to the north when suddenly everyone heard a rumble, which grew
louder - hundreds of wildebeest thundered towards the group. At first the guests didn’t know whether to retreat into the lodge or stay and risk being
trampled. They stayed and were treated to a fantastic spectacle as the wildebeest cantered past, just a few feet away leaving the smell of trampled grass and dust as they disappeared into the darkness. If the isolated showers continue, and they look as though they will, the wildebeest will continue to stay around Ndutu, and camp guests are bound to have many more special encounters.
 
Lions have also been very much in evidence over the past month. Guests witnessed part of one interesting but tragic encounter. A strange lioness strayed into the Masek Prides territory with three small cubs. Unfortunately she bumped into one of the Masek males. Pride males will never tolerate other male’s cubs and will try to kill them. Things didn’t look good for the lioness but she was bravely defending her cubs from the very large and impressive male,
which had cornered them. The cubs were in the water on a small sand bar, while the lioness was on the lakeshore in a stand off with the male. The male seemed reluctant to enter the water and all seemed hopeful, when everyone left as darkness approached. But sadly, some time later the female was seen on her own with no cubs at all.
 
Elephants dominated Ndutu Lodge the first week in March, as they came to drink and bathe daily in the lodge water hole. Sadly this was just too much for the hippo that had taken up temporary residence last month. I think that he finally cracked on the day when fifty elephants piled into the pool because he left that evening and hasn’t come back.
 
On another sad note, one of the area’s biggest and certainly most handsome bull elephants died this March. He was a familiar and very welcome sight
every wet season when he appeared from the mystery place in which he
spent the dry months. He was only ever seed during his musth period, when
he spent most of his time criss/crossing the area looking for estrus
females. Two years ago in May, he was see with a very young female elephant we call Daffodil and after twenty-one months and 8 days she gave birth to a bull calf. The guides know he mated with another female two weeks before he died and in approximately twenty-two months time, guests shall hopefully see his last calf and testimony of his success as a fine breeding bull. Interestingly the old bull ele was standing in front of the lodge looking magnificent only 6 days before his body was found. He looked in perfect health and was in full musth, streaming from his temporal gland and dribbling urine (The smell of a musth bull can knock you sideways. To female elephants it must be quite an exciting smell, maybe something like very expensive aftershave, but to me it just smells of old socks. Apparently the word musth is a corruption of the urdu word for intoxicated, as bulls can act rather aggressively when their testosterone levels rise). But even in musth, this bull was always particularly tolerant and approachable; he’ll be sadly missed.
 
Three new birds were added to the bird list in March. They were the Jack snipe, Eurasian stone curlew and short-eared owl. The birding of late has been stunning. Of special note is the huge number of European rollers being seen along with red-backed shrikes. Large flocks of common, lesser and white-eyed kestrels are passing over in big numbers, all on their way back to Europe.
 
Other March highlights include many cheetahs, especially all the tiny cubs born this year. In addition bat-eared foxes have done really well this year. There are many young pups and one pair close to the lodge has six pups. The large numbers of giraffe which are in the woodlands at the moment, the herds of eland on the plains, flamingos on the lake, and the vast flocks of guinea fowl which are just about everywhere, all combine to have made March a very special month indeed.

 

British Airways Introduces New Products, April 21 2002

British Airways continues to improve its aircraft and now offers passengers 4 classes of service - first class, club world, world traveler, and a fourth cabin, world traveler plus.
British Airways has recently invested 600 million pounds following extensive market research.

The new products, which set benchmarks for comfort and design include a new cabin - world traveler plus, offering more space and facilities than other economy products, as well as double hand baggage allowance. Other innovations include a 'lounge in the sky' featuring the world's first fully flat bed for business class travelers who need to work and sleep in private on long haul trips.

Kenya Still Suffering from Poaching, April 21, 2002

Kenyan authorities say they have deployed a crack anti-poaching squad to track down a gang that has killed 15 elephants in one of the country’s game reserves. The killings took place in the Samburu Game Reserve - just a few days after the slaughter of another 10 elephants in Tsavo Park.
 
Officials from the Kenya Wildlife Service said the gangs used AK-47 and G3 assault rifles in the Samburu killings and the poachers were now being pursued by a special unit trained to deal with sophisticated bandits in Kenya’s national parks.
 
Some of the killers were believed to have fled to the nearby district of Isiolo, while other members of the gang are believed to be still at large in the sprawling Samburu Park.
 
The killings come amid fears among local conservationists that poaching in Kenya is once again on the increase. They include Dr. Daphne Sheldrich who runs Africa’s only sanctuary for orphaned elephants outside Nairobi National Park and Mr. Victor Mutuma of the Kenya Wildlife Club, who noted: “We feel something needs to be done urgently. Something needs to be addressed.”
 
Wildlife officials say Kenya has for the past few years managed to maintain the level of its elephant population at around 30,000 and a new census is expected later this year.

Robin Pope Safaris Weekly Update, April 28 2002

Robin and Jo Pope run safaris in the beautiful southern Africa country of Zambia. Here is their weekly report:

The weather has been cooler of late. At the moment we are all putting that extra sheet or blanket on the bed as the mornings are suddenly chilly. Everything is just so clear and sparkling fresh and you can actually sit in the sun for a little while without feeling it burn right through your skin! And at night....just how many stars and planets are out there? It is so relaxing to sit by the campfire at night and gaze at the bright lights in the sky!

We have had quite a week on the wildlife viewing front! Yesterday morning we went on a delightful morning wildlife viewing drive. We departed at what I consider the very respectable Sunday morning hour of 8 AM and drove over the Luangwa Bridge into the Park. We soon came across large numbers of elephant, many with the largest tusks I had seen in the Valley for a long time! They were grazing happily on all the plentiful food and having a good old mudbath! We noticed many small groups of zebra looking intently at our vehicle from afar (they always look so curious) and, surprisingly, quite a lot of lone male impala with enormous horns! This is the time of year when 'rutting' occurs....when all the males start jockeying for breeding rights over the herd for the year.

It was lovely to see four kudu in the sun, two of which were quite young. Near the big baobab we suddenly came across two blacksmith plovers who were chirping at us rather loudly on the ground. Simon pointed out that they were protecting their nest and as I looked down I noticed a single egg lying in the dirt! The nest consisted of a slight depression in the ground for the egg to lie and not much else, offering little protection from anything heavy walking past! It is amazing that these beautiful birds get beyond the hatching stage! Birding enthusiasts will be pleased to know that all the migratory birds are still here, making this time of year all the more exciting. We saw a number of cuckoo on our drive yesterday. Our morning activity ended on the opposite bank to Nkwali where Marcus was waiting for us in the boat. Within 3 minutes we were back in camp and savoring the many delights prepared by the kitchen for lunch. A brilliant morning indeed!

This is usually a good time of year to spot wild dog, those rather elusive but beautiful canines.  Marcus was the wild dog king last week, with almost daily spotting’s on drives.  During one sighting he witnessed the dogs hunting.

Simon is also able to report another very exciting wild dog sighting, on par with his encounter last June. As you might know, just mention wild dog to Simon and he gets all excited!!  One morning last week Simon took Paul Joynson-Hicks, the photographer of our wonderful new brochure, out for one final wildlife viewing drive. At that point Paul had never seen a wild dog before and this was the last chance during his visit! Simon knew that they were in the area and about 15 minutes before they were due to return to camp a pack of 3 males and 1 female was found on the Mushalashi riverbed. They drove close and then Simon hopped out of the vehicle, crawling on his hands and knees towards them. Paul was crouching not very far behind, with camera in hand!  Two of the dogs surrounded Simon, looking on with amazing curiosity - ears pricked up - then sat down casually and continued to watch the humans. The other two dogs sat in pools of water not far away, rolling around and cooling off! Paul snapped away with his camera and had to return to the vehicle at one point for more film! Finally, the pack ran off to go on a hunt and Simon and Paul returned to camp beaming! 

Closer to home, the nocturnal activities of elephants have provided the camp staff some amusement this week. In the middle of the night a few bulls will take a walk through camp and sometimes take a nap against a termite mound or small incline in the ground. Marcus lives next to a small decline and is sometimes woken to the sounds (and smells) of elephant flatulence and stomach digestion whilst these bulls sleep only yards from his bed! Matthew and Sara awoke suddenly at 4 AM the other morning to the sound of a big bull elephant having a dream! He was trumpeting every so often, leading Matthew to leap out of bed and shine the torch around. Not far away he noticed the bull asleep with its head against a termite mound and the rest of its big body flat on the ground, twitching and 'yelping' like a pet dog does in its sleep! One wonders what elephants dream about…

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